• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.2329-2341
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• 2013

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like significant waves in the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which is installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data observed through the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like significant waves at several points in the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing numerically predicted data against either target or measured data at the observation site. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like significant waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.149-159
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• 2014

In this study, we develop an algorithm to predict swell-like high waves on the east coast of Korea using the directional wave gauge which was installed near Sokcho. Using the numerical wave model SWAN, we estimate wave data in open sea from the wave data collected by using the directional wave gauge. Then, using the wave ray method and SWAN model with the open-sea wave data as offshore boundary conditions, we predict the swell-like high waves at several major points on the east coast of Korea. We verify the prediction methods with the SWAN and wave ray methods by comparing predicted data against measured one at Wangdolcho. We can improve the prediction of the swell-like high waves in the east sea of Korea using both the real-time wave measurement system and the present prediction algorithm.

• 어항어장
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• s.89
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• pp.30-34
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• 2010

너울성 거대 파랑의 내습은 극히 보기 드문 확률로 기상조건이 갖추어지고 취송거리가 지극히 길어졌을 경우에 발생하므로 해일 등의 돌발 재해와 같은 특별한 대책이 요구된다. 토야마만은 갑자기 깊어지는 만으로 "아이가메(藍甁)"라고 불리는 복잡한 해저지형을 나타내는 지역도 있어, 연안의 파랑 변형에 해저지형의 영향이 강하게 나타나고 있음이 예상된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.101-111
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• 2010

Characteristics of large-height swell-like waves that repeatedly occurred on the Korean East Coast in winter season were analyzed by using the wave observation data and the meteorological data. Based on the results of the data analysis, it was demonstrated that the swell-like waves have been generated due to the long-lasting strong northeasters in the East Sea, which were formed as a result of the low pressure trough in the vicinity of the extratropical low pressure system that advanced to East Sea from the China inland with decreasing its central pressure. Among the recently occurred events of the swell-like waves, the characteristics of the two events in October 2005 and 2006 were predominantly wind waves. Meanwhile, the one in February 2008 seems to be occurred by the initial wave growth due to wind waves followed by the secondly increase of the wave height due to longer-period swell.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.476-476
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• 2016

근래 들어 우리나라 동해안에서 이상고파라 불리는 너울성 고파가 자주 발생하여 상당한 인명 피해를 야기하는 등 사회적으로 큰 이슈가 되고 있다. 이상고파는 일반적으로 동해상에서 발달한 강한 저기압에 의해 발생한 고파가 상대적으로 주기가 긴 너울의 특성을 띄며 우리나라 연안에 도달하여 피해를 발생시키는 것으로 알려져 있으며, 연안에 해상상태가 잦아지는 상황에서 갑작스럽게 전파되어 오기 때문에 많은 인명피해가 발생하게 된다. 현재 미국 등의 해양예보 선진국들은 파랑모델을 운용하여 너울을 포함한 파랑예보를 수행하고 있으며, 해상부이 등의 다양한 파랑관측을 통해 그 성능을 향상시키고 있다. 우리나라에서도 선진 해양예보시스템을 활용하여 이상고파를 예측하고자 하는 연구의 필요성이 제기되고 있으며 정부 관련 부처를 중심으로 그에 대한 연구가 점차 진행되고 있다. 본 연구에서는 파랑모델을 활용하여 기존에 발생한 이상고파 피해사례에 대한 후측모의를 수행하고 우리나라에서 발생하는 이상고파의 발달과정을 분석하였다. 또한, 파랑모델의 후측모의 결과를 관측자료와 비교하여 모델의 성능을 검증하고 문제점을 분석하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.124-126
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• 2016

해안역에서의 대규모 개발은 파랑에너지의 전파에 상당한 변화를 초래한다. 특히, 항만내로 전파되는 파랑장을 변화시켜 기존의 에너지 전달체계에 큰 영향을 야기한다. 따라서, 이러한 파랑에너지의 변화를 사전에 예측하여 항만내의 선박이나 항만구조물의 피해를 막을 수 있다. 그러나 일반적으로 수행되는 항만내의 파랑장 검토 즉, 정온도 검토는 주로 공학적으로 문제가 되는 주기 10~20sec의 풍파와 너울성 파랑에 대하여 수행되고 있다. 그러나 실제 현장에서는 20sec 이상의 장주기 파랑에 의한 선박이나 항만구조물에 상당한 피해를 가져오기도 하지만 이로 인해 연간 부두 접안율이 낮아 항만운영에 어려움을 겪고 있다. 본 실험은 대규모 개발에 따른 장주기 파랑에 의한 반응특성과 부진동의 영향을 검토하였다. 특히, 항내 수제선에 개발이 집중적으로 이루어져 내륙측으로 항만수역을 보완하거나 변경이 어려운 경우 장주기파로 인한 부진동의 영향을 저감하기 위한 시도로 공진수역을 도입하였으며, 이에 대한 반응 특성을 분석하여 장래 항만 재배치 계획에 반영할 수 있는 근거가 될 수 있을 것으로 본다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.366-371
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• 2012

High swell has been known for the one of the main causes of beach erosion in the east coast of Korea. In this study, coastal topography changes due to high swells are simulated to find its effect on the backshore by using movable bed experiments and numerical experiments. Sea bottom topographical changes due to various incident waves were investigated using CSHORE model in the numerical experiments. Furthermore, the mechanism and the phenomena of beach erosion due to waves and high swells on the foreshore and backshore were analyzed and compared with movable bed hydraulic experiments.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.36-45
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• 2017

In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.

• Coastal and Ocean
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.65-70
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• 2008