• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.140-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest the standard size system of Saenghwal Hanbok for design development and popularization. As a sample, 20's and 40's female data among the 1997's National Somatometry Survey data were used because two groups have different somatic characteristics and design tastes with each other. The results are as follows; From t-test of 35 somatometric items in 20's and 40's female data, we knew that the differentiated size system proper to each age is needed. We also knew that the 38 Saenghwal Hanbok brands don't have consistent size system from investigation of size list and size application. From consideration on the number of size for production and coverage rate, we suggested regression formula by bust circumference and stature, and suggested advanced standard size system which are proper to each 20' and 40' female group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.927-934
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• 2014

Today Hanbok, the symbol of our nation's culture, has been preserved as cultural heritage despite natural and social environmental changes over years. This study is analyzing Hanbok which were taken in the National Skills Competition from 2000 to 2013; it presents our traditional stitching methods and clarifies the pride the Hanbok artisans have as inheriting the traditional heritage. Therefore this paper contributes to continuous and proper development of the culture of Hanbok and being loved by many people. The assignments about Hanbok featured in the National Skills Competition were categorized by national and local competition, time required to produce assignments, required amount of fabric, type of stitching, unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignment; according to the classification, methods for sewing were analyzed in detail. First, the national tournament presented 12 kinds of sewing techniques; especially hand-sewn stitching method appeared in common. Second, the unlined and lined clothes depending on the type of assignments had applied different sewing methods; double-stitching, flat fell seam, french seam, roll over sewing, blind stitch, right angle blind stitch, decorative saddle stitching, darning, etc. were used. Sewing methods in the 21st century has not changed over the years; the shape of clothes was changed upon trends. Sewing became easier than before by the invention of sewing machine, we should carry on our traditional sewing techniques. Through this analysis on sewing methods of the National Skills Competition, I hope to support competition participants for studying Hanbok and indicate proper sewing techniques.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.891-904
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• 2014

The objective of this study is to classify somatotypes of back-surface shape of women in their late 20s by using 3D body scan data(Size Korea 2010) in order to improve fitness of Hanbok Jeogori. The results were as follows: 1. According to the in-depth survey of the experienced expert's interview, most problems related to the fit were caused by the back area of Jeogori. 2. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 82.85% of total variance. 3. According to the cluster analysis, back somatotypes of women in their late 20s were categorized by two types : straight type(54.1%) and bending type(46.9%). The results could be used as the Hanbok Jeogori to improve the fitness of back-surface shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.907-921
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• 2013

This study shows the importance of human factors in relationship marketing by revealing the influence of Hanbok salesperson's attributes on relationship quality and long-term relationship orientation at the time when a culture is newly understood. A questionnaire surveyed 376 women living around the Seoul and Daejeon Metropolitan areas from February to March 2013. SPSS WIN 20.0 and AMOS 20.0 programs analyzed the gathered data. We review the influence of Hanbok salesperson's attributes (expertise, ethics, communication skill, customer orientation, similarity, and likeability) on relationship quality and behavioral intention. The research indicates that only customer orientation and Hanbok salesperson's expertise attributes influence relationship quality. All the attributes had a positive influence; in addition, the relationship quality had a significant influence on customer loyalty. However, communication skill, similarity, and likeability did not influence relationship quality. Customer orientation, which provides a customized service based on the recognition of individual customer trends and expertise in developing a relationship with customers, are important factors to form relationship quality and loyalty.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.45-59
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• 2020

In the 1950s, Korea was forced to rely on foreign aid, relief supplies, and contraband because of the Korean War. At the same time, Western culture also flowed into the country rapidly, which is believed to have had a great impact on the Korean clothing culture of the time. It is thought that this trend could be found in magazines and newspapers of the time. In the 1950s, newspapers served as the main channel for information acquisition and dissemination. I would like to analyze this tendency focusing on a newspaper article in the Dong-A Ilbo in the 1950s. According to the article, the hanbok was viewed as an old custom that needed to be improved or old clothes that had to be changed to Western clothes. As a result, the doubles system of both hanbok and Western clothes collapsed, and hanbok changed to an evening or ceremonial dress. From the 1960s, Korean fashion quickly changed to a more western style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.