• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.117-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present a classification system of the hand-made and machine-made lace according to the configuration method and re-make the category and definition of lace to consider the emergence and development of major laces techniques. The re-made category and definition of the lace is as follows. The lace usually consists of ground and motifs, however, the techniques of netting and sprang are suitable for making ground than motif, so I think it is appropriate to exclude them from the category of the lace. Many scholars are excluded openwork embroidery fabric from the category of the lace. But, an openwork embroidery fabric is the basis of a needle point lace called true lace and is consist of motif and ground. I think it is appropriate to include it in the category of the lace. I think it is also appropriate to include in the category of the lace that the eyelet embroidery fabric which mimics the openwork embroidery fabric in the machine. Lace is redefined that a fabric with openwork decoration consists of motif and ground, constructed by a variety of ways such as plaiting, twisting, looping, knotting of threads or embroidering by hand or machine. The classification of the lace is presented as follows. Hand-made lace is classified bobbin lace, needle point lace, embroidery lace, knotted lace, crochet lace, and knitting lace. Machine-made lace is classified raschel lace, leaver lace, torchon lace, and machine-made embroidery laces which include tool lace, eyelet embroidery lace, chemical lace, etc.