• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.154-166
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• 2021

The royal seal, in either gold or jade, is used to symbolize Joseon's royal family, and it is made up of a Bonu (a handle), Bosin (a body), Bomun (a letter inscribed on the seal), and Bosu (a string attached to the seal). The Bosu was designed to enhance the seal's dignity and facilitate convenient handling. Bosu consists of Kkeun-mog and Bangwool-sul (decorated with gilt paper), which are made of Bangwool, Bangwool-mog, and Sul. In this study, the form survey, color, material, and composition of 318 Bosu pieces from the Joseon Dynasty and Korean Empire produced from 1441 to 1928 were analyzed. As time passed, the strings on the seals became longer and thinner. Bangwool-mog disappeared from the mid-1800s, and a ring appeared at the end of the Sul. Most of the colors used were scarlet, but orange and purple were also identified. Although most of the Bosu are silk, five Bosu from the 1900s and one Bosu from the 1740s (likely replaced in the 1900s) are estimated to be rayon. The gilt paper's main chemical components used to decorate the Bangwool-sul vary according to age. Until the mid-1800s, gold (Au) was used for the Sul and Bangwool, but since the mid-1800s, gold (Au) and brass (Cu-Zn) were used for Sul and Bangwool, respectively, and then brass (Cu-Zn) was used for Sul and Bangwool. While the Bosu was a seal accessory, it can be used to identify changes in the manufacturing techniques and materials of the period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.