• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.3 s.109
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• pp.181-187
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• 2006

In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.147-152
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• 2005

선형파 이론에 의한 파랑스펙트럼 분포에 의해서는 30m 크기의 파랑은 현실적으로 거의 발생 불가능하다고 인식되어 왔다. 그러나 최근의 위성 영상을 이용한 조사에 의해 3주간의 기간 통안 25m 이상의 거대파가 10개 이상 관측됨에 따라 실해역에서 빈번히 마주칠 수 있는 현상임이 입증되었으며 이에 따라 지금까지 이유 불명으로 치부되어 왔던 많은 해양 재난이 거대파에 의해 발생했던 것으로 추정되고 있다. 거대파의 발생원인은 파군 형성과 관련한 파고분포 특성의 변화, 전파하는 파군의 비선형 공명간섭 통이 제기되고 있으나, 그 출현의 복잡성과 자료의 부족 등으로 아직 명확하게 해명되지 못하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 실해역에서 발생하는 거대파의 특성 및 선형 및 비선형이론에 근거한 거대파 발생 기구를 고찰하고 비선형 파랑전파를 모사할 수 있는 수치모형을 개발하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.222-227
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• 2007

Formation of freak waves is studied in deep water from transient wave packets propagating on current. Those waves are obtained by means of dispersive focusing. This process is investigated by solving both linear and nonlinear equations. The role of nonlinearity is emphasized in this interaction.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.1 s.117
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• pp.21-27
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• 2007

The wave load and its influence on the response of offshore structure have been well investigated through the statistical approach based on the linear theory. The linear approach has a limitation to apply the extreme condition such as extreme wave, which corresponds to extreme value of wave spectrum. The main topic of present study is to develop an efficient numerical method to predict wave load induced by extreme wave. As a numerical method, finite element method based on variational principle is adopted. The frequency-focusing method is applied to generate the extreme wave in the numerical wave tank. The wave load on the bottom mounted vertical cylinder is investigated. The hydroelastic response of the vertical cylinder is also investigated so as to compare the wave loads with the rigid body case in the extreme wave condition.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• v.1
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• pp.195-201
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• 2006

The wave load and its influence on the response of offshore structure have been well investigated through the statistical approach based on the linear theory. The linear approach has a limitation to apply the extreme condition such as freak wave, which corresponds to extreme value of wave spectrum. The main topic of present study is to develop an efficient numerical method to predict wave load induced by extreme wave. As a numerical method, finite element method based on variational principle is adopted. The frequency-focusing method is applied to generate the extreme wave in the numerical wave tank. The wave load on the bottom mounted vertical cylinder is investigated. The hydroelastic response of the vertical cylinder is also investigated so as to compare the wave loads with the rigid body case in the extreme wave condition.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.225-233
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• 1997

The nonlinear effects on the statistical properties of wave groups in terms of the average nomber of waves in a group and the mean number of waves in a high run is studied in this paper utilizing the complex envelope and total phase function, random variable transformation technique and perturbation method. It tures out that the phase distribution is modified significantly by nonlinearities and it show systematic excess of values near the mean phase and the corresponding symmetrical deficiency on both sides away from the mean. for the case of threshold crossing rate, it turns out that threshold crossing rate reaches its maxima just below the mean water level rather than zero and considerable amount of probability mass is shifted toward the larger values of water surface elevation as nonlinearity is getting profound. Furthermore, the mean waves in a high run associated with nonlinear wave are shown to have larger values than the linear counterpart. Similar trend can also be found in the average number of waves in a group.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.13 no.4 s.35
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• pp.159-168
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• 1999

부유식 파랑에너지 변환시스템(Oscillating Water Column)에 대한 해석은 입력파와 챔버, 챔버내 공기의 상호작용으로 인하여 어려움이 많다. 이 논문은 이와 같은 요소를 고려하면서도 쉽고 간편한 해석법을 제시한다. 파랑에너지에 의한 자가발전은 파랑에너지를 기계적 운동으로 변환하고 이를 전기에너지로 변환함으로써 가능하다. 본 논문은 파랑에너지에서 기계적 에너지로 변환하는 과정에 집중하여 그 부분의 성능을 해석한다. 단일 진동수 규칙파가 입력되었을 때에 파에 의하여 챔버의 상하운동이 선형적으로 발생하는 것으로 보며, 이 상하운동에 챔버내의 압력 영향을 고려하였다. 상하운동과 챔버내로 투과한 파, 그리고 챔버내 압력에 의해 발생되는 파에 의해 챔버내의 상대운동을 정하고, 그 상대 운동에 의한 공기의 압축 팽창과 온도상승을 근사적 열역학적 방정식으로 해석하였고 오리피스를 통한 유량을 결정하였다. 얻어진 식은 간단하면서도 관련요소의 영향을 전반적으로 표현한다. 결과에 따르면 고정식의 에너지 변환식은 부유식의 특별한 경우로서 파악되었다. 또한 고정식의 시스템을 그대로 부유식으로 바꿨을 때 그 변환효율은 적어지는 것으로 나타났다. 본 해석법은 계산이 간편하므로 설계단계에서 유용하게 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.503-509
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• 2014

In this study, a new concept perforated breakwater is proposed, which is having resonant channels. In the channel, perforated plate is installed for dissipating wave energy induced by flow separations. The breakwater has two advantages compared with conventional perforated breakwater having wave chamber with slotted walls. One is easy to control the target wave condition for dissipating wave energy, and the other is having the high structural safety because the structural members are not exposed to impact waves, directly. To evaluate wave reflection characteristics of the proposed breakwater, numerical experiment was carried out by using Galerkin's finite element model based on the linear potential theory. The results indicated that considerable energy dissipation occurs near the resonant period of channel, and wave reflection characteristics are affected by channel shape, location and opening ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.61-67
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• 2009

In this paper time series wave data which contain a freak wave is investigated. Various wave characteristics are compared between wave data with a freak wave and without. Among 24 hour wave data measured in the Yura Sea, two adjacent 30 min wave data with and without a freak wave are examined intensively. It is seen that the highest waves do not have the longest wave period. The wave period of the longest period waves is a little longer than the average wave period and much shorter than the significant wave period. Although the sea state is quite high, the Rayleigh distribution fits well to the probability of wave height. The characteristics of the wave spectra do not change much, but the nonlinearity increases for the wave data with a freak wave. The significant wave height without a freak wave is larger than that with a freak wave. Hence, the higher significant wave height does not always increase the probability of the occurrence of the freak waves.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2017.11a
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• pp.64-67
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• 2017

화물량이나 해상관광객 유입 확대 등 항만수요의 증가에 따른 대응으로 항만을 확장하거나 신규항만을 계획하게 된다. 우리나라 어항의 경우 경관이 수려하고 청정지역으로 분류되어 개발여지가 크다. 이중 감포항의 경우도 해상을 통한 연안 화물의 운송확장과 어항의 기능에서 연안항의 여건을 갖추고 경주와 연계한 해양 관광벨트를 구성하여 친수공간 조성, 송대말 등대 컨텐츠 사업 등 해양관광의 거점으로 도약하기 위한 집중개발을 추진 중에 있어서 종합적인 관점에서 항만확장을 검토할 필요가 있다. 본 연구는 추진 중인 항만확장과 관련하여 남측 및 동측의 항만확장안에 대해 선박의 통항안전 및 계류한계파고에 대한 항만 정온도 여부를 제 3세대 수치파랑 모형인 SWAN모형과 강비선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 적용한 불규칙파 Bouss-2D 모형을 적용하여 모형간 특성을 도출한 후 현재안과 각 대안별로 파랑반응특성을 비교분석하였다. 이에 대한 결과는 각 대안별로 장래 항만확장에 대한 기초자료로 활용될 수 있을 것이다.