• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.990-1001
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of perceiver's gender, clothing, and hairstyle on the visual evaluation of men's professionalism and preference. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used. The experimental design was a $2\times8\times2$ (perceiver's gender $\times$ clothing $\times$ hairstyle) factorial design by 3 independent variables. The stimuli were 16 photographs of a man in his twenties. The upper clothing of the man included tailored collar jackets in beige and dark blue colors, and jumpers and sweaters in beige, dark blue, and red colors. The lower clothing of the men included jean pants. Two types of the hairstyles included short hair and medium length hair. The subjects were 208 men and 223 women in Seoul, Korea. Wearing a beige sweater with jean pants was evaluated high in intellectual image, a red jumper was perceived low in intellectual image, and a beige tailored collar jacket was evaluated low in potent image. Men's short hairstyle was evaluated to be more professional than the medium length hair. Male perceivers liked short hair more than medium length hair, but female perceivers evaluated both hairstyles similarly. In the case of women, the preferences of tailored collared jacket and soutien collared jumper were similar, but jumper was preferred to jacket in the case of men. Male perceivers showed more positive feedback towards jean pants with soutien collared jumper than jeans with tailored collared jacket, which indicated that men showed more conservative attitude towards the outfit than women. The man who was wearing a jumper with short hair was evaluated positively and the man who was wearing a jacket with medium length hair was evaluated negatively when the attires were coordinated with jean pants. In conclusion, medium length hairstyle with a beige jacket and short hairstyle with a red sweater were evaluated as professional image; and the results indicated that clothing and hairstyle interact with each other and influence the evaluation of professionalism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.136-145
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• 2009

Growing needs of reducing energy consumption and enhancing creative thinking brought expanding of men's business wear market into more trendy and casual sector. As fashion trend of men's business wear has changes to casual jackets, there is need to study for the inner structure of casual jacket. The inner structure of casual jackets are different from conventional tailored jackets so that they can provide more comforts, functionality and characteristic style. The purpose of this study is to find out how the inner structure of casual jackets are made up by comparing jackets of various brands. In order to categorize the construction methods, where, how and what kind of lining, interlining, sleeve heads and shoulder pads are applied were studied. Although there are considerable varieties in making up methods, it could be concluded that casual jackets have lighter and less time and labour consuming inner structure, i.e. partial linings, fusible inter-linings, ready made sleeve heads and shoulder pads.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.31-41
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• 2011

Jacket is popular ready-made garment among college students in their early 20s. However, ready-made jackets, which are designed to fit normal people, are not likely to fit sportsmen well who have highly developed muscles in particular parts of their bodies. And muscle development is quite different among sportsmen according to the types of sports and bodily movements. Therefore, ready-made jackets can not be expected to fit sportsmen well as they fit normal people who have different shapes of bodies from sportsmen. The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors of fitness and comfortableness of jackets for sportsmen in their early 20s according to the types of sports to provide basic data for designing suitable garments for them. Research method, 362 college sportsmen in their early 20s were surveyed from June 2nd 2009 to June 9th 2009, and 360 of them were processed statistically, with 2 of them having been discarded for lack of sincerity. Among Taekwondo players, Arm Length was the most complained part, among wrestlers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among fencers, 'Waist Circumference' was the most complained part, among swimmers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among apparatus gymnast, 'Hip Circumference' was the most complained part, among track athletes and handball players, more than 20% answered that the jackets did not fit them in every parts. It was understood that different sportsmen complained of particular parts of the jackets and that parts of the jacket should be adjusted according to bodily shapes of different sportsmen. This study was made to investigate the factors to be considered in producing ready-made jackets for college sportsmen. It is hoped that more patterns will be developed on the basis of the original form of jacket and the result of this study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2021

This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.