• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.244-251
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.8
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• pp.1286-1298
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• 2008

This study was attempted to examine the indigo dyeing technique in the latter Joseon Dynasty, and to find diachronic specifics in the indigo dyeing method from 17C to 19C. The results are as follows: First, There were 2 kinds of indigo species-Yoram(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) and Sungram(Isatis tinctoria L.)-in the latter Joseon Dynasty. Dangram was preferred in particular among Yoram species because of its high dyeing efficiency. Sungram was mainly used for making Jeon(indigo sediment). Second, Yoram cultivation took the following order: Sowing in April${\rightarrow}$planting out in June${\rightarrow}$harvesting leaves in August${\rightarrow}$collecting seeds in September. Sungram had more harvesting times and wider harvesting period than Yoram. Third, all indigo dyeing methods were grouped into two categories, one was temporary dyeing method, the other was permanent dyeing method. Mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, raw leaves dyeing, and fermentation dyeing belonged to the temporary dyeing. Jeon dyeing and Gaeogi dyeing belonged to the permanent dyeing. Finally, diachronic specifics from 17C to 19C were as follows: Decline in the mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, development in the raw leaves dyeing, continuance of the fermentation dyeing, and naturalization of Jeon dyeing technique.

• Archives of design research
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.317-326
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• 1999

The Korean traditional color passed down over countless generations has surpassed both surpassed both time and space and continue today to breathe life into its people's everyday. In order to clarify the characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red, we investigate the names of them and measured the color tones of textile remains in Chosun era. The characteristics of Korean traditional color blue and red have been surveyed by means of the examination of color names in many famous literatures in Chosun era. Korean terms for color tones were characterized by enormous variety of epithes crowned on them. The color names mentioned contain many unaccountable epithes which were characterized also deep colors and light colors were dominant in it. As a means of enhancing possibilities within limited colors, the commoners increased the names for varying tones of blue color group(32kinds) and red color group(40kinds). These "blue(indigo dyeing)' and 'red(safflower dyeing)' in Chosun era were shown very high frequency in use and the costume colors in Royal Court. With combination of these various blue and red colors they represented a thought of color based on Yinyang Theory and created a polished aesthetic taste. The color samples of textile remains in museum were measured and designated by Munsell color system and the ISCC-NBS color designation system. THe appeared rates were derived on Chosun era and features of colors using on the period were discussed. We aim to present specific recipes in indigo dyeing and safflower dyeing for using our apparel product and folk art.