• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.34-49
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• 2011

This study is the design case analysis of seamless knitwear in order to suggest a new direction of high value-added seamless knitwear and seek for its possibility. Seamless knitwear is the up-to-date knit product that is made by a knitting machine without sewing, and it maintains elasticity of a material itself and is the closest type to the essence of knitwear. The seamless knitwear can satisfy satisfaction of customers with more elegance and individuality and become a method to develop a high value-added design. This study suggests a new direction for the 21st century knitwear design through a practical approach of seamless knitwear designs, pursues a high value fashion, and contributes to improving national competitiveness of fashion industries in order to be a practical research data for seamless knitwear designs.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.53-55
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• 2004

우리나라 니트 산업은 노동력, 자본, 범용 적인 차용기술, 원자재 등의 생산요소에서 원가절감을 통한 경쟁력의 이점을 추구하던 시기는 이미 지나 최근에는 중국의 중저가품 위주의 니트 제품들이 대량 유입되는 추세를 보이고 있다. 생산현장의 인력부족과 인건비 상승, 고유 기술 개발 미흡, 국제 원자재 의존성 등의 이유로 이미 대 선진국 수출에서 비가격 부문의 경쟁력을 상실한 국내 니트 업계는 선진국들의 니트 제품과의 가격 경쟁력까지 상실해 가고 있는 것이 현실이다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.769-779
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance aesthetic aspect and wearing satisfaction. For this study, four kinds of seamless knit one-pieces were implemented by different knitting method of waist dart each other. The inspection of the exterior and the sensory test of movement adaptability were included in this study. The results of this study were listed below. Exterior evaluation of the four samples results that the sample with outside narrowing and widening get low grade. Thus, we can see that the method having only outside narrowing and widening for waist shaping can cause problems. In addition to that, the sample with inside narrowing and widening get highest grade for almost all test items. The dressing evaluation results that the knitting method of waist dart affect only on the exterior but not on the movement adaptability of the seamless knit one-piece.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1059-1067
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• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.465-475
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• 2010

For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. Samples differed from each other by skirt angles($90^{\circ}$, $180^{\circ}$), gauges(7G, 12G, 15G), and grain directions(bias direction, wale direction, and radial direction). After measuring the mechanical properties of various gauges on the seamless knitting machine, I compared shape of the knitted flare skirt through subjective evaluation on appearances. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, Duncan-test, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The subjective evaluation on appearances of knitted flare skirts showed the following: In case of $90^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless skirt showed a much higher score in every gauge expect that of the cut and sew 12G, and silhouette of 15G wale direction. In case of the $180^{\circ}$ skirt, the seamless type showed a much higher score in every item over the cut and sew expect the silhouette part of 7G wale direction.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.69-79
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• 2019

This study aims to seek knitting methods that can enhance the neck design of seamless knitwear and to find out how to improve the designs by comparing and analyzing the characteristics of the knitting methods used for v-neck pullovers. The investigator analyzed the characteristics of the knitting methods and assessed the wearing sensation by using six different pieces of clothing for the experiment. The results were analyzed based on a variance analysis (ANOVA). Among the items showing significant results, the Duncan-test was used for more intensive research. As a result, while using the basic pattern of knitting methods, Experiment Clothes A ended up binding on the back neckline, and not making the hem of back. Also, the neck was the widest. In the case of the special neck, Experimental Clothes B (1:1), which had the least number of the knitting course in relation to the knitting ratio, the bottom part of the back body had the most wrinkles. According to the result of wearing sensation, the front part, the side part, and the back part showed similar results (p<0.000) in all items. Specifically, the appearance of the Experiment Clothes A (normal) in both the front and rear aspects were evaluated as the best. In the case of the special neck, the Experimental Clothes F was ranked the highest, whereas the Experimental Clothes B (1:1) was ranked the lowest. Based on the results of the study, it seems possible to provide concrete and technical data for the planning of unique and productive designs. With regard to seamless knitwear neck designs, a comparative analysis of the knitting method of v-neck pullovers will be of practical use in the development and manufacturing of the product.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.113-125
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• 2012

This study, as one on the neck design of seamless knitwears, set out to make experimental clothes applying various knitting methods to the hem of round neck, seek the knitting methods of finishing touches on the ending part of round neck to enhance function and aesthetic appreciation through measuring tensile strength and assessing wearing sensation, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to developing the design of seamless knitwears and mass production in the national knit industry. The ending part of neck of the seamless knitwear is not only the last stage in making knitwear but also affects the function and appearance of the clothes. The investigator, thus made six different pieces of experimental clothes according to the finishing methods of knitting on the neck, then measured tensile strength and put them to the test by a group of experts for the assessment of wearing sensation. The results were analyzed based on variance analysis(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results of measuring tensile strength, Experimental Clothes B received the highest evaluation, Experimental Clothes E the lowest. Also Experimental Clothes B was ranked the highest in almost every evaluation criteria, whereas Experimental Clothes E was ranked the lowest in the assessment of wearing sensation.