• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.6
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• pp.140-149
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• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.31-42
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• 2008

The fashion of the 19C had been through many diverse styles, i.e. Empire style, Romantic style, Crinoline style and the Bustle style. These styles had emphasized a certain figures, such as exaggerated hourglass silhouette of crinoline style or S silhouette of bustle style. Following the trends, corsets became more than underwears. Actually they supported the fashion of the 19C. Apparently, the corsets had been evolved in many aspects. Patterns, materials and trimmings were developed and refined to make torso figures desirable. The initial purpose of the research is to find out how they developed corset patterns to make such a diverse figures, so that the techniques can be adopted in contemporary pattern design. The 16 corsets and their patterns were quoted from books related the subject. The patterns were redrawn of same scale for the comparative study concerning cutting lines and measurements. Coming to the late, more curved lines and more segmented cutting were used to make body more of glamour and natural. Gussets were another key technique to make them work. Various sized and shaped gussets were used to follow the trends of ever changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.161-176
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• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.80-88
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• 2006

This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.76-92
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to find the meaning of women's fashion in the city culture of Paris in the nineteenth century by examining paintings by the Impressionists. The research method was based on literature survey and visual examination paintings, 224 paintings(by ${\acute{E}}douard$ Manet, James Tissot, Edgar DeGas, Gustave Cailleboat, Jean $B{\acute{e}}raud$, Pierre-Auguste Renoir) were analyzed in this study. The results are as follows: In the nineteenth century, Paris was a new city with new department stores. Department stores were centers of consumer culture, where the power of capital appeared rather than class. The spatial backgrounds of Impressionist paintings were places where they could see the consumption and leisure culture of urban people, such as outdoor parks, cafes, theaters, ballrooms, bars, streets, and the boats. As for the characteristics of women's fashion in paintings, it was found that various changes of artificial silhouettes were developed. Various frills, ruffles, gatherings, and pleats were thought to have been made by machines. In the urban space, many of the women's costumes stood out because of the black color. Not only the black color came to represent widows and mourning but the black outfits worn by women enhanced their sensual appearances. Women's fashion expressed in Impressionist paintings eventually contained a modern meaning that changed from 'class symbol' to 'expression of taste'. And the symbol of consumer and leisure culture showed, and a Demimonde's fashion became a trendsetter, and painters were used as an important element expressing modernity.