• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.117-129
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• 2015

This study is to find out the changes and features of male consumers' life style and purchase tendency according to the change of Korean fashion market, and based on which to suggest the design for the 20s men as well as a proper distribution channel for it. Documentary research and investigation were done together for the study. By reviewing documents focused on previous studies and declaring the change of men's fashion shopping tendencies and the following changes and features of their fashion sense and styles a conceptional frame for a design suggestion was presented. Ways to investigate were men's wear collection research, Q-technique. First of all, they tend to boldly reduce unnecessary purchases and do not hesitate to focus on the wanted item, expanding the trend of 'value purchase.' Secondly, men's wear use various design elements with feminine images, while the materials, colors and design expressive techniques that have been exclusively used for women's wear, began to be applied to men's one, turning them into gentle styles with womanhood is stressed. Thirdly, Korean distribution channel is rapidly diversified from departments to new-concept ones such as multi-brand stores. Especially, displaying and selling various optional products, multi-brand stores lead such diversification of fashion distribution channel. Fourthly, features of the drapery types favored by the 20s men are that they like no-chromed dark or blackish colors with fixed structure and partially-applied drapery on the clothes. Fifthly, it turns out that men in their 20s set a premium on design and price while they buy clothes. In addition to that, they buy clothes mainly during discount period and displayed much bigger satisfaction for the purchase on discounted price that those on normal price.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.