• 복식
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• 제65권3호
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• pp.28-46
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to classify the concept expressed in the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play, and supplement logic, which is process of the changeability of fashion style. The specific research questions are as follows: first question deals with the relationship between changeability and la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images, and how la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images are divided by each phase and how their circumduction play is proceeded. The second question is about the important features of the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rance play. The last topic of this study covers the supplement logic and the condition, and how supplement logic has been applied in the process of changeability of fashion style. This paper deploys a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play is the root of power, which is controlling the changeability of fashion style, and the objective of the play is to outline new la diff${\acute{e}}$rant images through spatialization of time. In addition, supplement logicis the method of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and the purpose of the logic is to harmonize 'ultimate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the phenomenological construction stratum in the state of sub-conscious changeability, and 'immediate la diff${\acute{e}}$rant image', which is the structural construction level stratum in the state of external changeability. This research proves that the intrinsic attribute of changeability is contained the mobility of la diff${\acute{e}}$rant play and supplement logic.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.289-300
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• 2016

This study surveys children's costumes and games from the 11 Genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(Stewart Culin 1858-1929)". The character of the general dress-costumes, games and the culture of life from the late $19^{th}$ century in genre painting of Junkeun Kim are as follows. The study results on the games are as follow. The boy's games are kite-flying, spinning tops, playing shuttlecock with the feet, blindman's buff, yut("Four-Stick Game"). Girl's games are seesaw with board, blindman's buff, marbles. Combined games are mount shoulder, sledge, tightrope walking for men with boy. The strengthen one's body type were seesaw with board, tightrope walking, the compete score type were playing shuttlecock with the feet, marbles and the multi complex type were yut("Four-Stick Game"), kite-flying. Through genre painting in the $19^{th}$ century we know a boy's 'Jeogori 'and 'Ba-ji' were similar to a modern man's and boy's 'Hanbok' with a traditional method of wearing. We believe that the originality of a traditional costume was an unchangeable characteristic. Girl's 'Jeogori' and 'Chi-ma' changed in length and width, and method of wearing; however, the basic shape did not change. The analysis for artist's genre painting which was ordered by a foreigner and the late of $19^{th}$ century's children's costume and game of life culture is useful to match the counters and show how to wear a modern Korean costume used to understand the 'Hanbok' and establish a costume of life.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.124-137
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to produce an essential guideline for making costumes for traditional Korean mask plays by doing a comparative analysis between traditional Korean mask plays and Italian 'Commedia dell'arte'. The results of this study are as follow. The costumes of Korea's mask plays were mainly used to show difference in social status. Analysis showed that costume features, such as color, fabric, and silhouette, were not important to the traits of the character. On the other hand, the costumes in the Italian 'Commedia dell'arte' were used to express the characters' traits. The colors, fabric and silhouettes were exaggerated compared to everyday wear. This enhanced the looks of the character, and it kept on developing with the demands of the culture consumer. This study was performed to support further development and success of traditional Korean mask plays.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2016

Gutnori(ritual A Comparative Study on Shaman's Costume of south coast Byeolsingut in Korea and the Guizhou Nahui in China play) refers to a play in the form of showing actual appearance of god and actual comedic gag with gutguri rhythm. In order to carry out a comparison between the shaman's costume in Korea and China, this study will delve into the types of shaman costumes that are worn in the gutnoris(mask plays) performed in Korean guts and those of China performed in Nahui. As research method, literature reviews and field surveys have been conducted concurrently. In terms of literature reviews, previous research have been studied centrally. For field surveys, Korean gut, Byeolsingut performance was observed for 2 days 1 night between 1st Feb. 2014-2nd Feb. 2014 in the south coast and Chinese Nahui in Guizhou was observed for 2 days 1 night between 25th Nov. 2014-26th Nov. 2014. By comparing Shaman's costume that is worn in Korean shamanism with that of Chinese shamanism as a partial means of understanding the uniqueness of Korean shaman's costume, the following conclusion was derived upon focusing on the common types of gutnori costumes and organizing them. As a universal trait for shaman's costumes in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, traditional clothing were worn. A unique trait for shaman's costume in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, deity expressions were shown in both cases using colors.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제35호
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• pp.93-123
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• 2017

한국 민속춤의 정수인 승무는 춤의 연원이나 유래, 춤의 명칭과 복식을 볼 때 불교와 깊은 영향관계를 가지고 오랜 세월 변화 발전되어 온 춤이다. 현재 주로 추어지고 있는 승무는 장삼춤과 북춤의 구성으로 고착되어 있으나, 일제강점기의 승무는 그 역사성과 다양한 유래설 만큼이나 여러 양상의 승무를 유추해 볼 수 있다. 1940년을 전후해서 해주권번의 사범이었던 장양선은 양소운을 통해 <성인인상무>를 작품화했다. 2010년 '양소운 추모공연'에서 추어진 <성인인상무>의 영상을 분석해 본 결과, 첫째, 이 춤은 춤의 제목에서 전달하고자 하는 주제가 뚜렷하고, 승무의 유래설 중에서 불제자가 수도 중에 번뇌하고 타락했다가 다시 불교에 회귀한다는 기원설을 내포하고 있음을 확인할 수 있다. 둘째, 장삼춤 - 북놀이 - 바라춤 - 허튼춤 - 회심곡 - 귀의로 이어지는 과정은 작품의 주제의식을 순차적으로 잘 보여주고 있었다. 셋째, 불교의식무용인 바라무, 민속적 특징인 개성과 즉흥성이 강한 허튼춤, 불교음악인 회심곡 등 내용과 그 전개에 따라 여러 표현방법이 결합한 형식이었다. 이는 20세기 초 승무를 무대화 내지는 작품화하고자 했던 흐름을 잘 반영하고 있음을 알 수 있었다. <성인인상무>는 현재 장삼춤과 북춤만의 장대한 형식의 승무와 비교했을 때, 내용면에서는 본래 승무가 담고자 했던 의미를 살펴볼 수 있었고, 형식적인 측면에서는 악가무와 극적 요소가 결합된 다양성을 되돌아보게 한다. 미래지향적으로 발전할 수 있는 승무를 위해 많은 시사점을 제시하고 있다는 점에서 본 연구의 의의가 있다고 하겠다.