• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.