• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.19
• /
• pp.65-73
• /
• 1992

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2002.06a
• /
• pp.39-41
• /
• 2002

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.08a
• /
• pp.334-335
• /
• 2004

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2003.09a
• /
• pp.87-90
• /
• 2003

본 연구는 조선시대 전기 15, 16세기에 있어서 조선의 사절과 일본사절간의 교류를 통하여 파생된 교역품 중, 일본으로부터의 수입품목의 변화양상을 고찰함으로써, 조선사회의 복식문화의 한 면을 밝히고자 한 것이다. 연구내용으로는 첫째, 양국사신 간에 이루어진 교역물과 그 특성에 관하여 검토하고, 둘째, 일본에서 수입된 교역품을 중심으로 교역품목의 변화를 파악한 후, 변화추이 및 그 원인에 관하여 살펴본다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.3
• /
• pp.155-170
• /
• 2001

This study is about investigation of the historical value of Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) and examination of the costumes of the Envoys from the Three Kingdoms drawn in the paintings above. Wanghoido(王會圖) is presumed to be painted around early 7th century. This is a colored picture on silk on which twenty-six Envoys from twenty-four Kingdoms are painted. Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) is presumed to be painted in the early 10th century. This is drawn on paper with only black brush line, no color. There are thirty-five Envoys from thirty-one Kingdoms in the painting. Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) are the important materials which are useful to understand the original Liangjlkgongdo(梁職貢圖). From the records about interchange of the Envoys in the early 6th century, the characters and costumes painted in Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖), the copy of the original Liangjikgongdo(梁職貢圖), get the reality. The Envoys from Koguryo(高句麗), Paekche(百濟), and Shilla(新羅) painted in the two paintings above are all wearing Jangyu or Yu(장유 or 유; an upper garment), Go(袴:trousers), Kwanmo(冠帽:headdress), Dae(帶뿔:belt), and Hwa(靴:shoes). But they differ in some aspects. For example, the shape of the Kwanmo(冠帽), hair style and patterns on the costumes, etc.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.826-834
• /
• 2003

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture and a phase of the cloths in the relationship of the Chosun dynasty, by considering the exported goods from the Chosun dynasty of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the Chosun dynasty-Japan relationship in the 15th and 16th. The research findings, by analyzing various literatures and related documents, follow. The research results are as follow. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. The imported goods were somok, peppers, drug-stuffs, gold, bronze, sulfur, etc. The exported goods were books and cloths, such as hemp cloths, cotton cloths, silk, etc. The majority of exported goods was cloths, particularly cotton cloths. Meanwhile, in the 15th and the 16th century, with expanding of active trade towards Japan, the amount of export increased rapidly. As a result of the increase of exporting cotton cloths, the raw cottons production was increased and cotton cloth manufacturing was developed. However, it also expanded a dual structure of cotton cloths between the cotton cloths for exports and the cotton cloths for domestic markets. This dual structure of cotton cloth was lead to the deterioration of cotton cloths and had an effect on the price increases of domestic markets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.4
• /
• pp.65-73
• /
• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.27
• /
• pp.103-119
• /
• 1996

From Yan Chikgong-do the first picture of the envoy to the pictures of the age of Unified Shilla the traces of Korean envoys were found and they habe been continually found in the pictures of China Japan and Central Asia. The traditional Korean basic clothing which the envoys were in yang Chikgong-do has changed with the age. Korean envoys wore their thraditional cloth-ing to show their dignity whenever they went abroad. They have adapted themselves to the change of history and diplomatic policies However they could express their indentities as Korean people in Hanba-do by enshrining national features that is wearing the tra-ditional Korean clothing. From this study is can be concluded that traditional style of Korean clothing has continued in spite of be-ing under the influence of the foreign style of clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.541-550
• /
• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.183-199
• /
• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.