• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.766-777
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• 2012

The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

• 복식
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• 제62권4호
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• pp.15-31
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• 2012

This study is intended to understand the styles, colors and color arrangements of costumes expressed on Kisan Kim Jun-geun's genre paintings of Joseon in the late 19th century. The paintings vary according to the status and gender of the person wearing the costume as well as the time period and different situations the person belongs to. Also, this study aims to examine the meaning and value of Kisan's paintings in terms of the history of Korean costumes. The result of this study are as follows: The basic and common attire for people of all status and class is the jeogori(jacket), baji(pants) for men and Banhoijang jeogori, chima(skirt) for women. Men wear Po(coat) that represents their status and age, and they put on various hats according to different weather conditions or work-skill even when in the same status and class. However, women wear the Baeja(vest), Durumagi(coat) and head-dresses when they are cold. Overall, the costume patterns and shapes that appear on Kisan's paintings show the same patterns and structures when compared to different data during the same time period. Thus, they provide useful information to help not only understand the changes of patterns and structures of costumes, but also the situations and emotions of the people of that time period. Moreover, it can be understood that various colors and color arrangements that reflect the situations and emotions of the late 19th century were used. This study that analyses the colors and color arrangements used in Kisan's genre paintings can provide the very basic and systematically arranged data to help understand the unique colors in Korea. These data can also provide important information to understand the use of dyes and pigments during that time. Therefore, Kisan's genre paintings are meaningful and valuable in terms of the history of Korean costumes for these are the data, from which we can review the costumes, colors and color arrangements in the years from 1890 to 1910.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.91-100
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the influence of T-shirt as a movie costume on the modem mass fashion. The way of study is to analyze the changes of men's image with T-shirt as Hollywood actors costume in 50's and 60's. The costumes create the characters with meanings and symbols moreover they lead fashion as well as promoting artistic value of films. At the end of the 19th century, this shirt learnt the ropes in the U.S. Navy well before it won the hearts of sportsmen and workers alike, with its twin virtues of comforts and hygiene. When American soldiers returned home after World War II showing their T-shirts in the sweltering heat of the Tropics, their shirts were as heroic as they were. Furthermore the new stars of Hollywood, going by such names as Marlon Brando and James Dean, gave the T-shirt its rebel cachet and showed the whole world. Be it tom open on Marlon Brando's torso in Elia Kazan's 'A Streetcar Named Desire', or peeping out dazzlingly white from under James Dean's red jacket in 'Rebel Without a Cause', the T-shirt flaunted its sexuality and emanated the sweet smell or revolt. It would be the banner of rebellion for a whole generation. The T-shirt had finally found its way into the history of fashion and was there to stay.d was there to stay.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.261-277
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• 1998

This study is focused on two things, on the matter of judge's robe(JR) which is worn in the court. First, Korean JR were examined from late 19th century through today(1997)to reveal the entity of the JR : characteristics of each JR has been changed according to the political or international influences. Second, JR from 92 countries were collected and analyzed to figure out the plastic characteristics of the JR among international society. The results are as follows : First, Korean JR were have changed many times according to the social, political influences. The Korean modern judicial system were proclaim in 1895 and JR were adapted in 1906. In 1920, Japanese style JR were worn until 1945 when Korean government have had her Independence. Korean Government have changed JR through which Korean identities were expressed through patterns such as national flower Mukungwha(Hibiscus) and Yang & Yin. In 1966 Korean JR were changed again and adopted western style JR until today (1997) which have many things in common with academic robe of university or clerical robe. Second, the analysis of the 92 international JR were summarized as follows : (1) The JR were consisted of three styles such as Gown style, Cape style and Jacket style. And Gown style has been found as the most popular style(86%) for JR among them. (2) As the main color of JR, black is used among 60% of countries and red is used in 33% of countries. Gold were matched for black JR and gray for red JR as their sub-color. (3) The most popular material were wool and satin were favored as its sub-materials. (4) Natural and Geometric Patterns were used to express the symbol of the country and the court. (5) Decorative items and details such as hat, gloves, shoes, wig, necklace, neck-tie, stole, tassels, rope, ruffles were used to express wearers dignity and symbolism. These results are expected to be adapted for the future design for new JR which has its identity and characteristics.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• 복식
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• 제35권
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• pp.45-66
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• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.