• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.69-78
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• 2006

In the early Joseon when royal authority was not still firmly established, King Taejong, or Lee Bang Won tried to make their political position guaranteed through relationships with Ming, making efforts to develop relations with the Chinese nation positively. This political orientation towards Ming by of the king Taejong was also clearly reflected in the settlement of official uniform in the early Joseon, which can be described as follows. Gaoming(誥命), Yinxin(印信) and Mianfu(冕服) granted by Ming for the first time since the foundation of Joseon suggested that the Chinese nation recognized the formal settlement of Joseon dynasty and the inauguration of King Taejong. presumedly, the grants played a critical role in the firm establishment by King Taejong of his royal authority under unstable political conditions. Under the reign of King Taejong, Joseon tried to abolish ancient regime and, instead, accept systems and institutions of Ming as it maintained smooth relations with the Chinese nation. King Taejong whose royal authority was locally deemed lack in legitimacy and morality wanted to receive the moral recognition of his reign. So the monarch tried to not only strengthen his authority, but also take in advanced culture and civilization through submissive diplomatic relations with Ming. This was a practical diplomatic strategy that was clearly discriminated from toadyism. It was a policy towards Ming, pursuing substantial national benefit. Therefore, official uniform system under the reign of King Taejong should be understood accordingly.

• 복식
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• 제55권2호
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• pp.70-81
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• 2005

This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.180-203
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• 2020

연구는 공신초상의 관복 제1기를 하향뿔의 사모와 잡색 단령 시기로 규정하고 성종 7년(1476) 이전에 그려진 조선 초 개국공신(1392)에서 성종 초 좌리공신(1471)까지의 공신초상 관복의 특징을 고찰한 것이다. 관복 제1기에 속하는 공신초상(이모본) 중 이제(개국), 이천우(정사·좌명), 마천목(좌명), 신숙주(정난), 설계조(정난), 그리고 이숭원(좌리) 공신초상 등 관복 표현이 비교적 적절하다고 판단되는 6점을 선정하고 관복 구성품별 조형적 특징을 살펴보았다. 조선 초 삼공신(개국·정사·좌명)의 사모는 모체는 낮고 모정은 둥글며, 사모의 하향각(下向角)은 좁고 짧은 형태였으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 사모는 모체가 높아지고 사모의 하향각도 두 배 정도로 길어졌다. 그리고 관복 제1기 공신초상의 사모뿔에는 무늬가 표현되지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 개국 초에는 단령의 색상 규정이 없었으나 대체로 옅은 색의 단령으로 표현되었다. 세종대 이후 예복용 흑단령 제도가 시작되었으나 공신초상 관복에는 흑단령 제도가 반영되지 않았으며 단종대 이후에는 담홍색 단령으로 표현되었다. 단령 겉감에는 무늬가 표현되지 않았으며, 옆트임에는 '안주름무'가 표현되었다. 단령 받침옷 답호와 철릭 역시 통일된 색상은 없었으나 정난공신 이후에는 청색 답호와 초록색 철릭을 착용하는 경향이 확인되었다. 그리고 품대는 공신의 품계를 나타내는 역할을 하였다. 단종대 이후 흉배제도가 제정되었으나 제1기 공신초상 중에는 정난공신 신숙주 초상에서만 유일하게 흉배가 표현되었다. 단령에 신는 화자는 조선 초 삼공신 초상에서는 흑화가 확인되었으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 초상에서는 백화가 확인되었다. 그리고 일부 공신초상의 흑화와 백화 솔기선 부분에 연금사로 장식한 휘(揮)가 확인되었는데 휘 장식의 화자는 3품 이상이 신던 협금화를 표현한 것임을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.165-171
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• 1981

During the period of 3rd Tae-Jong and 4th Se-Jong, Yi Dynasty has established sound basis for ruling power and aristocratic social cast system. And the regulation for official dress has also been firmly established during the same period. The establishment of KWAN BOK SACK (Office of Hat-Dress) in 16th year of Tae-Jong (1416 A.D.) and the enforcement of KWAN BOK JI JAE (System of Hat and Dress) in 8th year of Se-Jong(1426 A.D) indicates the completion of system of official dress in the dynasty. In this study, the author tried to find out the concept of color in the ruling society since the concept of color in KWAN BOK JI JAE, which is the social reglation in the fendal dynasty, had greatly been influenced by these class of people. Effort has also been given to investigate what motivated the establishment and enforcement of KWAN BOK JI JAE, through the descriptions revealed in SE-JONG SILLOK. It can be concluded in the first that, in KWAN BOK JI JAE no new color concept appeared and its significance only remains on the fact that it establshed the social regulations which were existed before. And secondly, the works of Se-Jong in KWAN BOK JI JAE, in contrast to his magnificance in other fields, only showed great influence of toadyism (Chinese culture).