• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.779-798
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to propose the direction of veganism-based fashion design in environmental and animal protection through the theoretical consideration of vegan fashion and the analysis of the practical design characteristics of veganism in Stella McCartney's fashion. The research was conducted through literature research and case studies. After investigating the concept and characteristics of vegan fashion, focusing on previous studies and various fashion-related Internet data, Stella McCartney's fashion was examined with particular attention on vegan characteristics. The results of the study are as follows: First, imitative nature pursues animal and environmental protection, but the motif or appearance is a characteristic of pursuing a multi-purpose design that imitates animals and nature. Second, expression of value is based on slow fashion, simplicity, and sustainable minimal design. It is expressed indirectly by pursuing permanence, simplicity, and long-wearable design, or directly expressing vegan values through phrases expressed in performances or costumes in the collection. Third, alternative eco-friendliness is characterized by using cruelties-free materials such as faux fur, recycling materials, new bio-materials, and regenerated materials. These vegan characteristics are comprehensively and organically expressed in the works of the collection, and through this, sustainable and eco-friendly vegan fashion is pursued. It is anticipated that by deriving the vegan fashion characteristics of Stella McCartney, who represents vegan fashion, it will be possible to provide the basis for practical direction and design methods for fashion brands aiming for vegan fashion styles.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.117-126
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• 2017

In this study, moisture transport characteristics for the woven and knitted fabrics made of 8 kinds of fiber materials using MMT (moisture management tester) were measured and discussed with the Bireck bt MMT and water evaporating rate (WER) measuring methods, which are vertical moisture transport methods. In addition, the drying property by MMT of the eight kinds of specimens was compared and discussed with the results measured by the vertical drying measurement. MMT experimental result which is horizental moisture transport appeared to be similar to the result of the Bireck method, which is the vertical moisture transport experiment. Absortion time measured from drip method of the fabrics made of the bamboo, linen, and cotton/nylon composite fabrics was short and thus they showed best wicking property, which was attributed to the low contact angle on the fabric surface and high porosity of the fabrics due to the staple yarn structure composed of the hydrophilic staple fibers. In drying property of the fabric specimens by MMT, maximum absorption radius of the dry-zone knit and bamboo woven fabrics were the highest and they showed the best drying property, which was a little different result compared with vertical drying measurement method. Half time of the drying rate in the MMT method was highly correlated with the fabric thickness and saturated moisture absortion rate and their regression coefficients were 0.9 and 0.88, respectively. This means that the knitted and woven fabric design technology for retaining good wicking and drying properties of the fabrics with thin fabric thickness is very important for obtaining high functional wear comfort fabrics. In addition, wicking and drying properties of the fabrics made of different fiber materials and with different yarns and fabric structures showed different results according to the measuring methods.

• Asia-Pacific Journal of Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.67-85
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• 2023

Purpose - This study seeks to investigate the determinants of global sourcing intention in clothing sewing industry, in particular with its focus on women's knit wear production. Design/methodology/approach - This study collected a unique set of qualitative data through 31 in-depth interviews with fashion brands, promotion agencies, and sewing factories between July 2023 and October 2023. In addition, it analyzed the dataset using the MAXQDA to complement the research findings. Findings - We have two findings. First, the interviewees commonly mentioned the following factors as reasons for considering global sourcing: the human factors(aging of skilled technicians and labor shortages), the financial factors(gap in production unit prices at home and abroad), the relational factors(lack of novelty), and the physical factors(loss of production infrastructure and network), while the human factors(skilled workforce), the production factors(delivery date and product quality), and the relational factors(timely communication and mutual trust) as reasons for continuing domestic sourcing. Additional code analysis of interview also supports this finding. On the other hand, there was also a subtle difference between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and processing plants), and buyers consider the exact delivery date critical so that they could see trend-sensitive women's knit wear on time, and suppliers took production costs, labor costs, and labor shortages, which are financial factors, more seriously. Research implications or Originality - This study provides a richer and more balanced view of existing literature, which has generally tended to introduce global sourcing across the clothing industry despite the existence of various diversity within the industry. In addition, through qualitative research, we introduce that the sewing industry is carried out according to complex factors, and by revealing and categorizing the determinants of global sourcing, we supplement the existing research on the clothing sewing industry centered on survey. On a practical note, this study introduces that there is a difference in view of domestic sourcing and global sourcing between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and sewing factories), suggesting practical implications for revitalizing networks and deriving win-win cooperation network models among members in the future.