• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.93-106
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• 2008

Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.39
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• pp.863-901
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• 2019

This paper deals with the process of developing a traditional culture content based on the historical spread of Jajimu, an ethnic dance of ancient Tashkent(Chach), to Tang China and then to Goryeo in Korean peninsula. Jajimu as a solo dance form was a very enegetic dance form that reflects the dynamic nature of namadic life, and it enjoyed high popularity in Tang China due to its exotic style after the 8th century A.D. Later, it gave a birth to a derivative duet dance form called Ssangjaji or Guljaji, an highly sophisticated elegant court dance item that reflects the aesthetic taste of Tang China. Further, the Ssangjaji was flowed into Georyeo around in the 11th century or earlier, and was transformed into a Korean court dance while renaming it as Yeonhwadae that means 'lotus pedestal'. I tried the production of a special performance which displys those three dance forms on same stage to demonstrate the historical connection of ancient Asian dance. It was not easy to restore the music, dance and costume of Jajimu and Ssangjaji because of limited historical materials whereas those of Korean Yeonhwadae have been well preserved and transmitted owing to old dance and music notation system. A large amount of audio, visual materials were collected and analysed to overcome those limits, and its result was utilized efficiently for the production. The final performance was the culmination of long preparation process for 11 months in 2015. In spite of some limits, this project has a historical meaning in the point that it was the first trial of same kind in the world.