• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.169-183
• /
• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
• /
• no.57
• /
• pp.41-66
• /
• 2014

The Purpose of this paper is, through the character-figuration aspect of existing Yeoheon Jang Hyungwang(旅軒 張顯光, 1554~1637)-related folk tales, to determine the relation between the people's awareness on Yeoheon and the change in the folk tales. Only 4 pieces of Yeoheon-related folk tales are existed ; ; Forgiving a rude son of the provincial governor generously. ; Predicting 'the frost of May' and Preventing the cold-weather damage, when he served as Euiseong governor, and ; The folk tales of origins of the place name - Chimabawi Rockand Yeoheondae. shows the great scholar's liberal-hearted and generous personality. One day Jang Hyungwang looked shabby and a young person was quite rude to him. But Jang Hyungwang forgive him generously. Also Yeoheon teach him the thrift and modesty. described him as a governor filled with a love for the people. He tried to edify the people with the Confucian ethics and improve the life's work of the people. embodied him as a government official of high integrity. When his wife received the silk slip from the people, as farewell gift, he ordered his wife return that. and show the images of the Predicting the future and an extraordinary moralizer. Generally These folk tales are based on his personality, whereabouts and the real case. So we could find his images in the folk tales are close to his actual feature - thrift, modest, noble-minded, well-versed in Iching and practicing moral statesmanship.