• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제28권
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• pp.128-162
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• 1995

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.188-208
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• 2013

This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.808-820
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• 2008

The costume of Islam cultural area has been affected by the strict social structure, formed by religion, and traditional costume of Islam has been maintained up to these days under the influence of religion. Islam Traditional Costume, which is the succession of the traditional costume of southwest Asia region, became armed with the form of closed costume due to the chastity and oppression. There are figurative features of Islam Folk Costume; first, the dimensional form due to the ampleness, covering the body, second, the reinforcement of closed form such as chador and burqa, third, the symbolism such as the adornment or incantational ornament, which has been inherited from the former times of Islam era, fourth, the color, simplified with black and white. The aesthetic values of Islam folk costume are represented with 'The beauty of abstinency', suppressing the ornamentation and color, caused by the strict social atmosphere under the influence of the form of traditional costume and religion, 'The beauty of concealment' due to the closeness, with affluent costume forms, covering the body and even concealing the face, and 'The beauty of symbol' which is demonstrated with incantational ornamentation of face and interior decoration. In some nations amongst Islam nations, the wearing of hijab is strictly regulated but black chador and burqa are regarded as negative symbols, representing the closeness and oppression of Islam. It is the product of Orientalism from the western perspective. The Islam Hijab culture is the symbol of oppression towards women, but, on the other hand, it is the device to protect women and the traditional culture, symbolizing the identity.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.137-150
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• 2009

Performance costumes are an important element in the stages which set the tones and embody characters in the performances. This study focuses on Gisaeng's costumes in folk dance performances when Korea experienced modernization from Joseon Dynasty, and aims to examine the features of the costumes as well as how the costumes both influenced, and got influenced by, the rapidly changing society. Gisaeng had been legal entertainment performers of the government in the Joseon Dynasty and, despite careful training and talents, had inferior social status in Joseon's social hierarchy system. In the modern society, a new system of Gisaeng emerged and the first public theater opened. The advent of theaters changed performance stages and the ways performances are conducted. This study investigated Gisaeng's performance costumes by the type of folk dances, such as monk dance, palace dance, Salfuri dance, Jangu dance, and Ip dance. The study brings light to three conclusions. First, as folk dances which had been performed by civil dancers were spread to Gisaeng, Gisaeng's costumes absorbed the costumes of civil dancers. Also, royal costumes appeared in folk dance performances. This can be viewed as mixture of royal and folk dance costumes, resulted from interactions between Gisaeng and civil art performers associated with the modernizing society and the weakening of the old hierarchical class system. Second, as performing arts on stages were modernizing, performance costumes changed accordingly. Thirdly, Giseang's costumes in folk dances also adapted the introduction of the western culture, which largely influenced the fashion trends of people in the early modern society in Korea.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.59-71
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• 2006

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.48-66
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• 2019

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the similarities between religious costumes and Kazakh and Tajik minority women's costumes in the Chinese northwestern minority population that believes in both Islam and Shamanism. The research was conducted by investigating the forms, colors, and patterns of 240 representative costume pieces and making quantitative comparisons between religious and traditional costumes. The results showed that the Kazakh and Tajik costumes were similarly formed, both intended to cover the human body. Both the Islamic and traditional headdresses were also similarly shaped. In terms of color, black, white, green, and blue were found frequently in the Islamic religious costumes, as were red and yellow. Red, white, and brown, ascribed to the colors of shamanism, signifying incantations, were also frequent, indicating that this was engrained in their lives. A review of the traditional costumes revealed the patterns of Islam. Plants, geometry, abstraction, and letter patterns were dominant, whereas the meaning of the Islamic patterns, rebirth, sun, life, and hope, influenced the traditional costume patterns. Patterns associated with incantations, like the animal horns shown in the shamanism religious costumes, were persistently observed even after the people were converted to Islam. This study on the similarities between religious and traditional costumes in the Chinese minority might help us understand the connection between religious and traditional costumes and elucidate the cultural costume transition process.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• 복식
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• 제50권3호
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• pp.105-116
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• 2000

In the middle of the 20th century the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district were very similar to those of high officials. A bridegroom out on blue DanRyoung, Samo, official belt, buckskin and two cranes figured Hyoongbae which high-ranking officials wore, A bride put green Wonsam and Chonkduri on her hair, The color and cloth of Chogori, Chima and underwear showed wedding practice in those days on which a daughter-in-law should endure a hard married life. It reflects the Confucian ideas and a patriarch society. This paper studies on the substantive reason they wore the traditional wedding costumes in Chungchung district is not thoroughly considered in a folkloristic respect. The traditional wedding culture that a bridegroom and a bride wore a formal suit can be a good instance which showed us their desire for social status of the upper class. The wedding practices were performed in order to get rid of an omen and keep a good their fortune.