• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1286-1298
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• 2008

This study was attempted to examine the indigo dyeing technique in the latter Joseon Dynasty, and to find diachronic specifics in the indigo dyeing method from 17C to 19C. The results are as follows: First, There were 2 kinds of indigo species-Yoram(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) and Sungram(Isatis tinctoria L.)-in the latter Joseon Dynasty. Dangram was preferred in particular among Yoram species because of its high dyeing efficiency. Sungram was mainly used for making Jeon(indigo sediment). Second, Yoram cultivation took the following order: Sowing in April${\rightarrow}$planting out in June${\rightarrow}$harvesting leaves in August${\rightarrow}$collecting seeds in September. Sungram had more harvesting times and wider harvesting period than Yoram. Third, all indigo dyeing methods were grouped into two categories, one was temporary dyeing method, the other was permanent dyeing method. Mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, raw leaves dyeing, and fermentation dyeing belonged to the temporary dyeing. Jeon dyeing and Gaeogi dyeing belonged to the permanent dyeing. Finally, diachronic specifics from 17C to 19C were as follows: Decline in the mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, development in the raw leaves dyeing, continuance of the fermentation dyeing, and naturalization of Jeon dyeing technique.