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A Study on Manufacturing Techniques and Conservation Treatment for Yongjam, Ceremonial Hairpin with a Dragon-shaped Engraving in 17th Century - Focusing on Yongjam of the Clothes Worn by Oejae Yi Dan-ha and His wife, National Folklore Cultural Heritage No.4 - (17세기 대례용 용잠의 제작기법 조사와 보존처리 - 국가민속문화재 제4호 외재 이단하 내외옷 용잠을 중심으로 -)

  • Ryu, Dongwan;An, Boyeon;Lee, Ryangmi;Lee, Jaesung;Park, Yeonghwan;You, Harim
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.37 no.3
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    • pp.270-281
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    • 2021
  • The Yongjam of Oejae, Yi Dan-ha's wife, is an ornamental hairpin with a dragon-shaped engraving; designated as National Folklore Cultural Heritage No. 4. It is also a component of the ceremonial costume, and an artifact of great value as it clearly identifies the position of the wearer and the period of this artifact. The Yongjam has been well preserved in general; however, various pollutants and corrosive products have affected the engraved patterns, requiring conservation treatment. Furthermore, a non-destructive analysis was conducted to identify the components of the materials and the manufacturing techniques used in the ornament. The Yongjam is hollow inside to reduce its weight when placed in the hair and has a color contrast of gold, red, and black. The decorative part and the body were made separately. That is, the body was made from an alloy of copper, silver, and zinc, and its joint was elaborately connected without any overlaps. In the decorative part, different alloy ratios were identified in the dragon's face, beard, horn, body, and fin. Further, for the dragon's face with its delicate patterns, an alloy of silver and copper was used, likely to make the face appear as realistic as possible.

Study on Women's Hair adornments of the Period of the Three Kingdoms (삼국시대 여자 머리장신구 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Yim, Lynn;Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.16 no.5
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    • pp.698-705
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    • 2014
  • This study classifies features of women's hair adornments with the functional and decorative aspects in the Three Kingdoms Period and analyses in regards to their contemporary social and cultural surroundings. First, the tree-shaped and Rod-like hairpins in the Three Kingdoms Period are not as similar as to the hairpins found in China or other northern countries. It is farming lives and the wood-worship religion established the wearing of high-bun hair styles and tree-shaped hairpins. Second, high-bun hair styles and -shaped hairpins were basic hair decorations during the Three Kingdoms Period. Common high-bun styles finally became one of the cultures that reflected the contemporary thinking. High-bun hair styles, not excessively-decorated, became harmonized with the costume beauty and later developed along with with various-shaped hairpins. Third, Buyao (made of metals and based on flower subjects)in the Three Kingdoms Period was a unique style not been seen in the Han and Wei-jin-nam-bei-chao Period. Flowers in Buyao of the of the Three Kingdoms Period show an elegant sway, which is not excessively-decorated that developed into unique features.

Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰)

  • LEE Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.