• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.18-37
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• 2019

This study derived a method for establishing the chronology of cloud patterns by examining the arrangement of the treasure motifs in the cloud pattern used in the relevant pattern-decorated book covers of 89 Oegyujanggak Uigwe books, which are currently housed in the National Museum of Korea. The cloud pattern with a treasure motif was used in the covers of a total of 89 books from King Hyojong Gukjangdogam Uigwe (1659) to Sadoseja Garyedogam Uigwe (1744), spanning 86 years. First, to analyze the cloud pattern, it should be broken down into smaller parts to the extent that the different shapes of treasure motifs can be recognized. Secondly, the method of decoding the pattern is as follows: First, check whether the pattern is arranged in one or two directions from the vertex of the cloud's head, and determine the direction of the cloud tail. Then, decode the treasure motif's arrangement starting from the vertex of the cloud's head toward the direction the tail of manja is headed. Record the findings of this decoding process by categorizing them. Thirdly, as a result of the analysis, a total of 28 types of cloud patterns with treasure motifs were identified in 89 books. There were 45 types of treasure motifs used in such patterns. Finally, we have concluded that applying the method of decoding the treasure motif in the cloud pattern to portraits, excavated costumes, and various relics can be useful to establish the chronology of cloud patterns in the late Joseon period. The method suggested in this study is called 'The Reading Method of Chronology in Cloud Pattern with Treasure Motifs' (also 'Jeung-ha Cloud Pattern Reading Method').