The purpose of this study was to compare the concepts related to formal wear and casual wear, the expression image far formal wear and casual wear, the criteria for clothing selection, the most appropriate clothing for the specific situation, the price range, the kinds of accessories matched with clothing, the time for purchase, the patronage site, and the appropriate colors fur formal wear and casual wear. The total of 396 consumers, 20s' and 40s' female consumers in Korea and America were sampled in both countries. The sampling places were college campus, business district, department stores, and shopping mall in Seoul and Columbus, Ohio. Formal wear and casual wear were selected as survey items. The results showed that the consumers in both countries revealed emic and etic phenomena. Based on the results of this survey, the fundamental information and implications for clothing shopping behaviors in Korea and America can be provided.

This paper was done to identify the types and the characteristics of street fashion of men living in world fashion-leading cities. 608 male photos taken on the main streets of 4 world fashion-leading cities such as London, New York, Paris, Tokyo were used as data. Photos were viewed by students and classified according to overall images and the common aspects of characteristic style. Fashion images of male were classified into 11 groups, which were suits, casual, hip-hop, rockers/punks, hippies, ethnic, western, military, new romantic, skirt, androgynous. Frequency distribution showed that casual image was mostly preferred and 1311owe4 by suit, rocker/punks. Military and hippies were least favored. In each category, almost every style looked unique and creative as a result of mixing and cross-coordination of different clothing items.

The purpose of this study is clarify the formative characteristic of dance costume design and analyse stage effect based upon the formative factors. Classified design element of dance costumes by line, silhouette, color, material, lighting, and also this based on content analysis method about each formative factor of costumes that showed 10 dance performances which practically be performed and made. And individually interviewed the professional dance composers and dancers who participated in the performances fer objectivity and specialty of this study. The results were as follows; 1. Dance costume contains and harmoniously expresses theme of a dance work, formative characteristic of fashion design, movement and character of the dancers, lighting effect. 2. Korean creative dance costume is effectively expressed with formative factors of traditional costumes and modem sensibility and symbolic expression of image-centered. 3. Costume line is affected by dancer's movement and it's possible to be different effect that the atmosphere or stage effect by the original form of line and the expression method. 4. Costume color is effective to inform that dancer's character and image of a dance work. 5. Costume material is most important to consider that the dancers and the atmosphere and the image of a dance work. 6. Lighting effect can inform various feel of dancer's dance.

The purpose of this study was to segment the consumer market for women's street clothes based on benefit sought. The sample was taken from 1106 middle class women who were in their 30's-40's living in Gwangju city. Consumers were classified into three groups by honest sought. The groups were practical benefit seeking group(36.7%), multi-benefit seeking group(32.6%) and symbolic/aesthetic benefit seeking group(30.7%). ANOVA, $\chi$$^2$-test revealed differences among groups according to benefit sought, use of information sources, purchasing behavior variables and demographic variables As a result of comparison for two market segmentations, benefit segmentation was proven to be more useful than segmentations using clothes image preference. But there were differences in psychological variables and demographic variables among the same benefit segments. Therefore hybrid approach on segmentation using clothes images preferences and benefit sought is neccesary.

The purpose of the study is to understand the newer and more direct design techniques, and to provide information to exert creativity in designing. The headdress, one of dress items, was selected so that the change might be investigated in designs and production methods. A headdress was manufactured on the basis of literature review and portrait analysis. The target period of the study was limited to Henry Ⅶ and Henry Ⅷl(1485∼l547) when gable headdress was put on. The details and the patterns of gable headdress were identified for the selected gable hood to be manufactured. It was not possible to get the same dress material, so a similar one was made as in the pictures. The same was done to the color. Putting the focus of the study on the reproduction of the figure in the portrait, some dimension were measured in bodily proportion and patterns were made by three-dimensional cutting. As results, some dimensions used in the manufacture had some limits.

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

In this research, an internet-based fabric information system has been developed. Recently, the numbers of textile industries which have their own homepages to advertise their product fabrics fur apparel through the Internet and textile e-Commerce web sites rapidly increase. Unfortunately, traditional fabric information systems based on direct meeting and trust cannot give sufficient information to numerous visitors of the Internet sites including fabric buyers for apparel. They can just view 3-dimensional fabric images and text-based specifications such as fabric density, composition, colors, weight, etc. To solve these problems, the new fabric information system fur apparel has been developed. The web-based fabric information system is composed of the following six modules; $\circled1$ fabric database management system, $\circled2$ a 3-D fabric drape image viewer to illustrate fabric appearances, $\circled3$ a virtual wearing system to apply a fabric to garment designs, $\circled4$ a fabric property viewer to confirm fabric characteristics, $\circled5$ a QC (quality control) document generator to manufacture high qualify garments with a fabric, and$\circled6$actual display mall to view actual fabrics. The fabric information system is simply performed by visitors clicking the buttons hyper-linked with JAVA applets on web browser. The web-based fabric information system enables the web site visitors to understand fabrics shown on the Internet in more details.

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of personal characteristics on job stressors, job stress symptoms, and job performance of workers in fashion and textile industries. Personal characteristics includes gender, marital status, educational level, age, type of industry, type of occupation, job position and work period. The data were obtained from questionnaire completed by 529 workers who were employed by textile or clothing manufacturers located in Seoul, Daegu, or Gyeongsang-do province. The SPSS package was used for data analysis which includes frequency, factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA and Scheffe's test. The results indicated that all personal characteristics had significant effects on job stressors, job stress symptoms, and job performance. Age and job position among personal characteristics showed to be the most important variables which influenced job stressor, job stress symptoms, and job performance.

The purpose of this research is to provide the apparel companies with a successful business strategy by analyzing the concept, function and current status of mileage programs; and examining how customer's attitude, recognition, experience, compensation method of the mileage program in apparel companies affect its brand loyalty. In this research simple random sampling was performed. The sample pool was based on 494 people which included college students and employed men and women in their twenties and thirties living in Seoul and in the metropolitan area. The data analysis was completed on the basis of SPSS package, using frequency, percentage, mean, standard deviation, factor analysis, variation, Scheffe test, regression, t-test, and X/sup2/. The following results were found in this research: It is effective to maintain brand loyalty through continuous relationship with consumers as fierce competition increases in apparel companies. A mileage program is a win/win strategy that allows clothing companies to increase its sales and brand loyalty while consumers feel greater satisfaction.

The Purpose of this study is to find out the effect of clothing style and color, tone combination on impressions formation. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-point semantic). The stimuli are 36pictures manipulated with clothing style, color and tone variation by computer drawing. The subjects are 216 female undergraduate students and 216 female of middle age(40~50) in Chin-ji city. The resulte of this study are as follows : Impression factor of the stimulus was consisted of the 5 different demensions(attractiveness, elegance, activity, revealation, tenderness). Among there, attractiveness and elegance factors proved to be more important. In the attractiveness and tenderness, clothing style, color, tone combinations and perceiver's age had the significant effect. In the elegance and revealation, color and perceiver's age had the significant effect but in the activity, only color did not have the significant effect. Significant interaction effects of clothing style and color, style and tone combination, and color and perceiver's age on attractiveness and revealation were found. Interaction effect of color and tone combination was significant on the elegance and revealation, and that of color and perceiver's age was significant on tenderness.

The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .

The purpose of this study was to provide the guidance in more objective and proper clothing design reflecting today's consumers' modes in value consumption by identifying the meaning structure and relationship between fashion sensibility and emotion. The stimulus was 54 photos of contemporary costume which represented the Izard' DES. The questionnaire consisted of hi-polar 25 pairs adjective scale of fashion sensibility and the 18 noun scale of emotion was distributed to 970 male and female living in Pusan area. The data were analyzed by Factor analysis, Correlation analysis and Regression analysis using the statistical SPSS package. The major finding of this research were as follows.1. Fashion sensibilities consist of estheticism, maturity, character and feminity to represent 57.17% total varlarlce. 2. Emotions consist of negative emotion, distress afraid, arousal, shame and enjoyment to represent 70.84% total variance. 3. For the relation between fashion sensibility and emotion, they showed significant relationship in most of factors.

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of men's shoulders through the criteria which represent the characteristic of men's shoulders. In addition, we introduce new bodice patterns depending on our classification. We have the fo11owing conclusions based on our sample size of 200 men's shoulders: 1. The result of factor analysis indicates that six factors are extracted and they consist of 62.3% of total variance. We then choose three factors as standard items for our classification of the shape of men's shoulders. 2. We divide the shape of shoulders into three categories: bent, slopeness, and thickness. Each category is divided into three subcategories. (a) Bent: If one's shoulders are bent forward or backward, then we call them front or back-bent type. Otherwise, they are called standard-bent type. (b) Slopeness: If one's shoulders have an easy or steep slope, then we call them easy or steep slope type. Or else, they are called standard slope type. (c) Thickness: If one's shoulders are thick or thin, then we call them thick or thin type. Otherwise, we call them standard thick type. 3. According to the frequency based on our data entries of 200 men's shoulders, we introduce five new types of men's shoulders. 76.5% of examined men's shoulders belong to one of these five types: (a) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type: (b) 9.5% of easy slope and standard-bent type; (c) 45.5% of standard slope and standard-bent type; (d) 5.5% of steep slope and standard-bent type; (e) 8.0% of standard slope and back-bent type. 4. The suitability of new basic bodice patterns based on the types of men's shoulders are demonstrated by the high approval rate of the subjects who participate in testing.

The purpose of this study was to find out evaluative criteria of cyber store toward shopping orientation, purchasing experience and demographic factors of consumers to visit cyber store. This study surveyed consumers who have an experience of using cyber store and judgment sampling was used. The respondents were 240 men and women living in the metropolitan area of Seoul and Gyeonggi province. Research method was measured by clothing shopping orientation (utilitarian and hedonic factors), cyber store evaluation criteria (convenience, quality & trust and product character factors), purchasing experience(existent and nonexistent) and demographic factors. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, t-test, Duncan test, and reliability analysis were conducted. The results were as follows: 1. Evaluative criteria of cyber store were considered importantly in order of possibility of exchange and refund, stability of personal information security, substance of quality degree of product and service and store. 2. Among shopping orientation groups, there were significant differences in all evaluative criteria of cyber store: convenience, quality & trust and product character of store. 3. Among groups toward existence and nonexistence in a purchasing experience, there were significant differences in convenience and quality & trust of store. 4. Among Demographic factors(gender, job, education and income) there were significant differences in convenience and quality & trust of store.