• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.45-57
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• 2002

21th century is evolving from physical to brain-oriented society, and from class oriented society to network society. In the midst of it, bobos is the new enlightened elite group. In depth analyzationon of the beat generation from the 1950's and hippies from the 1960's, which had influenced the bobos, were done to study on such new and core elite group. According to the research, the emerging of bobos was originated and created from the long gone conflict between the beat and bourgeois, and the hippie and the conservative. And this mixed culture of both free-spirited hippie and materialistic yuppies from the 80's is rapidly growing, and they are easily seem from various commercial advertisements, accessories and fashion designs. In addition, the bobo's were targeted by the main designers, and expressed through bohemian luxury and romantic hippie mood. Naive and childish floral prints, paisley prints that were influenced by the hippies, the hair styles from the 80's and washed denims were seen at the collections. However, the symbolism of the 60's defiant fashion styles seem to fade away but remains only as a style. The comparison and analyzation between the fashion of bobos, hidden meaning of those defiant fashion styles and the aesthetics of it are arranged in the following conclusions.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.75-87
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• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권34호
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• pp.197-217
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• 2014

20세기 20~30년대는 중국만화가 제일 번영된 때이고 중국 만화의 "황금시기"이다. 중국의 근대만화는 외세에 의하여 정서불안과 전쟁 등으로 풍자만화가 유행하였고 그중 많은 인기작품들 중에서 영화와 드라마로 제작된 20년대의 <왕 선생>과 30년대의 <삼모 유랑기>를 선택하여 분석하였다. II장에서 20~30년대 중국 민국시기 영화, 소설, 잡지, 패션 등의 소비문화가 확대되었지만 그 중, 통속성과 대중성으로 인기를 끌었던 만화잡지의 역사, 30년대 만화 간행물 등의 만화 "황금시기"에 대하여 역사적인 고찰을 하였다. III장에서는 5.4운동이후 사회 풍자유머만화가 유행하였고 20년대 반제반봉건주의의 내용에서 현실생활화 되었고 사회의 부정적인 면을 묘사한 작품들이 유행하였다. 그 중 작가 엽천여는 <왕 선생>을 통하여 소시민의 일상생활, 관료의 부패, 노동인민에 대한 동정 등의 상해에 대하여 묘사하였고 장락평의 <삼모 유랑기>는 힘없고 불쌍한 고아를 통하여 상해의 부르주아와 프롤레타리아의 불공평한 사회제도, 빈부격차에 대하여 묘사하였다. <왕 선생>은 도덕적인 면에서 <삼모 유랑기>는 경제적인 면에서 현실에 대하여 객관적이면서 익살스럽고 우스꽝스럽게 반영하였다는 것을 알 수 있다. 연구자가 <왕 선생>과 <삼모 유랑기>를 선택하게 된 이유는 하나의 좋은 만화, 좋은 애니메이션 심지어 좋은 영화는 우리 주변에 대한 느낌에서 오는 감정을 자극하기 때문에 친근감을 느끼게 하며 익숙한 내용을 다룬 두 작품을 선택하게 되었다.