Tile purposes of this study were to find out any significant relations among body image, needs for body modification, self concept, and some selected clothing behaviors of two age group females using social comparison theory as the research background. The sampling method was a convenient sampling, and the subjects were 56 females aged from 20 to 24 years and 54 females aged from 40 to 49 years. The quasi-experiment and survey were conducted from May 1 to June 30, 2002. The results of tile study were as follows. First, the perceptual body image is more important than measured body size and ideal body size in body image. Apart from measurement instrument, people who perceived slim had higher self concept, exhibition and conformity of clothing. Second, there were significant differences between the two age groups(twenties and forties) in needs for plastic modification, self concepts and clothing behaviors. The younger age group exhibited higher need for modification than the older age group and the younger group also showed higher self concept, higher interests in clothing and fashion, more exhibition tendency and conformity to clothing.

The purpose of this study is to interpret the elegant dressing visualized in modem fashion on the basis of the concept of elegance in dress and its aesthetic characteristics from the holistic viewpoint. Elegance in dress is based upon the idea of aristocratic taste cultivated by good breeding, considering from the documentary study. It is expressed visually through not only the carefully contrived dress but also a sort of aura of dressed body with skillful ease. The aesthetic values of elegance consist of luxury, nobility, refinement, femininity, harmony. To grasp the trends of elegant styles since 1990s, contents analysis of the articles related to elegance in Vogue has been done. As a result, they have been classified into four groups of elegant styles which are Classic, Elaborate Couture, Soft Minimalism, Kitsch Elegance. Classic Elegance and Elaborate Couture Elegance represent traditional ones with conservative viewpoint. Soft Minimalism Elegance is a modem version of elegance. According to postmodernism as a open system, even kitsch has been refined to keep accompany with elegance fur aristocratic taste of high class. As a result of this study, in fashion from the 16th century to the first half of 16th century, elegance has been one of the significant aesthetic categories, resulting from the absolute domination of taste of high society. However in the end of 20th century it seems to start to fade in fashion trends such as mass fashion, youth culture, casual fashion etc. Rather, it can be thought that elegance has been expressed as one of the aesthetic values in dress, by virtue of its value of high class as well as its conservative stability.

This study aims to suggest new directions for the development of make-up design by understanding characteristics of deconstruction make-up and to search for new directions and methods in theme expressions and design conceptions by making illustrations with deconstruction themes. This study examines conceptual characteristics of Derrida's deconstruction, and analyzes the various deconstruction make-up styles through the famous fashion magazines such as Beauty Collection, Collections, Fem, Modain, and Vogue since 1997. The make-up illustration works in this study were made depending on these styles. At first, the nature of deconsouction make-up can be explained as deconstruction of existing methods, deconstruction of the sexes and deconstruction of history or ethnicity. The deconstruction of existing methods can be subdivided into decadence make-up, detester make-up, graphic make-up and collage make-up. Deconstruction of the sexes can be explained androgynous make-up. Deconstruction of history or ethnicity is subdivided into white makeup, ancient Egyptian dark eye make-up and raceless make-up. The deconstruction make-up illustrations present infinite possibilities in expression styles through three dimensional expressions and media mixture using not only drawing materials including watercolor, poster-color, and color pencils but also objets including magazines, coarse fabrics, screentone, beads, suede, sand and so on. The study shows that since deconstruction make-up illustrations are not limited to depiction-centered expressions, they serve creating unique images and future inspirations.

The purpose of this study was to identify the categories and contents of the cognitive inferences of both men and women regarding the style and color of clothing. The study was conducted by survey method, using open-ended questions. The data were collected from 420 male/female university students and analyzed by the qualitative method. The main results are as follows: First, cognitive inferences are formed from stereotypes that fall into six categories--appearance, personality, background, behavior, situation, and reaction. Second, there are some differentiations in these stereotypes depending on clothing style and color. Specifically, the amount of exposure represented in the clothing style is a salient features, one that shows situational attribution. Third, the strength of stereotype differs depending on the sex of perceivers: women indicate a stronger tendency to stereotype-based on clothing-than do men. In conclusion, each of cognitive inferences occurs between wearer and the actual perceiver. Stereotypes are important determining factors fDr making cognitive inferences.

The purpose of this study was to identify the relationships among physical growth, body criticism from others, sociocultural attitude toward physical appearance, body image, self-esteem, and clothing attitudes. The data were collected from 439 junior high school girls living in Seoul, Korea, via a self-administered questionnaires, and were analyzed by factor analysis and LISREL models. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Among three sub-variables of physical growth, the height had a positive effect on the affective aspect of body image. 2) The body criticism from others had the effect neither on the sociocultural attitude toward physical appearance nor on the affective aspect of body image. 3) The sociocultural attitude toward physical appearance had a negative effect on the affective aspect of body image and a positive effect on the cognitive/behavioral aspect of body image. 4) The affective aspect of body image had a positive effect on the cognitive/behavioral aspect of body image, self-esteem, and clothing attitude. However, the cognitive/behavioral aspect of body image had the effect on clothing attitude. 5) The self-esteem had no significant effect on clothing attitudes.

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

This study was inquiry into wearing condition and satisfaction of Saenghwal Hanbok uniform for Korean restaurant's employees. For this Purpose to be fulfilled survey was carried out to the managers and employees who are working in Korean traditional restaurants located in Seoul, and the reality of wearing Saenghwal Hanbok uniforms and the employees's satisfaction were considered. It taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. The analysis was executed involving Simple Analysis, Correlation Analysis, Independent Samples T-test, Paired Comparison, ANOVA, and Duncun Test using SPSS. The report shows that buyers get two pieces style of skirt ($74\%$) and they are buying from Hanbok shops ($58\%$), or from uniform shops ($21\%$). It is almost impossible to see that employees' opinion is reflected in the uniform design since the decisions are made by either Senior manager or General Manager. Based on the result of this survey, followings should be taken into consideration when designing Hanbok uniforms for Korean traditional restaurants. Firstly, a design should reflect a sphere and a radiuses of action throughout a grasp of the type of restaurant, such as the type of sitting and whether there are stairs or not, and the type of service in charge, and so on. Secondly, considerations on the fabrics in terms of sweat absorption, tactility, weight and so on should be prioritized emphasizing a functional aspect. Thirdly, a sleeve should be narrower and shorter, and the skirt should be less wide and not crease easily. Lastly, a Geogori should be knot-button on with care in order not to be opened and a skirt should be zipped up.

This study was carried out to evaluate the biodegradability of viscose rayon and lyocell fibers, employing soil burial test, activated sludge test and enzymatic hydrolysis. Using X-ray analysis, crystallinity and morphology change was investigated. External changes after degradation were also observed by SEM and digital photographs. Vscose rayon fibers exhibited higher biodegadation than lyocell fibers, indicating that lower crystallinity favored the biodegradation. Among the biodegradability of lyocell fibers there was a tendency that fibers with lower crystallinity and higher moisture regain had higher values. When external changes after degradation being observed, it was shown that there were microorganisms growing on the surfaces of samples accompanying lading and weakening. From these results it was concluded that biodegradability of the specimens was most closely correlated to the moisture regain and crystallinity of fibers which reflects hydrophilicity and internal structure.

The purpose of this study identifies effect of apparel merchandise characteristics on experienced emotion for apparel shopping and effect of consumer's emotion on attitude toward the internet shop. The data were collected from a sample of 271 internet shopper of university students(male: 82, femaie: 189). They visited the on-line shop for apparel shopping and after searching a casual clothing which they wanted to buy, requested to answer the questionnaire. The covariance structural model and research hypothesis analyzed by using AMOS 4.0 program. The results are as follows: First, the structural model is accepted($X^2$=128.30/d.f.=119/p=0.26, GFI=0.95 ; AGFI=0.93; RMR:0.05: NFI=0.94; PNFI=0.73). Second, apparel merchandise characteristics(price, information, assortment) of the internet shop lead a consumer's positive emotions for apparel shopping. Limited assortment variety of product induce negative emotions. Third, positive and negative emotions that consumer experienced for apparel shopping influence attitude toward the internet shop.

The purpose of this study is to develop clothing shopping orientation(CSO) scales fer more specific clothing shopping aspects. The specific aspects were the merchandise-related aspect and the store-related aspect. The two specific scales were developed based on the conceptual structure model of CSO and the general CSO scale. 16 items were selected for merchandise-related CSO, and 16 items were far store-related CSO. In addition, construct validity and convergent validity of those two specific scales were verified using AMOS 4.0, and discriminant validity were verified using Pearson's correlation. This study has significance in offering an advanced approach to the measurement of CSO.

The purpose of this study is to identify neck shapes of women by classifying their neck-base types according to the shapes of neck and analyzing the characteristics of each type. The subjects were 58 women $18\~24$ years of age. Their body were measured directly and indirectly by using camera, 3-dimensional body scanner. The anthropometric measurements were composed of 17 items. They were measured during the months of October in 2001 The results and discussions of this study are as follows. There were three kinds of neck-base type. The first type was slant from the back neck-base to the side neck-base, and slant from the side neck-base to the front neck-base. The second type was gentle from the back neck-base to the side neck-base, and gentle from the side nect-base to the front neck-base. finally, the third type was gentle from the back neck-base to the side neck-base, and slant from the side neck-base to the front neck-base. Hopefully, understanding the shapes of neck and characteristics of each neck-base type will help to suggest computer assisted neck-base's landmark identification algorithms and measurement extraction methods from three-dimensional body scan data.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organization of trading area and fashion trend in Gumi based on the observation of fashion brand stores which had been undertaken on a regular basis from July 2001 through July 2004. Gumi has over 1,000 stores located in main trading streets, about $25\%$ of which was fashion retail stores. In July 2004, $64.6\%$ of them was selling branded products, and the number of unisex casual wear stores was the greatest, followed by women's casual wear stores, sportswear stores, and children's wear stores. On the main streets of Gumi, casual attires as well as casual wear stores can be easily observed because the population of eumi is young compared to that of other regions. Among casual wear brands, especially sensory, or trendy casual wear brands such like BNX, A6, Coax, Koolhaas, EXR, and Smex came into Gumi area in large numbers since fall of 2002. From the observation data, dynamic and systemic effects of economic state, population, seasonal elements, product characteristics, etc. on the organizations of trading area were identified.

This study was to examine the factor structure of pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual and official wear, to analyze the differences of pursuing benefit, satisfaction, and clothing purchase behavior among the consumer groups segmented by store pursuing benefits, and to provide useful information for establishment of marketing strategies. The subjects were 500 female consumers experienced in purchasing clothes at fashion outlet stores. A total of 500 questionnaires were analyzed with $X^2$-test, ANOVA, factor analysis and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1. Pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual wear and official wear were composed of 5 factors. 2. Pursuing benefit and satisfaction at casual and offcial wear, and clothing purchasing behavior variables such as informants, frequency of purchase, shopping time, and average monthly expenditure on clothes were significantly different among the 3 segmented groups. Product pursuing group was shown to seek higher level of esthetic feeling, suitability for self image and body, fsshion and symbolic meaning of brand than other groups in casual and official wear and to be most satisfied at symbolic meaning of brand, social recognition, and practicality in casual wear of outlet and at suitability and social recognition in official wear of outlet. Store convenience pursuing group was shown to seek higher level of suitability for self image and body, quality, and practicality than other groups in casual and official wear and to be most satisfied at quality and practicality in casual wear of outlet and at practicality and suitability in of cial wear of outlet. Price pursuing group was shown to seek and to be most satisfied at practicality in casual and official wear of outlet.

The purposes of this study are to verify the validity of the conceptual structure of clothing shopping orientation(CSO) developed in the previous research, and to explore the difference of CSO structure between male and female consumer groups. For those purposes, data of 499 male and female consumers were collected. Confirmatory factor analysis, ANOVA, and simultaneous factor analysis were used for data analysis. The results are as follows. First, as a result of confirmatory factor analysis, the validity of conceptual structure of CSO was verified. Second, as a result of ANOVA, male and female showed significantly different CSO at the lower-dimensions level, and as a result of simultaneous factor analysis, male and female showed significantly different relationships between dimensions within the structure. This means that the CSOs of both male and female can be explained by the same CSO structure model, but the specific relationships between CSO dimensions are different by the gender of consumers. Finally, directions for fashion marketing mix concerning the CSO structures of male and female were suggested.

The purpose of this study was to segment Chinese career women by experience in purchasing Korean clothing and to analyze and compare clothing purchasing behavior between the 2 groups and to provide useful information to Korean manufacturers for establishment of marketing strategies for China. The subjects were 602 career women of middle and high class In their 20's and 30's. A total of 602 questionnaires were analyzed by using frequency, mean, Cronbach's $\alpha$, factor analysis, t-test and $X^2$-analysis. The results were as follows: 1. The demographic variables such as an age, residential city, marriage, and total monthly income were proven to be significantly different between the 2 groups except an academic background. 2. The clothing purchase behavior variables such as purchasing motive, using informants, clothing selection standards, store selection standards, purchasing place, satisfaction after purchasing clothes, shopping time, average monthly expenditure on clothing, purchasing frequency of casual wear, purchasing price, and paying method were proven to be significantly different between the 2 groups. However, the clothing purchase behavior variables such as purchasing frequency of formal wear and purchasing price of fur coat and sweater were proven not to be significantly different between the 2 groups.

The irradiation of Ultra-Violet (UV) is an efficient treatment for polymer to improve hydrophilic properties. 4-Channel PET knit fabrics were treated with UVA and UVC to develop functional and environment-friendly fabric. The fabric was treated with various treatment times and distances from UV lamps having different wavelength. FT-IR and XPS investigated the chemical changes. To confirm the change of surface properties, contact angle, surface energy and SEM were examined. The study of UV as a treatment for PET knit fabric shows significant changes in chemical and surface properties, which is proved by analyses. FT-IR and XPS analyses prove the augmentation of carboxylic, Hydrophilic groups on the surfaces treated by UV. The increase of water contact angle and surface energy means more water wettable and surface energy of PET film was substantially increased by UV irradiation time. The ageing after surface treatment had little influence on the surface energy of the irradiated PET film. SEM proves the surface modification of PET such as etching, bubble and crack. The negative effects are increased in accordance with increasing treatment time.

The objective of this study is to consider the concept of postmodernism and the characteristics concerning the stage of the development, and to investigate the effect of the postmodernism on the clothing. Postmodernism is the result of the late capitalism and its characteristics are the narrative, mixture and deconstruction. First, since it is impossible to express the social culture of various society through one theoretical disclosure, the novel value on the narrative is provided and its characteristics arise. Hence, the society becomes afford to accept the other and provides the novel value to the absolute sub-concept. Second, the recognization and emphasis of the narrative in the post modem society bring about the repulsion as to the strict classification between the high culture and low one established from modernism and the closure between each genre of the art, and this causes to raise the composed characteristics which borrow or mix the style and image of different age and culture. Third, the deconstructive feature arises which eliminates the boundary between the high and low class, the past and future and the destruction and construction. This means not only anther recomposition but also skeptical attitude about it.

The purpose of this research was to consequences of the sale effect derived from similar type of personality between the customer and the apparel salesperson. For the purpose of the verifications, random survey is made to 225 people over 20 years in age among the residence in the district of Seoul and using SPSS program, the reliability, frequency and crosstabs. The results of this study as follows: 1) In the fashion apparels of higher level of involvement, lower assertiveness but carefulness and analytic attitude of the salesperson is preferred rather than the customer's personality. 2) Difference are shown of the consequence of the sale effect by the corresponding type of the personality, depending on the degree of the involvement. 3) As for the level of the influence of the sale effect by the concordance of personality type depending on profession, student group are more conscious rather than the professional group in the aspect of concordance of personality type with salesperson.