• 대한인간공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한인간공학회 1998년도 춘계학술대회논문집
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• pp.7-12
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• 1998

쾌적한 의생활을 영위하기 위해, 인간의 제반 특성에 적합한 의복 설계에 관한 연구가 활발히 전개되고 있다. 기존 연구에서는 주로 인체 인자에 근거하여 의복 원형 연구가 이루어졌으나 인간 특성에 적합한 의복의 설계를 위해 인체 인자와 함께 의복 인자를 병행한 연구의 필요성이 대두되고 있다. 특히 의복 소재의 경우, 성유과학의 발달로 다양한 의복 소재가 개발되고 있음에도 불구하고 대부분의 의복 원형 연구에서는 광목으로 제한되어 연구가 행해지고 있는데, 광목이 원형 연구시 동작에 따른 체표 변화에 대응하기 위한 여유분으로 정확히 산출할 수 있다는 특징이 있기는 하지만 이로 인하여 의복 원형의 여유 분 설정에 소재의 특성에 따른 차이에 관해서는 아직 까지 많은 연구가 진행되지 못하였다. 이에 본 연구 에서는 최근 마른 체형의 선호와 함께 유행하고 있는 신축성 소재를 이용한 슬랙스 원형에 대하여 연구 하였다. 본 연구는 소재의 신장특성과 의복 설계와의 관계에 대한 기초 자료로써 활용될 수 있을 것이며, 또한 슬랙스 원형에 대한 연구를 보다 다양한 소재로 넓힘으로써 원형의 활용도를 높힐 수 있을 것으로 기대한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권7호
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• pp.1303-1313
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• 2001

This study was performed to develop a mobile functional pattern reflecting the characteristics of the middle aged women's lower body types based on the slacks construction components. The results and procedures obtained from this study were as follows; 1. The bodys measurement of the 252 middle aged women of 45∼59 years old were used to analyze the size and somato type. 2. For multiple analysis of the lower body types, horizontal and vertical section maps were obtained by sliding gauge method and extracted constructional factors of slacks. 3. The following condition was determined with both standing and moving position of body: (gradient of C.B.L/2)+3°and (back crotch extention)+2cm. 4. Development of new slacks pattern drafting was based on the result of data analysis. Trough the wearing test by the sensory evaluation, It showed that developed slacks pattern was judged better than existing patterns in items of comfort of comfort of silhouette and moving.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.149-160
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• 2019

Body fit should be the first point considered for satisfying the functionality of clothes and thus it is the most essential condition. Based on previous research, this article studied the basic slacks pattern with a high body fit using body measurement of adolescent boys. The purpose of this study is to propose basic data for the production of slacks. Research was performed on the physical measurements of adolescent boys from 13-18 years old obtained from the '6th Korean National Physical Standard Reports' by SIZEKOREA. First, six types of experimental slacks basic patterns were produced applying the average body sizes of adolescent boys. Second, a single slacks basic pattern was selected, which received the best response based on appearance from the clothing evaluators. Then, the slacks basic pattern for adolescent boys was finalized by modifying and amending the selected pattern with two more clothing experiments. The data analysis was performed using descriptive statistics, ANOVA, and t-test using the SPSS program. The results of this study have been obtained as follows. The modifications and adjustments were done based on Crotch, Thigh Circumference, waist circumference, and hip circumference.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.929-944
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze two original forms of slacks for thesis to extract outward appearance of design original form applying design measures of the above through diverse research methods. The results of this study are as follow: In original form F, the original form of slacks sloper suitable to elderly women 65~9 years old was W/4+3.5+0.5cm in the front/back circumference of waist, H/4cm in the front/back circumference of hip, (H/4+1+3.8)/2cm in the position of centerline, 19cm in actual measurement value of hip length, 25cm in actual measurement value of crotch depth, (knee crotch circumference~bottom line)/2+10cm and 90 (side waist dot~ lateral malleolus length)cm in actual measurement. front dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of front waist centerline and back dart position was 1/3 and 2/3 of back waist circumference. It was suggested that front dart quantity (length) was 3.5(11)cm, back dart quantity 3.4 (10.2)cm, side waist up quantity 0.7cm, back down quantity 1.5cm, front crotch width (H/4+1)/4-1cm, back crotch width (H/4+1)/4+4, front knee width 21.8cm, back knee width 24.4cm, front pant leg 20.8cm, and back pant leg 23.4cm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a individually fitted slacks pattern in order to help ourselves prepared for the days of the order-based production like the EC in the apparel industry. A pattern was designed to make the personal fit improved based on the present study and the analysis of the measurements and the body shapes. The main characteristics of this newly designed slacks pattern are as follows. To improve fitting, the pattern requires more detailed data such as front and back waist arc, front and back hip arc, hip depth, the gradient of hip. And for personal fitted pattern, knee girth was established in the proportion to the hip girth and the crotch curve was adjusted to the measurements after drawing and the side seam curve was changed according to the front hip type and the ease in waist and hip was established by the percentage. Slacks pattern was developed into an automatic drafting program. Through the sensory evaluation for the appearance and moving fitness, newly designed slacks pattern was turned out to be improved in personal fit espacially for the body type out of the average.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.396-405
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing condition according to different basic slacks'patterns and to provide fundamental data on structuring slacks' pattern using the multi-dimensional measuring method. 3 different kinds of basic slacks' patterns (A, B, C) were used and cross-sectional measurements of 6 parts were analysed. The results were as follows; 1) It revealed that the girth of waist, hip and thigh effected the degree of ease amounts. 2) Moira pattern shape fully supported that the considerable body parts affected the change of ease amounts. 3) Basic pattern A was usually expected to be suitable for standard-sized or unmarried women who had not experienced body-type change. 4) Basic pattern B and C were suitable for large-sized or married women whose body·type had changed. Therefore the crotch length and depth, gredient of center back line has to be set up accurately.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.289-299
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern for obesity women through comparing the flat pattern with the draping pattern. The results were as follows: 1. In the result of the comparative investigation on pattern and sensory evaluation, it was found that the draping pattern had better comfort and appearance. Especially, as the lower part of the body is more obese and the expansion ratio of the body is higher, the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation. 2. In the result of sensory evaluation, it was found that the proper ease of total crotch length was $2{\sim}3%$ of actual total crotch length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.23-36
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• 1987

The purpose of the suudy was to develop a computer program for pattern mating of women's pant's. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern mating. The VAX-11/750 Computer and the CALCOMP PLOTTER 965 were used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows : 1. A slacks pattern was selected. 2. The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in draffing. Total sixty co-ordinate points were instituted from (AX(1), AY(1)) to (AX(24), AY(24)), from (BX(1), BY(1)) to (BX(36), BY(36)). 3. A program for drafting was developed. Refer to (Table 3). 4. The procedures of drading of standard size were accomplished by using same method. The program was developed to drafting pattern for women by putting indivisual body measurement. The body measurements for stacks pattern were as follows : slacks length. Croach length. Hip length. nip circumference. waist circumference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.