• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.155-164
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• 2014

This paper discusses the social changes in the late 19th century that provided a historical background in the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the West. It examines the social meanings of the appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing at the time and traces the origins of these social characteristics to the book published in the $16^{th}$ century by Thomas More, Utopia. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, the appearance and expansion of the ready-to-wear clothing coincided with the social transition from a class-based society to a democratic society in the west in the $19^{th}$ century. Second, uniforms were produced in the $18^{th}$ century Europe in order to distinguish different classes and ethnic groups, with the military uniforms being the most visible example. Frequent military campaigns in Europe resulted in the increasing demand and expansion of military uniforms, which later became the basis of the standardization of the men's clothing with uniforms. Third, the women's ready-to-wear clothing appeared later than their male counterpart and was made possible by the simplification of design, an important characteristic of women's wear in the later period. Fourth, the social characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be traced to a democratic and egalitarian society without personal properties that was depicted in the book of Utopia by Thomas More. Fifth, one of the characteristics of the ready-to-wear clothing can be found in the description of Utopia, in which everyone in Utopia wears a clothing of the same form for life.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.746-754
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• 2016

This study aimed to investigate the status of ready-made suit and MTM (Made-to-measure) suit production with 10 men's suit brands turning over 200 billion won. Their target age group is late 30's to late 40's. Regarding production for the ready-made suit, eight out of 10 brands are using both KS and their own sizing. Classification of body shapes was done in 8 brands, mostly for upper body in simple ways (lean, normal, and obese). All brands are conducting fittings on only standard size. The number of sizes produced is varying depending on the brands; 9 to 17 for a jacket and 9 to 20 for a pair of pants. Regarding on the MTM production, four out of 10 brands have implemented MTM production. The rate of MTM production to their total production is about 15-20%. There were positive opinions on MTM production since it enables to reduce stocks through a small quantity of production for necessary sizes only. The reasons of orders of MTM production were answered as 'no size available', 'unique body shape', etc., and most orders were placed by consumers who are fat-bellied or have thick thighs. They have used MTM automated CAD software developed by Gerber Technology or Investronica. All the brands have utilized automated marker-making software and cutting facilities for MTM production.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.75-88
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the fit preference tendency for ready-to-wears(jackets, skirts and slacks) of adult women and to find out the respective differences by the age range and the obesity level. The study method was the questionnaire survey with the subjects of 295 women of 20 up to 59 years of age. The questionnaire is composed of fit preference tendency, physical measurements, age, and occupation. For the data analysis, SPSS 18.0 program was used, and descriptive statistics, Crosstabs, ANOVA, Duncan's test, t-test and multiple regression were conducted. The findings were as follows. 1. Regarding the fit preferred for each part of jackets, skirts, and slacks, among ready-to-wears, the 'thing with some extra width' in every part was most favored, followed by the 'thing fitting perfectly.' 2. The differences were found in the fit preference tendency by the age of adult women. The fit preference tendency was higher among those in their 20's than among those of the other age range. 3. The differences were also found in the fit preference tendency by the obesity level of adult women. The fit preference tendency was high in the order of the emaciation, normalcy, and obesity types. 4. For all of three items, age and body type or body type influenced the preference by the fit level. As the age was higher and the body type was fatter, those items with some flexibility were preferred.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.291-302
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• 2010

This study details the actual wearing conditions and favored design of ready-made pants for obese women, particularly for those in their twenties and thirties. The actual problems that customers feel and the preferred design of pants were suggested based on the survey and from the standpoint of consumers. The findings of the survey are as follows. The actual wearing conditions in the survey, 80.5% like wearing pants. The main reason to prefer pants is that pants are more convenient for social or professional work activities. The main reason to avoid wearing pants is that the pants (in general) do not mask an obese body shape. The most favored was Denim/Elastic and the second most favored was Cotton/Elastic from the survey. On average, elastic materials are preferred over non-elastic materials. The reason was the comfort in wearing and convenience in social or professional activities that could mask obesity. In terms of the style, the most favored was blue jeans and the second favored was semi-formal. A straight-silhouette is the most favored as it was able to help mask obesity. The most favored position for the waistline is 4 cm lower than the natural waistline. The most favored pant length is where the pants slightly touch the floor when they stand with shoes on. For obese women the pants development that covers the weak points of the body shape giving, which is comfortable and active are desired.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1092-1101
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the size of ready-made clothing for elderly women and to evaluate their fit according to body type. Subjects were 33 women aged 60 and older, and they were classified by stature and drop index. The size of clothing which manufactured by four apparel brands were measured and compared with body size, and the size designation of four brands was compared. The questionnaire was carried out to subjects, and the size recognition and dissatisfaction with ready-made clothing were analyzed. The fitting test were carried out, and the subjects evaluated the fit of jackets and slacks of four brands. In the result of questionnaire, we found that subjects had little recognition about their clothing size. Subjects responded that they often felt dissatisfaction in their jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, bust girth, slacks, and waist girth. We found that each apparel brands had different sizing system and that even if the size designation of label was same, the clothing size was quite different. So the elderly women who didn't have so much knowledge about their own clothing size had a tendency to confuse with choosing proper clothing for themselves. In the wearer's evaluation, the significant difference in the degree of unsatisfaction were certified in several body parts according to wearer's body type. Especially, the degree of unsatisfaction in the case of subjects of having very small stature or very small hip was higher than other body types. From the result, we certified that it was necessary to consider the characteristics of each body type to increase the satisfaction of elderly women with clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.31-41
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• 2011

Jacket is popular ready-made garment among college students in their early 20s. However, ready-made jackets, which are designed to fit normal people, are not likely to fit sportsmen well who have highly developed muscles in particular parts of their bodies. And muscle development is quite different among sportsmen according to the types of sports and bodily movements. Therefore, ready-made jackets can not be expected to fit sportsmen well as they fit normal people who have different shapes of bodies from sportsmen. The purpose of this study is to investigate the factors of fitness and comfortableness of jackets for sportsmen in their early 20s according to the types of sports to provide basic data for designing suitable garments for them. Research method, 362 college sportsmen in their early 20s were surveyed from June 2nd 2009 to June 9th 2009, and 360 of them were processed statistically, with 2 of them having been discarded for lack of sincerity. Among Taekwondo players, Arm Length was the most complained part, among wrestlers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among fencers, 'Waist Circumference' was the most complained part, among swimmers, Biacromion Length was the most complained part, among apparatus gymnast, 'Hip Circumference' was the most complained part, among track athletes and handball players, more than 20% answered that the jackets did not fit them in every parts. It was understood that different sportsmen complained of particular parts of the jackets and that parts of the jacket should be adjusted according to bodily shapes of different sportsmen. This study was made to investigate the factors to be considered in producing ready-made jackets for college sportsmen. It is hoped that more patterns will be developed on the basis of the original form of jacket and the result of this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권10호
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• pp.1707-1718
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• 2001

본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.722-732
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• 2018

This study was to develop a dress form that is highly representative of the body shapes of senior men in their 50s and 60s. And this research was compared the measurements and forms of three different dress forms available in the market, in order to analyze the body type and suitability and provide a standard for developing and utilizing the dress forms. After extracting the body shapes of the senior men's 3D shape, the body type that is curvature on the back prevalent among senior men, was chosen. The dress form was created as follows: 3D modeling and rendering, printing with a FDM-type 3D printer. The dress forms were 3D-scanned and the 3D data was analyzed - classification drop value, area deviation, compared horizontal section and vertical section. The results were as follows: This suggested that the area deviation amount at the chest and hip circumference levels was larger in the commercial products than in the dress form in this study, while that at the waist circumference level was larger in the dress form in this study. The vertical length of the lateral shoulder point-waist circumference was smaller, the side shape showed severe curvature on the back, and the waist circumference was larger in the senior men dress form than the commercial products. The dress form developed in this study reflected the body type of senior men and, therefore, were suitable for fitting when creating clothes for senior men.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.