• 보존과학회지
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• 제37권2호
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• pp.154-166
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• 2021

조선의 어보는 국가 왕실을 상징하는 인장이다. 보수(寶綬)는 어보에 달린 붉은 끈으로, 어보의 품격을 높여주는 장식의 목적과 취급의 편리를 위해 제작되었다. 보수는 끈목과 방울술로 이루어졌다. 본 연구는 1441년부터 1928년까지 제작된 조선 왕실 및 대한제국 황실 어보의 보수 총 318점을 대상으로 형태 조사, 색상, 재질, 성분 분석 등을 실시하였다. 연구 결과 끈목은 시기가 후반으로 갈수록 길어지고 얇아지는 양상을 보인다. 방울술은 1800년대 중후반부터 방울목이 대부분 사라지고 술 끝에 고리가 나타난다. 보수의 색상은 대부분 다홍색이지만 주황색과 자주색도 확인된다. 보수의 재질은 대부분 실크로 확인되지만 1900년대 제작된 어보의 보수 5점과 1740년대에 제작된 어보의 보수 1점은 레이온으로 추정된다. 1740년대에 제작된 어보의 보수는 1900년대에 교체된 것으로 보인다. 방울술을 장식하는 금지의 주요 성분은 시대에 따라 달라진다. 1800년대 중반까지는 술과 방울에 금(Au)이 주요 성분인 금지를 사용하지만 1800년대 중반 이후부터 술에는 금(Au), 방울에는 황동(Cu-Zn)이 주요 성분인 금지를 사용하다가, 후반 이후 술과 방울에 황동이 주요 성분인 금지를 사용하였다. 보수는 어보의 한 부속품이지만 본 연구를 통하여 시대에 따른 제작 기법과 재질의 변화를 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권5호
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.