• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.300-313
• /
• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권10호
• /
• pp.118-132
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권4호
• /
• pp.76-90
• /
• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제12권2호
• /
• pp.100-116
• /
• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.