• Title/Summary/Keyword: 규칙 경사파

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Transformation of Regular Waves on Currents in Water of Slowly Varying Depth-Theoretical Study (흐름이 존재하는 완경사 해역에서의 파랑변형-이론적 고찰)

  • 채장원;정신택;엄대기;안한수
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.1 no.1
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 1989
  • Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

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Hydraulic Model Test for Armor Stability of Rubble-Mound Breakwaters (경사식방파제의 피복재 안정성에 대한 비교 실험)

  • 이종인
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.15 no.4
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    • pp.249-258
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    • 2003
  • In this study, the stability of armor blocks of rubble-mound breakwaters is investigated based on the 2-dimensional hydraulic model test with irregular waves. Amor blocks were used the three types; rock, cube and tetrapod. And Hudson formula and van der Meer formula which are used for calculating the weight of armor blocks are considered. Hudson formula was developed from regular wave tests, while van der Meer formula was developed from irregular wave tests. The purpose of this paper is to compare and test two selected stability formulas using the experimental data.

Experiments of Wave Heights in front of a Perforated Wall under Obliquely Incident Waves:Monochromatic Wave Conditions (경사입사파 조건에서 유공벽 전면의 파고분포에 대한 실험:규칙파 조건)

  • Lee, Jong In;Kim, Young Taek
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.32 no.5B
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    • pp.301-312
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    • 2012
  • This study investigates the wave height distributions in front of a perforated wall generated by obliquely incident monochromatic waves through laboratory experiments conducted in a wave basin. Attention is paid to the difference or similarity between a plain wall and a perforated wall. And the investigation is focused on the chamber width and side wall effects of a perforated wall on the propagation characteristics of waves. The main results of this study show that the normalized wave height along a perforated wall is a significant difference compare to a plain wall cases. The side wall in the chamber suppresses the growth of the stem waves.

A Hydraulic Model Test of Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone (쇄파대에서의 파랑 변형에 대한 수리모형실험)

  • 정신택;채장원;정원무
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.3 no.3
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    • pp.163-169
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    • 1991
  • Sixty seven regular wave tests were performed in a wave-current flume to investigate proper-ties of waves breaking on irregular slope profiles. In these tests, 1/10, 1/20 beach slopes were made using angles and plywoods. A little differences were found in such properties as breaker depth and height indices. runup for plane slopes comparing with other laboratory experiments. however. for smaller deepwater wave steepness, measured breaker height and depth data values were smaller than other formulas. On wave runup agreement was good between experiments and Hunt formula. however. measured data values were influenced by number of breaking. Significant differences were found in breaker depth index for plane and barred slopes. Wave height decay after breaking was found to be smaller than Dally et al.'s formula (1984).

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Experiments for Wave Velocity Distribution in front of Composite Structure by Incident Wave Angles (입사각에 따른 혼성식구조물 전면의 유속분포 실험)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Moon, Gang Il;Lim, Ho Seok
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.39 no.6
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    • pp.759-768
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    • 2019
  • The extended Tanimoto formula has been widely used to estimate the stability for the toe protection of the composite structure. However, the extended Tanimoto formula usually over-estimates armor weight when the incident waves approach the structure obliquely because the formula incident originally considered the normally incident wave cases. In this study, three-dimensional hydraulic model experiments were conducted to investigate the horizontal wave velocity under monochromatic and random wave conditions to investigate the prediction capability of the extended Tanimoto formula under the different incident wave angle conditions. The maximum horizontal wave velocity was measured near the toe for the normally incident wave condition. In the case of obliquely incident waves, the maximum horizontal wave velocity was measured under the stem wave generation condition. The results of the experiments showed a good agreement with the results by Takahashi et al.

Generation of Real Sea Waves based on Spectral Method and Wave Direction Analysis (스펙트럴 방법에 의한 실해역파 재현 및 파 방향 해석)

  • Lee, Jin-Ho;Choi, Jae-Woong;Kang, Yun-Tae;Ha, Mun-Keun
    • Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • v.42 no.3
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    • pp.212-219
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    • 2005
  • Real sea waves in a towing wave basin have been generated using random periodic motion of the segmented wave makers and the wave reflections of sidewalls. Theoretically, the real sea waves can be described by the superposition of many random oblique waves. This paper introduces numerical real sea wave generation in a rectangular wave basin using spectral method that uses a superposition of orthogonal functions which have to satisfy the Laplace equation. Oblique regular waves, long crested irregular waves and real sea waves were simulated and met the requirement of sidewall wave reflection and wave absorption. MLM (Maximum Likelihood Method) and Spatial Fourier Transform were used in order to obtain propagated wave direction characteristics. The estimated results proved the usefulness of the method and the performances showed reasonable directional patterns comparing with generating patterns.

Distribution of Wave Forces at Points on a Vertical Structure of Semi-Infinite Breakwater Considering Diffraction (회절을 고려한 반무한방파제 형식의 직립구조물에 작용하는 지점별 파력 분포)

  • Jung, Jae-Sang;Lee, Changhoon;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.28 no.4
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    • pp.240-249
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    • 2016
  • In this study, we investigated wave force distribution at points on a vertical structure of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction. Wave forces of monochromatic and random waves on a vertical structure are studied considering diffractions in front and lee side of the breakwater for non-breaking wave condition. We selected width of breakwater are 0 for reference condition. In monochromatic wave case, relative wave force becomes 0 on the head of the breakwater by acting incident wave force and diffracting wave force simultaneously and oscillating patterns of relative wave force occurs based on 1.0 as distance from the head increases. Relative wave force of monochromatic waves decreases as incident wave angle increases. Relative wave force of random waves is defined by using ratio of root mean square and wave force spectrum in this study. The case considering random phase of each wave components are compared to the case which don't consider random phase and both results are almost similar. Relative wave force of random waves is also 0 near the head of the breakwater likewise monochromatic wave. Oscillating pattern of relative wave force of random waves becomes relatively weaker for composition of each wave components as distance from the head increases.

Experimental Study for the Resonance Effect of the Power Buoy Amplitude (공진형 전력부이의 상하변위증폭 효과에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Kweon, Hyuck-Min;Koh, Hyeok-Jun;Kim, Jung-Rok;Choi, Young-Hwan
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.33 no.2
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    • pp.585-594
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    • 2013
  • In this study, laboratory experiments and numerical simulations were conducted to test the performance of resonance power buoy system proposed by Kweon et al.(2010). The system is composed of a linear generator and a mooring buoy. The mover of the linear generator mainly has heave motion driven by vertical oscillation of the buoy. In this system, the velocity discrepancy between the mover and the buoy makes electricity. However, ocean wave energy as a natural resource around Korean peninsula is comparatively small and the driving force for producing electricity is not enough for commercialization. Therefore, it is necessary that the buoy motion be amplified by using resonance characteristics. In order to verify the resonance effects on the test power buoy, the experimental investigations were conducted in the large wave flume (length of 110 m, width of 8 m, maximum depth of 6 m) equipped with regular and random plunger wave generator. The resonance draft of test power buoy is designed for the corresponding period of incident wave, 1.96 sec. Regular wave test results show that the heave response amplitude operator(RAO) by a test buoy has the amplification of 5.66 times higher compared to the wave amplitude at the resonance period. Test results of random waves show that the buoy has the largest spectrum area of 20.73 times higher at the point of not the resonance period but the shorter one of 1.85 sec. Therefore this study suggests the resonance power buoy for wave power generation for commercial application in the case of the coastal and oceanic area with smaller wave energy.