• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.44-55
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of man's boots in the Joseon Dynasty and compared them with those of the Ming and Qing Dynasty to find the influential relationships between them. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty are divided into several kinds such as Heukgwejapihwa, Hheuksapihwa(黑斜皮靴), Heukpihwa(黑皮靴), Mokhwa(木靴), Hyeopgeumhwa(挾金靴), Suhwaja (水靴子), Jeonpihwa, Gijahwa(起子靴), and Baekhwa(白靴). In addition, Jeong(精: footwear) was put inside boots. They tend to be named according to their materials or ornaments on them. First, Jeong put inside the boots is regarded as footwear for the comfort of the feet or protection against cold. Mokhwa appears in literature around the 19th century. As shown by remains and paintings of those days, it is considered to have become the common name of boots as it underwent many changes. On the other hand, a book in the era of King Gojong includes pictures of Suhwaja. Compared to Hukpihwa in the same book. The topside seems to have been raised in order to make the wearer who put on a military uniform feel comfortable when walking, since the bottom piece is hard. Baekhwa is worn not only with funeral garments but also with Sibok(時服), one of official uniforms. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty had been made following the design of the Ming Dynasty since official uniforms were conferred upon King Gongmin in the late Koryo Dynasty. But turning the late Joseon Dynasty its detailed design changed little by little. The topside of the boots became more round, the entrance part became wider, height of the shoes became taller, and the bottom piece became parallel to the ground.

• 복식
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• 제63권7호
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• pp.164-175
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• 2013

This study examined the Yemou(a hat for a dead woman) from the ladies' clothes excavated from the Lady Lee's tomb in order to trace the significance of the clothing composition and its social origin in the Chosun dynasty. The compositional characteristic of Yemou covers the body of the hat which is not connected with the cover, Wonsal which has a round shape that covers the face of the dead body, and two Gae(a ribbon on the backside of a hat). Seongho Lee-ik(one of representative Confucian scholars in the Chosun dynasty) stated in his book entitled "Seongho Notes", that the structural elements of Yemou originated in Yum(wrapping cloth for the head of a dead body). According to Seongho, Yemou's body part came from the scarf used to cover the head. Wonsal(the cloth of round shape for covering the face) and Gae were derived from Yum made of two ends of long cloth for covering and binding the head of a dead body. Yongjae Kim-kunhang(one of Confucian scholars in the late-Chosun dynasty) demonstrated in his "Yongjae Collection" the social background of the emergence of Yemou. Yemou was the hat produced from the process of nationalizing the Chinese courtesy of clothing. In other words, Bokgun(a man's hat) in the Chosun dynasty replaced the Chinese Yum. Unlike the Chinese custom, man and woman in the Chosun dynasty wore different clothes respectively. According to the clothing custom of the Chosun dynasty a woman wore a female hat, Yemou instead of men's Bokgun.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2009

This study examines plant patterns expressed on the fabrics during the Goryeo Dynasty and many countries in the Chinese continent and analyzes their symbolism and formativeness. This study deals with clothes which is one of the most fundamental aspects in a culture and plant patterns on them; it examines the overall formativeness of plant patterns in East Asia from the 10th century to the 14th century by studying plant patterns in the Goryeo Dynasty and the contemporaneous dynasties in the Chinese continent - Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Western Xia Dynasty, Liao Dynasty, Jin Dynasty and Yuan Dynasty. The plant patterns of each country were categorized by the type of plant. The composition and expression of plant patterns were examined and statistically analyzed. Small flowers were found in Goryeo fabrics twice more than other types that could be clearly identified, and peony was the most popular flower used in Chinese fabrics. In terms of composition of plant patterns, both Goryeo and Chinese fabrics had plant only patterns more frequently than the patterns mixed with animals or jewels. Regarding expression methods of plant patterns, the most common one in Goryeo fabrics was the petal-type, while the branch-type is the most common one in Chinese fabrics. The plant patterns of the Goryeo Dynasty show beauty of simplicity with minimalism and simplification while expressed with brilliant sold threads on dark background, such as purple or light green, so the overall feeling of fabrics was simple yet nobel.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.107-118
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• 2011

Classified Emergency Materia Medica is a pharmacopoeia published by the government of the Song(宋) dynasty. After publishment, it had a decisive effect on East-Asian herbology of China, Korean & Japan. Sakae Miki(三木榮), Tameto Okanisi(岡西爲人) wrote papers on the subjects of type, publishing process, bibliographic terms of Classified Emergency Materia Medica published in the early and middle years of Joseon Dynasty. Moreover, Sakae Miki claimed that Classified Emergency Materia Medica from China had been a standard of herbology of Joseon Dynasty since its publishment, and herbology based on materia medica from countryside(鄕藥) also had occupied a part of herbology in Joseon Dynasty. Nevertheless the specific influences, from Classified Emergency Materia Medica to the medical books of Joseon Dynasty which established the herbology based on materia medica from countryside has never been handled so far. So I would like to investigate the influence of Classified Emergency Materia Medica to Joseon Dynasty, through a comparison with literature review. The main literatures for comparison are two representative medical books of Joseon Dynasty, Compendium of Prescriptions from the Countryside(1433) & Treasured Mirror of Eastern Medicine(1613), especially focusing on the pharmacognostic parts. The main comparing points on researching literatures will be the following: publication year of books; order of herbs; and quotations. This paper will show which edition of Classified Emergency Materia Medica was utilized to publish two medical books of Joseon Dynasty, and the process how Korean herbology based on materia medica from countryside was transformed after accepting Chinese herbology.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 19th International Costume Association Congress
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

R.O.C. has experienced successively the development of previous dynasties that creates out the unique traditional culture of each stage. The Chinese nation is not a one-fold race; each dynasty absorbs the culture of the outside race. It is Tang Dynasty blends mutually however yield unusually brilliant results. The Tang Dynasty's national strength is forceful and the economy is prosperous. Above all, social custom and current of thought both break the constraint of previous dynasties' conservative thinking and keep positive and aggressive. While in the contact with extraterritorial culture, not only changes the feminine social status, but also produces unprecedented innovation and reform on the feminine dress. The Tang Dynasty's varied feminine suit is affected by the western regions of China culture, such as expose of chest, low collar, short top garment and skirt with narrow sleeves or wide sleeves, sleeve gown with plate collar or turndown collar, man's wear, and military dress, etc. An epoch can be known by Tang Dynasty feminine dress's special features, for example, the make-up of Tang-Shien-lon's Uan-Ho period presents dress style of late Tang days. However, the Chinese people compete mutually pursuing the strange costume, and accepting different cultural incitement This reveals that the changes of popular culture would result in the big transform of the Tang's dress style. This paper studies inherit of Tang Dynasty's culture and east-spread of the western regions of China culture. While understanding the Tang's favor in the western regions of China customs, all follow the western regions of China without exception, such as dance music, painting, dress, food, amusement, etc. Because of emperor's progressive race policy and forgiveness attitude to the foreign tribe that makes Tang Dynasty's feminine dress much easier to accept and blend the special features of the foreign tribe culture. While joined with west culture, and pick the dress's essence of the western regions of China, the original possessed of culture consciousness and esthetic sense improve and create their own dress, as well as enrich more inner part of dress art and the spirit.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.112-117
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• 2011

In the present study the meaning of table in the Joseon dynasty period and also in the present age was researched, and its changing according to the times was searched as well. The results are as follows. First, the meaning of table in the Joseon dynasty period and in the present age has one thing, "laying something on table" in common from the functional aspect. Whereas the table in the Joseon dynasty period had the function of laying and keeping articles or decorations, that of the present age contributes to reading and doing office work of human beings and this exceeds the simple function to keep articles, because it touches parts of the human body, so it combines function of comfort accordingly, not only the function of storage. Second, it was differently presented from the aspect of shape. The table of the Joseon dynasty period strongly showed the shelf-like shape due to the set-up in layers, while the table of the modern times has the rectangle-like form in one layer. It has been transformed according to the functional changes. Third, it is different also from the constructive aspect. The table of the Joseon dynasty period had the construction with one panel on 4 legs in layer upon layer, but the table today has one upper panel on legs supporting it. Namely, the term "table" has been constantly used from the Josen dynasty period until today, but it has a totally different meaning according to the times on the basis of the changes in function and shape. In the furniture which maintains the function and shape of the square-typed table with 3 or 4 layers and the book table in the Joseon dynasty but is used under the different term in the present times it can be counted that display cupboard or bookshelf. Furthermore, desk and tea table can be regarded as furniture which exactly corresponds with the term "table" used in the present days, and also in the Joseon dynasty period there were furniture with such same function as like the writing table and small dining table.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.438-449
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• 2013

During the Joseon Dynasty, medicinal foods derived from herbs were often more effective than traditional medicines. In addition, the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty believed that foods could be used as various disease treatments. Grain-based foods, especially medicinal porridges (藥粥), were most frequently used for diet therapy. We investigated various types of diet-related diseases suffered by King Injo (仁祖) as well as how the diseases were treated using medicinal porridges based on information in the SeungjeongwonIlgi (承政院日記), which is the daily record of the Royal Secretariat of the Joseon Dynasty. This study examined the SeungjeongwonIlgi of King Injo from his1st year (1623) to 27th year (1649) on a website database maintained by the National Institute of Korean History. According to the records, King Injo suffered from severe diarrhea several times due mainly to febrile disease (煩熱症) as well as abdominal dropsy (脹滿) throughout his entire life. Major diseases affecting King Injo were due to his unhealthy eating habits and psychological factors. For treatment, royal doctors prescribed around 15 medicinal porridges, including nelumbo (seed) porridge (Yeonja-juk), milk porridge (Tarak-juk), Chinese dioscorea porridge (Sanyak-juk), mungbean porridge (Nokdu-juk), perilla seed porridge (Imja-juk), adzuki-bean porridge (Pat-juk), soybean porridge (Kong-juk), Korean-leek porridge (Buchu-juk), and so on, in addition to other medical treatments. Diet therapy using medicinal porridges has been used throughout history since the Joseon Dynasty period. However, knowledge of traditional diet therapy and medicinal porridges used by monarchs in the Joseon Dynasty is insufficient. Therefore, in-depth study is needed to understand the theory of traditional medicinal foods as well as explore their application to patients in the context of modern medicine.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.45-65
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• 2008

Hoe-amsa temple was renewed by Zen priest Na-ong(1320-76) in the later Goryeo dynasty(918-1392), and he introduced the institution of Zen Buddhism temple of Yuan dynasty(1271-1368) in China. And in 13-14 century, many Zen Buddhism temple were built in east Asia, like China, Japan, Korea and so on. Hoe-amsa temple became to be ruined in the middle years of Joseon dynasty(1392-1910), and the ruin was excavated recently. The purpose of this study is to make a searching examination the history of Hoe-amsa temple by analyzing the historic records and excavation relics, and to clarify the function of Jeongcheong, east Bang-jang and west Bang-jang of Hoe-amsa temple, by comparative analysis with Bang-jang architecture of Zen Buddhism temple of Yuan dynasty. As the result of this study it can be said like follow. Hoe-amsa temple maintained the form made by priest Na-ong in spite of several times of repair in Joseon dynasty, and it was reflected in excavation relics of now. The Jeongcheon of Hoe-amsa temple was the space called Chimdang where the chief priest performed lectures and ceremony, the west Bang-jang was the living space of chief priest, and the east Bang-jang was lodging for honored guest. The architecture composed by Jeongcheong, east Bang-jang and west Bang-jang was the adaptation of institution of Bang-jang architecture of Zen Buddhism temple in Yuan dynasty, on the base of general architecture form of Goryeo dynasty.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.43-58
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• 2018

This paper aims at researching on the substantial characters of the memorial address, namely the mookseo-myeongs(墨書銘), written at the members of the wooden buildings in the late period of Goryeo Dynasty and the early period of JoseonDynasty. In this paper, I pursued to declare the systematic origins by the comparison the Buddhist buildings with the other buildings, on the focused the written patterns. Furthermore, I tried to examine the transitional trends in the late period of Joseon Dynasty. The results are as follow: First, it is supposed that the mookseo-myeongs of the Buddhist buildings were not used for the a memorial address for the ceremony of putting up the ridge beam, so to speak the sangryang-muns(上樑文), but the prayer address(發願文) to memorize the donations of the believers for the constructions. Second, it is supposed that 'the short sangryang-muns' were originated in the mookseo-myeongs of Buddhist buildings and the other ancient prayer address. In the late period of JoseonDynasty, those were established in the formal literary styles. Third, to the early period of JoseonDynasty, 'the long sangryang-muns' were partially used in the several royal palaces. In the late, those were widely used not only in the royal palaces but also in Buddhist buildings, but those literary patterns were rarely changed from the former types.