• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.151-171
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

The purposes of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design by focusing on the period from 2000 to 2010 and to find out the development direction of the next makeup design. This study considered formative theory to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design of $Marian$ $L.$ $Davis$ and $Marilyn$ $R.$ $Delong's$ theory, and analyzed the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design in an aspect of line and form, color and material, The results are as follows: First, the shapes of the artistic eye-makeup such as tear drops, and rectangular paisleys were similar with the form of clothes such as the hourglass, cylinders and mix-types. Second, monotonic color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination that induced complex contrast coordination were apparent as well. Third, the objects of the artistic eye-makeup such as glitter papers, spangles and beads had similar features as the material of clothes such as silk and spangle, and contrast was partially used like colors. The results suggest that artistic eye-makeup and clothes have an organic relationship, and artistic eye-makeup is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.195-219
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• 2011

The purpose of the study is to analyze Hollywood actresses' makeup in formative characteristics and see the transition of the change for the usage as the fundamental materials to develop the future makeup field academy with the focus focused from 1920s to 2000s when the cosmetic industry began in earnest. The content of the study is to see the transition of the change by analyzing makeup of each era in formative aspect after seeing the transition of the makeup change in the social background by classifying by 10 years from 1920s to 2000s with related literature as the center in the theoretical background. The method of the study is to analyze makeup in formative aspect with total 180 pieces of pictures selected by two experts among their photos by selecting four actresses by each era and analyze Hollywood actresses' advertisement pictures which can be called as beauty icons at that time. Analysis frame to analyze the formativeness established new classification frame based on theories of Marian L. Davis, Marilyn Revell Delong, and Kang to analyze line, shape, texture, and decoration, and researcher's analysis frame was prepared based Munsell's color circle, tone analysis of P.C.C.S color system, and Kang's makeup color name to analyze colors. The result of the study is like below. Generally 20s and 30s highlighted line of eyebrows, 40s naturalness, 50s and 60s highlighted eye makeup, and from 70s makeup was focused on health, in 80s colorful makeup was boom, and 90s and 2000s has shown characteristics focused on texture of face.