• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.575-584
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to develop the better fitting and more comfortable sleeve pattern for women's jacket, as the first step. Five types of existent sleeve pattern were collected, made and worn compared with the sensory evaluations method. The main results of this study were as follows 1. Sensory evaluation for appearance; According to the result of Duncan's multiple range test among the five sleeve patterns, TOJAIUN method sleeve was most satisfactory, and the next was the JUNGMYUNGJA method sleeve followed by NASAN, MOONWHA, ESMOD method sleeve. 2. Sensory evaluation for comfort; The result of Duncan's multiple range test showed that the ESMOD method sleeve was comfortable, and the next was the Japanese MOONWHA method sleeve followd by JUNGMYUNGJA, TOJAIVN, NASAN method sleeve. The result of 3-way ANOVA, main effect for 3 independent variables and interaction for pattern x part, posturers part showed significant difference.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.17-38
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• 2004

우루과이 라운드(UR)의 협상이 체결된 후 한국의 유통시장에서는 편의점, 할인점, 쇼핑센터, 무점포판매 등 다양한 소매업태가 생성되었고, 그러한 소매업태의 발전은 매출액, 종업원수, 매장면적의 증가율에서도 괄목할 만한 성장을 보이고 있다. 본 논문에서는 이러한 소매업태의 생성과 발전 과정에서 존재하고 있는 법칙을 찾는데에 초점을 맞춰 기존의 소매업태의 발전 이론의 논리적 특징과 전개방향을 검토하였다. 기존의 연구 성과를 검토한 결과, 1960년부터 최근에 이르기까지 소매업태 발전의 다양한 패턴을 설명하는 포괄적 이론을 제시하고 있지만 그러한 연구 결과는 개념적인 틀의 제시에 머물고 있고, 경험적 연구로의 발전을 보이고 있지 않았다. 그 이유에 대해서는 두 가지를 들 수 있다. 첫 번째, 소매업태에 대한 정의의 불명확함이다. 두 번째, 소매업태의 격 올림을 촉진시키는 내부 요인에 대해서는 논의하고 있지만, 격 올림한 소매업태가 시장에서 수용될 것인지에 대해서는 고려하지 않고 있다는 점이다. 따라서, 이 두 가지 연구 과제를 해결하는 것이 앞으로 소매업태의 생성·발전 이론을 체계화하는 데 관건이 될 것으로 생각된다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.585-598
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• 2017

Sports climbing requires more maximum body motion range than any other sport. This study examined what element affects the actions of sports climbers and suggest an ideal pattern archetype to maximize function based on motion. The theoretical background included abstracted elements influencing clothing design by researching the body type of sports climbers and the motion of sports climbing. Along with the characteristic of climbing wear, this study also conducted a comparative analysis of sleeve patterns for sports climbing wear and general sports jackets, abstracting comparative parts that influence sports climbing wear design. To develop the final research archetype, research was done on 107 sports climbers in their 20s-30s that selected the top 3 brands and collected patterns as well. A research archetype was selected based on 3-D virtual clothing and developed into 4 different patterns with different sleeve cap heights. Appearance evaluation and a motion functionality evaluation were then conducted in order to select a final research archetype adequate for sports climbing based on evaluation findings. In addition, this study identified aesthetical problems of the final research archetype produced based on functionality that could suggest an archetype for a climbing jacket that could be visually satisfying through appearance evaluations and motion functionality evaluations.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Computer Information Conference
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• 2021.07a
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• pp.295-296
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• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 저고리에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 저고리 디자인을 기본으로 하여 신한복 저고리 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통해 신한복 저고리 생산에 기본이 되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 한다. 연구에 사용된 프로그램은 CLO 3D와 DC Suite 5.1 프로그램이며, 분석에는 SPSS 26.0을 활용하였다. 1차 외관평가를 통해 낮게 평가된 부분을 수정하여 어깨폭, 소매길이, 소매통, 앞단의 겹침 분량에 대한 수정이 이루어졌다. 2차 외관평가결과 저고리길이, 소매길이, 밑단둘레에 대한 수정이 요구되었다. 최종 신한복 저고리 패턴은 앞면, 뒷면, 옆면의 모든 항목에서 4.60이상으로 높은 평가를 받았다. 개발된 신한복 저고리 패턴은 20대 전반 여성의 체형에 맞추어져 있고 소재에 대한 고려 없이 3D 시뮬레이션 상에서의 일반적인 Physical parameter값에 맞추어 제작되었다. 따라서 향후 발전된 연구에서는 소재별, 저고리의 길이별, 연령별 신한복 저고리 패턴에 대한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• Distribution Business Review
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• no.2
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• pp.93-104
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• 2002

Wal-Mart, Carrfour, Makro, Tesco, Costco... 언뜻 보기에는 세계적 유통업체의 순위를 나열한 것 같지만, 실은 국내 영업을 통해 이미 친숙해진 브랜드들이다. 국제화가 기업의 시장확장 전략의 하나라고는 하지만, 5-6년 새에 국내 유통 시장이 이러한 세계적 업체들의 각축장이 되었다는 사실은 여러 가지를 의미한다. 논의의 포커스는 먼저 이들 업체들이 진입하기 위한 충분 조건 즉, 국내 시장의 매력도에 맞춰질 수도 있고, 또 다른 시각에서는 왜 이러한 업체들이 시장확장을 해야만 했는가의 관점, 즉 필요조건에 포인트를 둘 수도 있다. 실제로 지금까지 진행된 소매 기업의 국제화 전개에 대한 논의는 대부분이 이와 같은 범주에서 양자를 모두 다루는 형태로 이루어졌다. 그러나, 국내 소매시장이 어떻게 국제화의 길을 걷게 되었는가를 살펴보는 본고는 후자인 필요조건 쪽 논의에 초점을 맞추고자한다.(중략)

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.