• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.464-484
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• 2020

This study examined obese women with a BMI index over than 25 kg/㎡ in their 20s and 30s regarding the right fit for wearing a blouse. In comparison with three types of existing educational patterns, the first educational pattern experimental clothing was produced in dimensions of three study participants selected by the existing pattern to evaluate the fit suitability conducted for groups of study participants and expert groups. Experimental patterns were designed based on educational pattern C, which was the best fit as a result of the fitting evaluation. The main modification items include front bust circumference, hip circumference, back interscye, scye depth, shoulder length, blouse length, bottom line shape, upper arm circumference, wrist circumference, sleeve length and collar size. The design preferences for obese women were reflected in pattern modification; in addition, the final experimental pattern was designed by adding or subtracting margins and dimensions based on the results of the visual matching assessment by study subjects and expert groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.187-199
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• 2009

Recently, the quality and design of the children's wear is being improved remarkably. Following the trend, the need for the research on the pattern making of children's wear is growing. At first, we tried to find out how the industry is doing the pattern making job through interview. Results are as follows. The target age ranges from 5 to 11 years old. For the sample size of pattern making, 7 years of age is preferred. It is not usual to develop the design pattern from the bodice block pattern. Instead, they use middle block pattern for each item, such as blouse, shirt, pants, skirt or jacket. Starting from these middle block pattern, they prepare individual designs. With the results, the aim of the research became to develop one of most frequently used middle block pattern. The blouse block pattern was selected for that purpose. To look into the existing patterns, we selected 4 methods, i.e. NM-method, T-method, O-method, E-methods. Theses patterns were compared through wearing test for the evaluation of comfort and fit using trial garments. The results indicated the NM-method was best among them. Specially waist line position, shoulder shape and size allowance was adequate. Alteration and adjustment of pattern draft was made onto the NM-method. Allowances for the bust circumference, across chest, across back and depth of arm was adjusted for better comfort as well as fine fit. Sidelines of the bodice and the underarm seam of the sleeves were curved for styling. After another wearing test, the final pattern was suggested as a blouse block pattern for 7 years old girl.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.997-1005
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide the available date to improve the uniform e of the woman employee of the department more aesthetical and functional on the base of the former studies on their situation of uniform wearing. The process of the study was to compare and evaluate the studied uniforms made of elastic material with the one two times after pattern amendment. The nine subjects composed of threes of 20s, 30s and 40s of age and the evaluators were 5 clothing experts. The 5 scored scale of sensory evaluation method was used to evaluate the appearance and the moving function. The data were analysed with mean and t-test. The results were as flowers: 1.The material of blouse was changed with Poly-span to improve the appearance and the moving function. 2.The new uniform got far more good evaluations in the appearance and the moving function showing the significant difference in p<.001 level. 3.The improved uniform blouse pattern was presented fig2 and fig3.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.860-868
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• 2009

To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group $20{\sim}49$ years, and the size increments including $155\sim165$ of height section and $79\sim94$ of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.