• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1060-1068
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• 1998

The effects of various catalysts and softners on the anti-crease finish of ramie with glyoxal were investigated. A number of metal salts commonly used as Lewis acid catalysts in DP finishing of cotton with formaldehyde and N-methylol agents were screened for glyoxal treatment of ramie fabric. Various organic and inorganic acids were mixed with Lewis acid catalyst as co-catalysts to improve catalytic activity. As a result, the combination of aluminum sulfate and citric acid was proven highly effective in catalyzing the crosslinking of ramie cellulose by glyoxal under lower curing temperature. With a mixed catalyst, performance properties, such as whiteness and tearing strength as well as wrinkle recovery of treated ramie fabric were improved as compared with that treated with aluminum sulfate alone. Additional improvement of tearing strength and wrinkle recovery was achieved by applying silicons softner in the treatment bath.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.11a
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.122-147
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• 2012

The Four-guardian statues in Song-gwang buddhist temple, Suncheon, Korea, have been remade in AD 1628 and have been repaired and repainted over several times since then. Therefore, the study of the pigments applied on the statues can provide good chance for investigation about pigments used in the late Chosun Period. Pigments on fragments from Gwang-mok(Virupaksha), one of the Four-guardian statues, have been analyzed by optical microscope, SEM-EDX and XRD in order to identify the components and compounds. Six types of materials were found from the fragments, which are soil layer with brown clay band, soil layer containing a lot of fibers, Korean paper with loose texture, Korean paper with dense texture, silk, and hemp textile. Presumably, the soil layer which have brown clay band is basis layer and the other layers are repaired layers. From comparative study for the components of the pigments, applied on upper and lower parts of the repaired layers, we have concluded that those repaired layers had been applied on the statue by the following order; basis layer ${\rightarrow}$ Korean paper with loose texture ${\rightarrow}$ soil containing a lot of fibers ${\rightarrow}$ silk ${\rightarrow}$ hemp textile and Korean paper with dense texture. In addition, the years that those materials were applied on the statue have been estimated as 1720~1891, 1926, 1946 and 1976, respectively. The distinct features of each age are as the following; lead white and copper chloride hydroxide are major white and green pigments before 1891, zinc white, barium white, emerald green, and ultramarine blue appear after 1926 and titanium white uprises around 1976. Our result presented here, study on pigments applied on traditional statues over several different periods, will provide good database for future study on pigments used for traditional painting in Buddist temples and Dancheong.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.160-165
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• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.367-372
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• 2001

Five kinds of commercial ramie and hemp fabrics were treated with cellulase under different concentrations. Samples were mercerized before enzyme treatment to investigate the effect of mercerization on cellulase enzyme treatment. Physical characteristics(weight loss, tear strength retention, wrinkle recovery, drape stiffness, dyeability) of cellulase enzyme treated and untreated samples were measured and compared. X-ray diffractions were examined to verify if there were any changes in their crystallinity of enzyme treated fabrics. Weight loss, wrinkle recovery and degree of crystallinity increased as the concentration of cellulase enzyme increased. In the meanwhile, tear strength retention and drape stiffness and dyeability decreased. Enzyme activity was more effective on mercerized samples. Particularly, there was distinct tendency to increase weight loss and flexibility.