• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
• /
• v.24 no.4
• /
• pp.535-550
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate changes in the cooking process of $Bibimbab$(cooked rice mixed with various ingredients) appeared in cook books published after Korean modern era, approximately from late 19th century to the present. 7 cook books were chosen to be analyzed. It is found that the ingredients were mixed with the rice before being served in the cook books written in late 19th century until mid 20th century, while the ingredients were separately decorated on top of the rice in the cook books written from mid 20th century until late 20th century. $Gochujang$(Korean chilly paste), which is common spicy seasoning for $Bibimbab$ in the present time, appeared only in $Hangukeumak$(1987) which is written in late 20th century. Prior to $Hangukeumak$(1987), chilly powder or chilly was used for chilly-based spicy seasoning. Cook books written in late 19th century until mid 20th century, ingredients used for $Bibimbab$ had complicated cooking methods such as $Jeonyueo$(assorted pan-fried delicacies), $Nurumi$(fried beef skewer with various vegetables) and $Sanjeok$(grilled beef skewer). From mid 20th century until late 20th century, among the cook books analyzed in this research, only $Hankukyoribaekguasajeon$(1976) suggested $Jeonyueo$ as an ingredient, and in general, the cooking method for preparing beef became simpler. For further studies, firstly, the cooking procedures used for $Bibimbab$ in the prior period to the Korean modern era need to be examined for more information about the changes of cooking style of $Bibimbab$. Secondly, new $Bibimbab$ recipes for modern restaurants could be created by using the recipes used in the historical cook books. Finally, the definitions of culinary terms used in historical cook books need to be clarified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.71-85
• /
• 2003

The costume of the 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the graves of Tong-Rae Jwg Clan are studied in this paper. The remaining were used for filling up the coffin consists of 1 piece of Dopo(도포) from the grave of Jung, Kwang-Kyung, 7 pieces of Joongchimak(중적막), 1 piece of Sochng-eui(소창의), and 1 piece of pants from the grave of Jae-Hoo Jung, grand-son of Kwang-Kyung Jung. From these remainings, this study newly reveals or confirms : 1) Standards of transition Procedure of mid-l7th century's Dopo with gussets, 2) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Joongchimak with wide sleeves and side slits, 3) Standards of transition procedure of late 17th century's Sochang-eui with narrow sleeves and side slits, 4) Typical style of pants in the 17th century, 5) The constructive methods for quilted fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.90-106
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the development of eyeglasses and design transition in materials and types through literature survey. The scope of this study on the basis of the 15th century, for this study survey reaches from the 15th century to modern. The result of this study were as follows. Real magnifying glasses was first mentioned by the Arab physicist al-Hazen who was famous of his treatise on optics. The oldest documents which explicitly refer to the art of making lenses for eyeglasses and magnifying glasses were the Venetian artisans of 1300. In the 15th century someone thought to remedy the unstability of glasses by securing the bridge on the forehead. But it was only in the 17th century that someone contrived to stabilize the frame by strapping it on the face by means of fine cords that reached behind the ears. Eventually in the early years of the 18th century the English optician Edward Scarlett invented the rigid earpieces which solved once and for all the problem of holding the eyeglasses firmly in place. In the 19th century, eyeglasses' fashion were monocle and pince-nez. In the 20th century, various lenses and frames were appeared. Therefore eyeglasses to correct defective sight, sun-glasses, as well as a most succesful item among modern fashion accessories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.38 no.1
• /
• pp.26-37
• /
• 2023

This study applied the text frequency method to analyze the crops prevalent during the Chosunwangjoshilrok dynasty, and categorized the results by each king. Contemporary perception of grains was observed by examining the staple crop types. Staple species were examined using the word cloud and semantic network analysis. Totally, 101,842 types of crop consumption were recorded during the Chosunwangjoshilrok period. Of these, 51,337 (50.4%) were grains, 50,407 (49.5%) were beans, and 98 (0.1%) were seeds. Rice was the most frequently consumed grain (37.1%), followed by pii (11.9%), millet (11.3%), barley (4.5%), proso (0.8%), wheat (0.6%), buckwheat (0.1%), and adlay (0.05%). Grain chronological frequency in the Choseon dynasty was determined to be 15,520 cases in the 15^th century (30.2%), 11,201 cases in the 18^th century (21.8%), 9,421 cases in the 17^th century (18.4%), 9,113 cases in the 16^th century (17.8%), and 6,082 cases in the 19^th century (11.8%). Interest in grain amongst the 27 kings of Choseon was evaluated based on the frequency of records. The 15^th century King Sejong recorded the maximum interest with 13,363 cases (13.1%), followed by King Jungjo (8,501 cases in the 18^th century; 8.4%), King Sungjong (7,776 cases in the 15^th century; 7.6%).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.33
• /
• pp.73-88
• /
• 1997

In old Korea from the 4th century of 6th cen-tury the lapels of You and upper garment folded slightly. It had tight sleeves and its length was not long reaching to the hips. but from the 7th century the sleeve of You became wider and its length became longer, Chinese You folded very deeply across the breast and its sleeve was tight. The length of Chinese You was short too strectching out to the hips. From the 5th century the sleeve of the Chinese You became wider Chinese trousers with wide crotch appeared in the 4th century during the time when Ezst Jin Dyn-asty ruled China. The upper garments with the wide sleeve was common by the 7th century in China. What is specially noteworthy is that Short-dalnyung appeared in the 5th ∼6th century. In old Korea strings were used to tie the bottoms of the trousers. Trousers with tight crotch did not need the strins. korean trousers with wide lines were narrower than the Chinese trousers at the bottom and it was not necessary to use the strings for people to put them on In China there were both of wide trousers and tight trousers. People tied trousers around the kness with the strings in the formal places but they did not tied the trousers with the strings when they wore the ordinary clothes. Chinese trousers were very wide just like a skirt and they were much wider than wide Korean trousers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.39 no.4
• /
• pp.1-18
• /
• 2001

Korea huts been dramatically changed during the last century in many aspect of society, with the introduction of western culture in the beginning of 20th century. This study aims at understanding the changes in our traditional culture shown by costume as well as examining the aspects of the changes of traditional clothing according to age, by comparing the differences of our traditional dress Hanbok between ear1y and the late of the 20th century. Analysis of photographs showing Hanbok of both ages was used. 155 photographs of people wearing traditional Hanbok in the beginning of the 20th century were collected from the photo collection books portraying various living conditions of common people at that time. 748 Photographs of Hanbok worm today were obtained by taking pictures of various occasions like wedding ceremonies in 5 big cities during 1997. The process of analysis consists of 3 stages: setting standards, sorting, and grouping by positioning. The results showed that traditional Hanbok room in the early 20th century has maintained its basic silhouette and design during the century, but the methods of color coordination, ornamentation, construction have underdone many changes in detail. Consequently, traditional frame exits, but actually there are many variations of tradition produced by individual tastes and fashion trend. These changes show that continuing influx of the western culture which has made enormous social changes in Korea had an influence even on Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.4
• /
• pp.117-137
• /
• 2011

This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-ju(細), Si(總)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東弟] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史)of Japan from the $4^{th}$ century to the early $10^{th}$ century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the $8^{th}$ century and Sllla(新羅) of the $9^{th}$ century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the $10^{th}$ century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the $7^{th}$ century and it was rapidly spread in the $8^{th}$ century. In the $9^{th}$ century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(細) and Si(總)in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the $8^{th}$ century to the $9^{th}$ century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the $9^{th}$ century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early $8^{th}$ century. As the foreign relation between Sllia and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-$8^{th}$ century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.79-90
• /
• 2021

Since its construction in the late 14th century, Hanyangdoseong had been carried out three major repairs and reconstructions during the 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty. In addition to the large-scale construction, small-scale construction continued until King Gojong era. In particular, in the 18th century, systematic construction management was implemented by the craftsmen and the military participated in the renovation of Hanyangdoseong in earnest, and the construction methods also developed rapidly. In the early 18th century, new construction techniques were attempted in various sections of the reconstruction work, and gradually became a common technology for repairing Hanyangdoseong in the late 18th century. The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics and period of changes in the 18th century's construction technique, when the rapid development of Hanyangdoseong took place. To this end, the excavation results related to Hanyangdoseong, the remaining city wall, and the inscribed stones were used to identify and demonstrate the characteristics and change of the construction method.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.26 no.4
• /
• pp.19-34
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.99-109
• /
• 2007

In the 19th century, a series of study by Hittorff, Semper, Ruskin, and others on architectural polychromy in various perspectives appeared. This presumed that the architectural polychromy could become an essential part of architectural composition and contribute to create new architectural style, if not, at least new architectural and cultural context of the 19th century, the period when it is considered that the stylistic evolution in architecture is absent. In the course of the stylistic development of church architecture of the 19th century in France, the architectural polychromy, grounded in a theory of representation, played a critical role as one of the main sources to create new architectural vision. The church architecture during the Second Empire in France was particularly susceptible to be influenced by this inevitable phenomenon, which signified an epistemological mutation in architectural perception beyond optical and perspective effect in the history of architecture. Here the study attempts to recognize the aesthetic value of the architectural polychromy in the 19th century, and investigate its application, as not just an aspect of architectural embellishment but an indispensable portion of architectural vocabulary, on the church architecture in France throughout the 19th century, then to define its role in creating new architectural environment.