• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1723-1729
• /
• 2006

Drapability is an important factor determining the end-use of fabrics. In this research, characteristics of drapability of men's and women's suit fabrics were analyzed. The hand and the preference for suit fabrics were measured by the subjective and objective evaluations. To find out the details of the drapability characteristics of suit fabrics, the drape was measured by using Cusick drape tester and was processed by image analysis software. Seasonal difference was obvious both in men's and women's fabrics. The average drape ratio of women's S/S suit fabrics showed the highest value, 0.724, then decreased in the order of men's F/W> men's S/S> women's FW. Wave amplitude showed the same order to the drape ratio. Men's fabrics were more drapable in spring and summer season rather than in fall and winter season. Women's fabrics showed the opposite trend, in other words, S/S suit fabrics were less drapable than F/W fabrics. There was also a significant difference in drape ratio between men's and women's fabrics regardless of season. For S/S, men's fabrics were more drapable than women's ones, whereas, for F/W, women's fabrics were more drapable.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2003.11a
• /
• pp.1381-1385
• /
• 2003

본 연구에서는 이미지 분석기법으로부터 측정된 표면섬유과 가와바타 측정법에 의해 측정된 직물의 표면특성과 주관적 거칠기, 따뜻함간의 관계를 고찰하였다. 시료로는 춘추용 수트직물로 사용되는 평직과 능직의 소모직물 32종을 사용하였다. 표면섬유의 분석을 위해서 이미지 분석장치로부터 촬영된 직물 표면 이미지로부터 단위길이의 직물안에 들어가는 표면섬유의 총길이(Fiber Aggregate Length)가 측정되었다. 직물의 주관적 평가를 위해 일관성 테스트와 평가능력 향상 훈련을 마친 20명 패널을 대상으로 기준직물을 제시한 9 의미미분척도를 사용하여 직물의 거칠기와 따뜻함에 대해 평가하였다. 직물의 표면섬유와 주관적인 거칠기, 따뜻함간의 상관성이 분석되었고, 직물의 표면 특성, 표면섬유로부터 직물의 감각을 판별하는 판별식을 도출하였다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.2
• /
• pp.355-363
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1683-1689
• /
• 2006

Precedent researches on lyocell are mostly on lyocell structure, characteristics, physical properties by finishing and dyeability, and the like; there are little cases of researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. To serve as a base information helpful to select fusible interlining and improve the efficiency of sewing process considering the characteristics of lyocell, this study performed t-est, F-test toward to the difference in the appearance-related properties and the mechanical properties of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric in accordance with the characteristics of fusible interlining and lyocell face fabric. This study reached following conclusions. Drapability and Crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric are influenced by the structure of fusible interlining; stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, by the structure of fusible interlining and the yam number of lyocell face fabric. WT is influenced by the mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric. RT is influenced by the yam number of lyocell face fabric; G, 2HG, 2HG5, by the structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining; B, HB, by the weight, structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining, and yam number of lyocell face fabric; WC, by the weight, structure of fusible interlining; RC, by the structure of fusible interlining; thickness, by the weight of fusible interlining and the yarn number of lyocell face fabric; weight, by mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric.