• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 제29회 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.34-34
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• 2004

1903년에 설립된 오스트리아 빈공방은 총체개념을 가진 호프만(Josef Hoffman)을 중심으로 1910년경부터 직물파트를 설립하여 왕성한 활동을 하였다. 빈공방 직물디자인을 3단계로 나누어 그 조형성과 영향관계를 살펴보면 1기는 1903년부터 1910년까지로 핵심인물인 모저와 호프만은 세세션과 맥킨토시의 기하차적인 성향과 일본미술의 양식과 모티브에 영향을 받아 자연형태를 기하학적으로 양식화하여 간결한 문양디자인을 하였다. (중략)

• 복식
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• 제54권7호
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• pp.121-134
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• 2004

Wiener Werkstaette(workshop) established in 1903 was an artistic handicraft working group, the central figure of which was an architecture, J. Hoffman. Especially its textile design part established in 1910 produced good results. The textile design part of Wiener Werkstaette took total artwork (Gesamtkunstwerke), which Pursued artistic work in all visual parts of life, as a central concept of their work and tried to insert the artistic creativity into the textile design. Regarding the influence relationship between Wiener Werkstaette textile design and formative art, it was influenced by the geometric tendency of C.R. Mackintosh and the style and motive of Japanese art. From 1910's, bright, vivid and cheerful designs were mass-produced by uniquely using various motives, techniques and colors. The formative significance of Wiener Werkstaette textile design are as follows. Firstly, the pattern includes both rational and sensual elements. Secondly, the aesthetic patterns of Wiener Werkstaette include formative elements anticipating the modernism. The leading artistic sense like this played role of catalyzer through which the golden age of artistic decoration, art deco, came. The significance of the textile was made aware through clothes design . The clothes design made with Wiener Werkstaette textile conveyed message as art to everyone and provided the elite of society supporting them with Proud that they are fashion leader ahead of times and have artistic sense. Wiener Werkstaette textile design like this played big role as an instrument for realizing the total artwork by attaining the new artistic formative fruits.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.115-123
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• 2016

In the turn of the twentieth century, Vienna emerged as a great cultural centre that stood at the forefront of developments in music, psychology, and the natural sciences. Equally influential, and still tremendously popular today, are the designs of the Wiener $Werkst{\ddot{a}}tte$ a group that was at the heart of the city's cultural scene and whose collaborators included such luminaries as the architect Josef Hoffman and the designer Koloman Moser under the slogan of Gesamtkunstwerk. The term "Gesamtkunstwerk" was introduced in the romantic period. It describes the desire for and practice of combining various art forms into a whole, such as performances that combine text, visual arts, various design and architecture. Richard Wagner was one of the early theorists of the concept, inspiring many modernist artists. As a co-founder of the Wiener $Werkst{\ddot{a}}tte$, Josef Hoffmann had a decisive influence on modern Viennese architecture and Interior design on the basis of the concept of Gesamtkunstwerk. In this view point, this study is to analyze about the generative background and design characteristics of gesamtkunstwerk advocated Wiener $Werkst{\ddot{a}}tte$. Josef Hoffmann was by all accounts a very successful architect and Interior designer in Vienna. His influence would undoubtedly have been felt simply because of his talent and energy. His special ability to range across multiple domains, coupled with a willingness to collaborate with other artists has created a synthesis and synergy that is compelling to this day.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.280-291
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제41호
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• pp.187-209
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• 2010

본 논문은 1763년 계미사행(癸未使行) 중 의원필담집(醫員筆談集)인 키타야마 쇼우[北山彰]의 "계단앵명(?壇?鳴)"과 야마다 세이친[山田正珍]의 "상한필어(桑韓筆語)"와 이 빈케이[(井敏卿]의 "송암필어(松菴筆語)"를 연구 대상으로 삼아 18세기에 의원을 포함한 조일(朝日) 지식인들의 소통 방식 및 대립과 갈등, 교류와 협력의 상황을 확인하는 데 그 목적이 있다. 그들은 미지(未知)와의 조우를 통해 나누고, 시문(詩文)을 창화(唱和)했으며, 해부학 등 당시 서양의학에 눈뜬 일본의 상황을 가늠해보기도 했다. 또한 각 나라의 풍습을 접하고 비교하는 기회를 가졌으며, 아울러 한글에 대한 일본인의 증폭된 관심을 확인할 수 있다. 대립과 갈등은 주로 두 나라의 역사 인식과 학술적 차원의 관점 차이에서 비롯되었는데, 특히 당시 일본의 고학(古學)적 학풍이 여기에 상당한 영향을 끼쳤다고 할 수 있다. 따라서 금고문(今古文) 논쟁이나 두 나라의 음악 비교, 일본 신공황후(神功皇后)의 삼한(三韓) 정벌설 및 오규 소라이[荻生?徠]와 다자이 준[太宰純]의 학문에 대한 논쟁 등으로 상호 날선 공방이 오고갔다. 다만 간과하지 말아야 할 것은 이 중에는 한문에 의한 필담이란 제한 때문에 빚어진 상호 오해도 존재한다는 점이다. 교류와 협력은 전문 지식과 기술을 지닌 의원들을 중심으로 인삼 제법(製法)이나 질병의 치료 방법을 확인하는 절차로 구체화되었다. 또한 일본에서의 서적 구입 방법 문의 및 실제 치료 등을 통해 양국 우호의 분위기를 연장시켜 나갔다고 볼 수 있다. 결국 이들 사이에는 간혹 오해와 불신도 있었지만, 양국의 인사들은 한문이란 동아시아 공통문자를 통해 소통했고, 심도 있는 정보와 의견을 교환했다.