• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.84-84
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• 2011

국내 섬유산업은 해외로부터의 저가 섬유제품이 대량으로 유입되는 속에서도 산업전반에 꾸준히 고부가 가치화를 지향하고 있다. 소비자의 요구에 부응하여 섬유소재에도 다양한 신개념과 이를 충족시킬 수 있는 기술이 요구되고 있으며, 그 가운데 하나의 영역을 구축해 나가고 있는 분야가 면 리플가공과 같은 표면 형태 가공이며, 최근 들어 폴리에스테르 입체(3D)가공제의 개발 및 가공 방법도 이런 흐름에 부응하여 업계에서 절실한 개발을 요구하고 있는 분야 중 하나이다. 현재 까지 폴리에스테르 섬유의 입체가공 기술은 엠보싱무늬를 조각한 금속 롤러에 열을 가하여 폴리에스터 직물에 찍는 방법으로 원단 표면의 입체적인 무늬를 만들어 내는 방법이 대부분이다. 최근 면 리플가공과 같은 표면 형태 가공이 섬유소재의 새로운 트랜드로 나타나면서 폴리에스테르와 같은 합성섬유에서도 이러한 소재의 질감을 얻고자 많은 시도가 이루어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 5종의 폴리에스테르의 입체가공용 바인더를 포뮬레이션하여 현재 시장성이 있는 폴리에스테르 아이템 5종에 대한 입체가공효과 및 적용성을 고찰하였다. 합성 포뮬레이션 된 바인더는 수용성으로 만들어졌으며, 입체가공 전 후의 원단 외관, 처리 후 수세의 용이성 및 무늬의 입체성효과 등을 확인하였으며, 가공 전후의 원단 물성평가 연구도 동시 진행하였다. 폴리에스테르 섬유의 새로운 패션 소재로의 응용에 초점을 두고 시장의 수요가 폭발되고 있는 폴리에스테르 섬유 및 나일론 등 합성섬유의 3차원 입체 가공(디보싱) 제품을 생산할 수 있는 가공제 및 가공방법의 개발은 신규시장 창출에 큰 기여를 할 수 있을 것으로 판단되며, 다양한 날염업체의 수요를 충족시키고, 섬유산업의 글로벌화에 대응하여 훈련된 영업 인력과 E-commerce를 통한 외산 제품과의 경쟁력 확보로 신규시장 진입기회를 창출할 것으로 기대한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.981-991
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to determine the practicability of an experimental protective clothing by identifying the human body's physiological responses to it as well as the human body's comfort level when wearing it, particularly with the use of a processed charcoal material. The experimental protective clothing came in two types: one whose outer side made use of polypropylene film, and the inner side, a non-woven rayon fabric; and one whose inner side made use of a non-woven fabric processed with charcoal with a 10% density. Experiments were conducted on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21. These experiments were conducted at a climatic chamber, in which the temperature and relative humidity were set below $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C\;and\;50{\pm}10%$, respectively, and were measured within a period of 60min, consisting of a 20-min rest period, a 20-min exercise period, and a 20-min recovery period. Based on the results of this study, the efficiency of the processed charcoal material was reviewed, and a database requiring the production of more functional and comfortable protective clothing materials was established.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.1010-1020
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• 2004

The purposes of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric by the charcoal and the yellow soil printing. It separate the grind charcoal and the yellow soil as two different size of particles $45{\sim}52{\mu}m\;and\;53{\sim}65{\mu}m$ for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of the charcoal and the yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe surface changes by a scanning electron microscope, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, deodorization and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When the charcoal and the yellow soil powder concentration increased from 3 to $9\%$ or from 5 to $10\%$, K/S value also increased from 3.06 to 8.55 or from 1.14 to 1.80. The charcoal and the yellow soil moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. In concentration of charcoal $3\%$, rate of deodorization measured as $89\%,\;83\%\;and\;87\%,\;and\;9\%$ concentration caused $96\%,\;86\%\;and\;93\%$ of high deodorization. In concentration of 5, $10\%$ of yellow soil, rate of deodorization measured as $85\%$ over. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of $60\%$, however, $3\%\;and\;9\%$ concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted $99.9\%$ of excellent antibacterial activity. Also $5\%,\;10\%$ yellow soil concentration was appeared same resoult.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.276-283
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• 2007

The purpose of this study were to investigate characteristic changes on nonwoven fabric for disposable work clothes by the yellow soil printing. It separate grind yellow soil as two different size of particles $45\sim52{\mu}m$ and $53\sim65{\mu}m$ for hand screen printing on three kind of nonwoven fabrics. To examine the effect of yellow soil printing on nonwoven fabric were to observe, dyeability by using spectrophotometer, moisture regain by oven method, air permeability, anion property and antibacterial activity. The results were as follows: When yellow soil concentration increased from 5 to 10%, K/S value also increased from 1.05 to 1.88. When yellow soil concentration increased, moisture regain also increased. In same concentration, moisture regain occurred higher as particle of small size. Air permeability decreased when the charcoal printing concentration increased. Anion occurrence appeared $140\sim160ion/cc$ from three different kinds of nonwoven fabrics in 3% and 9% yellow soil concentration. Therefore, occurred anion ineffectively. In concentration of 3%, rate of deodorization measured as 89%, 83% and 87%, and 9% concentration caused 96%, 86% and 93% of high deodorization. Antibacterial activity examination in nonfinished nonwoven fabric resulted range of 60%, however, 3% and 9% concentration finished nonwoven fabric resulted 99.9% of excellent antibacterial activity Surface temperature increased $1.5\sim2^{\circ}C$ by yellow soil finishing.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.317-328
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• 2012

In this study, printing was introduced to the common dip-dyeing method of persimmon juice dyeing so as to develop two different colored persimmon juice dyed fabrics with printings of 'jorangmal' patterns (a national monument) instead of producing a plain textile. Following are the results of a comparative study between the persimmon dyed fabric and undyed fabric, both with printings, in terms of its properties, and hand values. Cotton and rayon were chosen as samples and were compared separately. Firstly, the samples showed differences in terms of clarity and visual sensation depending on the presence of persimmon dye, even if the same pattern and color was used. Secondly, the air permeability of two samples improved after persimmon dyeing even though their thickness increased, and their moisture regain increased as well in all humidity conditions. Thirdly, protectiveness against UV increased in dyed samples, and sweat, sunlight, and compound colorfastness improved in printed dye-fabrics compared to plain dyed ones. Therefore, printing proved to be effective in preventing discoloration. Fourthly, tensile linearity and resilience, bending rigidity, compressive linearity and resilience, and shearing stiffness increased more in the dyed samples compared to undyed ones. However, shearing recovery decreased in both dyed fabrics. Fifthly, the result of its hand value showed that Koshi value increased in all samples than undyed ones, whereas Fukurami, Numeri, and Softosa values decreased. Incorporating printing in persimmon dyeing process could expect creative outcomes not only in today's diverse fashion but in areas of arts or crafts as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.371-384
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• 2011

This study with 'trip' as a theme, aims to develop textile designs and fashion bags for travel which is widely applicable fitting traveler's T P O, applying Victor Vasarely's artwork. During the planning process of design, 'Whenever & Wherever's concept was set by analyzing fashion trend information in 2010-11 F/W proposed by Interfashion Planning and FCK; in addition, 'Bobos' were selected as research targets. It organized 4 images of 'Modern', 'Romantic', 'Classic' and 'Fantastic'. The motives are proposed textile design with '$Cross^2$', 'Falling Z', 'Cir-Classicism' and 'Skinny-holic' per each theme. The designs developed were printed out and into polyester canvas with a Polaris V6 DTP from dgen, Corp. Textile designs developed were applied for 'two-way' formed fashion bags for traveling with high practicality. Fashion bags for traveling consisted of big bags, tote bags, and hip sacks; a total of 12 works (4 sets per theme) were produced. This study sought practical plans for artworks by producing fashion goods through a DTP system. The results of this study can be used as guidelines for further studies and as a significant contribution to the creation of high values for exciting fashion products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1694-1700
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• 2002

본 연구는 염색 과정 중에 발생하는 수질오염을 줄이고 또한 홀치기 염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못한 다색 의 사용을 가능케 함으로써 새로운 느낌 의 홀치기 문양 표현과 3D 모델링을 통하여 텍스타일디자인이 상품화 되었을 때의 효과를 CAD를 이용하여 살펴보고자 한 것이다. 연구방법으로는 가장 일반적인 실로 묶기, 전통적인 손바느질 느낌이 나는 시침질, 현대적 느낌이 강한 깡통에 의한 묶기와 기하학적 효과가 나는 접기 등의 홀치기염색 기법으로 수작업 한 다음 CAD를 이용하였다 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 홀치기염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못하는 다색사용가능성이 주메뉴의 색정리, 색4전개, 색 바꾸기를 사용함으로써 가능하였다 둘째, 다양한 색을 얻기 위해서 홀치기염색의 수작업에서는 상당한 시간과 노력을 필요로 하지 만 CAD를 사용함으로써 이러한 작업 이 몇 가지 메뉴의 사용으로 짧은 시간 내에 쉽게 이루어질 수 있었다. 셋째, CAD를 통한 홀치기 염색패턴의 새로운 이미지 효과를 얻기 위해 Solarize와 Intensity Direct, Effect/Emboss를 사용함으로써 다양한 질감과 새로운 이 미지 의 홀치기염색패턴을 얻을 수 있었다. 넷째, 위의 작업 과정을 통하여 수작업에서 발생 하는 수질오염을 줄일 수 있었다. 다섯째, 이상에서 얻어진 염색패턴을 3D모델링을 통하여 상품의 제작과정과 소비자에게 착용되었을 때의 효과를 미리 볼 수 있음으로 인해서 생산자의 실패율을 줄여줄 수 있을 것으로 본다 여섯째, CAD를 이용한 이러한 일련의 과정들이 텍스타일산업 분야에 충분히 기여 할 수 있을 것으로 기대 된다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.21-27
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• 2007

The factors which affect the absorption and diffusion of disperse dye in print paste for polyester film were investigated using film roll method. When Emvatex print paste of different disperse dye concentrations were fixed by high temperature steaming(HTS) for 2 hr at $190^{\circ}C$, the dye uptake and diffusion distance of 50g/kg dye concentration for PET film were very low, but those of 100$\sim$300g/kg were increased with increasing dye concentration. It was found that sodium alginate(5%) was more effective for the absorption and diffusion of disperse dye to PET film than CMC(3%) and Emvatex(18%), and Emvatex showed comparatively low absorption in three thickeners used. The dye uptake and diffusion distance of disperse dye in sodium alginate paste for PET film were increased with increasing paste thickness to $160\sim180{\mu}m$, but were decreased at $200\sim220{\mu}m$ in both fixations of baking and HTS for 2 hr at $190^{\circ}C$, and were far more largely increased by fixation of HTS than baking because steam was very important for fixation. Also it was confirmed that dye uptake was slightly increased as steam supply pressure was raised from 1 $kg/cm^2$ to 2 $kg/cm^2$, andthe dye uptake and diffusion distance of disperse dye were outstandingly increased with raising fixing temperature from $170^{\circ}C$ to $190^{\circ}C$ and fixing time from 0.5 hr to 3 hr in the fixation of HTS.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.18-25
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• 2007

The fixing behaviors of anthraquinone disperse dyes containing dimethylamino substituent, such as C. I. Disperse Violet 26(D.V.26) and C. I. Disperse Blue 14(D.V.14), or containing diamino substituent, such as C. I. Disperse Blue 73(D.B.73), and monochlorotriazinyl azo reactive dyes, such as C. I. Reactive Orange 13(R.O.13), C. I. Reactive Red 3(R.R.3). C. I. Reactive Yellow 2(R.Y.2) on polyester/cotton blend(P/C) fabrics were examined for the one-step printing of P/C fabrics. The high temperature steaming of $175^{\circ}C$ is the most satisfactory fixing method for P/C one-step printing with above disperse and reactive dyes among the four different fixing methods: $175^{\circ}C$ steaming, $102^{\circ}C$ steaming${\rightarrow}175^{\circ}C$ steaming, $190^{\circ}C$ thermosol, $102^{\circ}C$ steaming${\rightarrow}190^{\circ}C$ thermosol. $190^{\circ}C$ thermosol is unfit to fix R.R.3 and R.Y.2 whose heat stability is poor. It was found that D.V.26 and D.B.14 containing dimethylamino substituent are unstable for heat and alkali, but D.B.73 is stable for them to print P/C blend fabrics with R.O.13 which is also stable for heat. Therefore we found that D.B.73, R.O.13 and a pair of D.B.73 and R.O.13 were very suitable for one-step printing of P/C blend fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.43-54
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• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.