• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.93-107
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• 2018

A questionnaire survey was conducted on male and female college students living in Busan in May 2015 to study customer types and purchasing behaviors based on the benefit sought from undergarments. This study used a total of 460 data reports collected from 203 male and 257 female college students. The results of this study were as follows. First, the undergarment benefits sought were divided into material and function, harmony of outerwear and underwear and design. Consumers were categorized into function seekers, brand and design seekers, and undergarment indifferent customers. In addition, while male college students were likely to be function seekers, female college students were mostly brand and design seekers. Second, both male and female respondents showcased significant differences in the undergarment benefits sought depending on their customer type. Based on the customer type, male college students showed a greater difference in the undergarment benefits they sought when compared to their female counterparts, and marked differences were found in male respondents' undergarment material and function factors and female respondents' harmony factor of outerwear and underwear. Based on their sex, a significant difference in the harmony factor of outerwear and undergarments was observed. Third, after examining the purchasing behavior influenced by the customer type, this study found that both male and female students had undergarment purchasing behavior differences depending on their customer type, while function seekers and design seekers were likely to exhibit similar behaviors in purchasing undergarments regardless of their sex, except for their preferred image and purchasing method of undergarments. However, among the indifferent group of customers, there were significant differences depending on their sex.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.75-85
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• 2005

This study analyzed the factors of change of women's underwear in the Renaissance, which had a sudden change of shape. First, the spirit of the Renaissance was focused on human-attached importance to glamorous beauty of the body and pursued the glamorous well-proportioned figure as the ideal of the human body. This expressed a woman's beautiful curved lines by reduction of their waist size and emphasis of breast and hip lines. It also created and emphasized one's physical figure, which is a characteristic of sex. Also the materials and size of underwear cleared up the classification of class. Second, through the development of weaving techniques, more textiles were produced, from linen, the most common material used, to silk in underwear and stomacher, and chemise, which was made more splendid be devising elaborate embroidery techniques. Third, as we know that the farthingale was devised in Spain and transmitted to France because of the prevalence of printing and trade, where it changed and developed to more convenient style, this shows that information interchange was active, and we can see the phenomenon that it is developing continually through the prevalence of printing and trade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.165-180
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• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.