Volume 2 Issue 1
-
Protection mechanisms for skin damage of ultraviolet (UV) absorbers in personal care products for protection against UV are well studied, but not for hair protection. The purpose of this study is to describe and compare the changes of physical property produced in human hair by doses of the UV-B exposure causing protein degradation. To observe the change of physical properties in hair, the experimental intensity of UV-B exposure has been established on the basis of statistical data from official meterological administration as daily one hour sunlight exposure for two weeks. Polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), and octocrylene were employed for UV-B absorber, and those were treated to hair swatch by rubbing wash through shampoo and conditioner. Bending rigidity displayed kinetically successive reduction at high doses of UV exposure up to the 8,000 s, and exhibited different level at each sample of UV-B absorber. However, the values of Bossa Nova Technologies (BNT) for shinning factor were already saturable at the 2,000 s exposure except that treated with polysilicone-15. The differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to measure a strength of inner protein produces a successive reduction of enthalpy as like a reduction of bending rigidity upon UV exposure. Surface roughness from lateral force microscope (LFM) acquired immediately after UV exposure show a saturable frictional voltage which has been also found in a saturable BNT data as the time of UV exposure increases. Through researching the DSC and the LFM, shinning of hair was much correlated to the protein damage at the surface, and bending rigidity could be regulated by the protein structural damage inside hair. Therefore, the optimization of efficient strategy for simultaneous prevention of hair protein on the surface and internal hair was required to maintain physical properties against UV.
-
Choi, Wonkyung;Son, Seongkil;Song, Sang-Hun;Kang, Nae Gyu;Park, Sun-gyoo 11
The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of various pentapeptides on hair repair depending on the characteristics of comprising amino acids using crosslinking agents in hair. Total ten peptides were synthesized with two kinds of amino acids respectively, of which were previously categorized according to R group of the amino acids contributing to the characteristic of each peptide: STTSS (Ser-Thr-Thr-Ser-Ser), LIILL (Leu-Ile-Ile-Leu-Leu), CMMCC (Cys-Met-Met-Cys-Cys), DEEDD (Asp-Glu-Glu-Asp-Asp), RKKRR (Arg-Lys-Lys-Arg-Arg), TAMRA-STTSS, TAMRA-LIILL, TAMRA-CMMCC, TAMRA-DEEDD, and TAMRA-RKKRR. Pentapeptide alone, or pentapeptides with crosslinking agents such as polymeric carbodiimide (PCI) and 1-ethyl-3-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) carbodiimide (EDC) were treated to chemically damaged hair. Hair diameter and break strength (N = 40/case) were measured to calculate tensile strength of hair for computing hair repair ratio, and fluorescence yields (N = 20/case) were collected for hair treated with TAMRA-peptides. The tensile strength of hair treated with pentapeptides alone, or pentapeptides with cross-linking agents is consistent with the fluorescence yield from the microscope images of the cross-sectioned hair in vision and in numerical values. Pentapeptides consisting of hydrophobic amino acids (LIILL), amino acids with sulfur (CMMCC), and basic amino acids (RKKRR) increased the tensile strength in perm-damaged hair. Pentapeptides with no extra carboxyl/amine groups in R group of amino acids resulted in no significant differences in hair strength and fluorescence yield among hairs treated with alone and with crosslinkers. Pentapeptides with extra carboxyl groups or amine groups enabled further strengthening of hair due to increased bonds within the hair after carbodiimide coupling reaction. The hair repairs of pentapeptides with various amino acid sequences were studied using crosslinking. Depending on the physical characteristics of comprising amino acids, the restoration of damaged hair was observed with tensile strength of hair and fluorescence signals upon cross-sectioned hair in parallel to possibly understand the binding tendency of each pentapeptide within the hair. -
The aim of this study is to develop a sunscreen stick formulation technology with excellent water resistance and washability. Consumers' needs for sunscreen products are diversifying. Water resistance and ease of washing are both important factors in sunscreen products. However, it is difficult to develop a sunscreen formulation that satisfies these two factors at the same time, because these two elements are in conflict. Fatty acid has a hydrophobic property against the water with low or neutral pH, but when it contacts with soapy water which has high pH, saponification occurs and the fatty acids become surfactants and can be dispersed in the water. Using the reaction characteristics of fatty acids, we can make sunscreen that is highly resistant to water or sweat, but is only selectively removed from soapy water. We found that the sunscreen stick containing fatty acids had better water resistance and washability than the sunscreen sticks without fatty acid. The sunscreen stick containing fatty acids showed a tendency to improve water resistance by scattering ultraviolet rays of long wavelength area by forming insoluble precipitation with divalent ions in tap water after immersion. In addition, an increase in the fatty acid content tended to also increase the ease of cleaning the sunscreen stick. Solid fatty acid was advantageous in improving water resistance than liquid fatty acid, but there was no difference between solid fatty acids and liquid fatty acid in washability. When it comes to stability, the sunscreen stick using liquid fatty acids maintained a high hardness and melting point, and showed no sweating. Based on this study, it is possible to develop an easy washable sunscreen stick formulation technology that has excellent water resistance but is selectively removed only in soapy water.
-
Cosmetics are representative complex fluids, and there have been many studies focusing on the correlation between the rheological properties and sensory attributes. Various instrumental measurements have been suggested to evaluate the sensory attributes, and one of the most common instruments is Texture Analyzer (TA). Although it is reported that the adhesiveness measured by TA is related to the stickiness of cosmetics, there exists reproducibility problem because measurements with TA are sensitive to application conditions. In this study, an instrumental protocol using rotational rheometer has been set up to measure the stickiness of cosmetics. This protocol consists of two steps. The first step is a preconditioning step, and various types of shear deformations are applied to the samples. The next step is the extensional flow and the axial force is measured. When the amplitude of the shear flow corresponded to the linear viscoelastic region, the axial force is the same as those without preconditioning. On the other hand, an axial force decreases as variation nonlinearity increases. It is because the effects of microstructure changes caused by nonlinear deformation affects the extensional flow. It is worth noting that a new protocol facilitates to evaluate the stickiness of cosmetics in a more systematic way.