• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.232-246
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate aesthetic characteristics and aesthetic consciousness of the style that European fashion(Paris, London, Netherlands) has accepted the since $19^{th}$ century. The mode Japonisme's development process in around $20^{th}$ century and 21st century has 6 characteristics as follows; 1. Accepting kimono as dressing gown 2. Accepting kimono as Japanese style's objet of Japanese taste 3. Accepting Japanese textile's skills, patterns, and asymmetry. 4. Accepting kimono's formative nature : flat pattern, flexibility, style etc. 5. Shocking of Japanese style's beauty 6. Accepting characters and casual wear Japanese aesthetic consciousness expressed on unconstructed design or deconstructed design that is the aesthetic characteristic of Japanese fashion is , , and the aesthetic consciousness expressed on Zen(Seon) style, cartoons of character fashion, and costume play is .

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제36권
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• pp.241-266
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• 2003

Glass pieces excavated from Mireuksa Temple dated $7^{th}$ century A.D. were characterized by chemical composition, specific gravity and melting point. Lead isotope ratios of lead glasses were also compared with those of lead ore to attribute which lead ore was delivered for making lead glass. It was known that some lead glasses found in Japan were similar with those of Mireuksa Temple as comparing the data of chemical composition and lead isotope ratios. Characteristics of lead glass from Mireuksa Temple Thirty five glass pieces of Mireuksa Temple were analyzed for five oxides and found that all was lead glass system(PbO-$SiO_2$) with the range of 70~79% for PbO and 20~28% for $SiO_2$. The concentrations of oxides such as $Al_2O_3$, $Fe_2O_3$ and CuO were below 0.4%, 0.3% and 0.9%, respectively. Principal component analysis(PCA) as a statistical method was carried out to classify glasses with the similarities of chemical concentrations. The result of PCA has shown that three groups of glasses were created according to the excavation positions and two major oxides(PbO and $SiO_2$) greatly contributed to the dispersion of glasses on principal component 1(PC1) axis and trace element oxides($Al_2O_3$ and $Fe_2O_3$) for PC2 axis. Most of lead glasses were greenish by the efficacy of iron and copper oxides and some showed yellowish-green. The gravity of lead glasses was about 4.4~5.4 and estimated melting point was near $670^{\circ}C$. Lead isotope ratios of glasses were analyzed and found quite close to a lead ore from the Bupyeong mine in Gyeonggi-do. Comparison with lead glasses found in Japan Lead glasses of Mireuksa Temple were compared with those of Japan on the basis of chemical and physical data. Chemical compositions of Japanese lead glasses dated $7^{th}{\sim}8^{th}$ century A.D. were nearly similar with those of Mireuksa Temple but lead isotope ratios of those were separated into two groups. Three distribution maps of lead ores of Korea, Japan and China with lead isotope ratios were applied for lead glasses found in Japan. The result have shown that the locations of lead glasses from Fukuoka Prefecture coincided with the region of northen part of Korea and similar with those of Mireuksa Temple and lead glasses from Nara Prefecture dated $8^{th}$ century A.D. were located in the region of Japanese lead ore. This research has demonstrated that lead glasses of Mireuksa Temple conveyed to Miyajidake site, Fukuoka Prefecture around $7^{th}$ century A.D. and glass melting pots and glass beads excavated from Nara Prefecture confirmed the first use of Japanese lead ore for production of lead glasses from the end of $7^{th}$ century A.D.

• 복식
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• 제15권
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• pp.177-194
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• 1990

Koh(袴) was a type of dress worn on the lower part of the body which was commonly used in the Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of nomadism or hunting. The origin of the Koh which appeared in the area would be found from the trousers of the Huns who influenced in the Northeast Asia, and became in the part of the Scythian culture. The Scythians are the nomadizing race inhabited in the Northern Caucasas on the wast of the Black Sea and influenced on the inland Eurasian steppe as the first typical horse-riding race. The objectives of Koh which had been worn in the Scythian, Mongolia, Korea as well as Japan as a part of Dongho dress and ornaments and to contemplate the transmission process by cultural exchange among different races for the period from 4th century to 7th century. 1. The Origination of the Koh The Koh was originated by the environmental factor to protect the cold in the North but also from the heat in the South, and was changed and developed as gradually satisfying to the needs of the times. In the Northeast Asia the Koh was in the class of the Northern Chinese garment, and was used widely by the horse riding Scythians who moved widely from the Eurasian inland to Japan. The oldest original which could reflect the type of the Northern clothes was a pair of trousers discovered in the Huns remains of Noin Ula. This showed the exact form of hunting clothes and had a similar form with the Korean female tro-users. Since the same form of trousers drawn on the wall painting of which was excavated 4-5th century ancient Koguryo(高句麗) tomb was the same form the trousers of Noin Ula seemed to be the original form of Koh in the Northeast Asia. 2. The Chinese Trousers It was the time of the King Mooryung(武靈王) in the Cho(趙) Dynasty B.C. 3th century that the trousers used regularly in China. However, the Koh had been used as undergarment which functioned for the protection of the cold not the horseriding garment. The trousers seemed to be not very obviously shown off since the Poh (袍) was long, but mainly used by the people from lower class. As people learned the adapted the trousers. It was essential for the times of war and quarrel. The king himself started wearing the Koh. The Chinese trousers were influenced by the Huns, the Northern clothes of the Scythian culture, and similar to the Korean clothes. 3. The Korean Trousers Korean was a race bared from the Eastern foreign group. It was obvious that the clothes was Baji-Jeogori(바지 저고리), the garment of the Northern people. This had the same form of the Scythian dress and ornaments which was excavated from the Mongolian Noin Ula. The Scythian dress and ornaments were influenced from the Ancient West Asia Empire and transmitted to the Northeast Koguryu by the horseriding Scythian. The trousers were kept in the traditional style by the common people in Korea were transmitted to Japan which were for behind in cultural aspect, as well as got used to the Chinese as the efficient clothes though active cultural exchange. 4. The Japanese Trousers The ancient Japanese clothes were influenced by the Southern factor but not the form of the Koh. As the Korean people group was moving towards Japan and conquer the Japanese in the 4-5th century, however, North Altaic culture was formed and at the same time the clothes were also developed. The most influenced clothes at this time were those of Baekge(百濟) and the trousers form called Euigon became the main form. Because of the climatic regional factor, it was tied not at the ankle but under the knee. From the view the ancient Japanese clothes disappeard about that time, it could be due to the conquest of the culturally superior race but not the transmission of the culture. In the latest 7th century both the Chinese and Japanese dress forms were present, but the Dongho(東胡) dress and its ornament from Korea was still the basic of the Japanese dress form.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.300-309
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• 2022

This study analyzed food poisoning articles in the Joseonwangjosillok to acquire historical evidence. The study method used case studies from the textual content of the Joseonwangjosillok. In all, there were fifteen cases of food poisoning in spring (60%), four cases in summer (16%), five cases in fall (20%), and 1 case during winter (4%). Most cases of food poisoning occurred during spring, followed by fall, then summer, and the least during winter. Foods that caused poisoning were as follows: twelve cases of seafood (48%), three cases of vegetables (12%), two cases of meat (8%), and eight cases of poisonous food (32%). Maximum cases pertained to seafood poisoning, which also spiked during spring. This could be attributed to the increased number of planktons as the sea temperature rose during spring. Due to the increased plankton, shellfish absorbed more toxins. The consumption of increasingly toxic shellfish resulted in more cases of food poisoning. The food poisoning frequency was the most severe during the 18th century, followed sequentially by the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries, and was the least severe during the 19th century. Joseonwangjosillok showed that food poisoning cases happened most during social events where many guests or family members gathered to eat.

• 한국수학사학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2009

17세기에 서양 수학이 조선에 들어온 이래 조선에 가장 큰 영향을 끼친 산서는 수리정온(數理精蘊)이었다. 19세기 말 조선에서 신교육이 시작되면서 수리정온(數理精蘊)이후의 서양 수학을 가르치게 되었다. 이 때 일본을 거쳐서 들어온 서양 수학은 주로 교과서로 나타난다. 이 논문은 독립 운동가로 잘 알려진 이상설(李相卨)의 저서인 수리(數理)를 조사하여 19세기 말 선교사를 통하여 서양 수학이 조선에 전해지는 과정을 알아본다. 특히 이상설(李相卨)이 조선 산학의 대수학 분야에서 중요한 변화와 발전을 이루어 낸 것을 밝혀낸다.

• 복식
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.76-97
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

• 터널과지하공간
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.273-281
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• 1999

• Architectural research
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.193-202
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• 2014

This research started from the premise that Jacques Perret, "Savoyard gentleman" of the 17th century - whose only legacy consists of Des fortifications et artifices, a book of fortified town designs - is still an elusive figure in the history of architecture and deserves to be further investigated. In particular, attention needs to be paid to the lack of any attempt by scholars to define his actual professional status and cultural background: was he an architect, an engineer, a professional or an amateur? The intention of this paper is therefore to shed some light on this question by examining selected contents of his book describing five projects of fortified towns. Plates and descriptions are carefully analyzed related to the engineering (defensive structures) and architectural (city layouts, buildings) content. The figure that emerges is that of an articulate personality who does not fit either in the architectural or in the military engineering professional world. In the field of engineering, he simultaneously demonstrated the competence of a professional and the na$\ddot{i}$vety of an immature technician, while in the field of architecture he showed an advanced creativity alongside several technical and theoretical misunderstandings. From the analysis in this study, the assumption is formulated that Jacques Perret was a connoisseur, i.e. an erudite without any direct involvement in real professional activity. This work is intended to provide a hypothesis for further researches that, hopefully, will deepen our understanding of several other aspects of Perret's complex identity and work.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.1-24
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• 2019

Bloody wars between Arab Muslims and Khazar Turks in the Caucasus continued for a more than a hundred years from the mid $7^{th}$ century to the end of the $8^{th}$ century CE. The Khazar state survived but had to withdraw from Caucasian Albania, the present territory of the Republic of Azerbaijan. However, the Khazars managed to expand their political control over the trade routes north-east and north-west of the Caucasian ridge. A trade partnership was established between former rival powers in the region that allows us to call the period after the end of the Arab-Khazar wars up to the time of the collapse of the Khazar state in the middle of the 10th century an era of Arab-Khazar partnership and domination of the Silk Road. This article highlights the impact made by geopolitical shifts in the regions of the time upon international trade tracks and particularly on the development of trade facilities, infrastructure, and local production in Azerbaijan, which became a major transit country of goods from the north to markets in the Muslim Near East.