권호 표지

복식 (Journal of the Korean Society of Costume) (Journal of the Korean Society of Costume)

한국복식학회 (The Korean Society of Costume)

  • 격월간
  • /
  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2287-7827(eISSN)

과학기술표준분류

  • 문화/예술/체육 ＞ 의상디자인
  • 생활 ＞ 의류

Aim & Scope

한국복식학회 학술지 ‘服飾’은 복식전공분야의 학문적 교류를 통한 복식학 분야의 발전에 이바지함을 그 목적으로 하고 있습니다. 즉 각 전공분야의 정보를 신속하게 공유하여 복식 산업발전에 기여하며 패션산업 현장에서의 디자인을 비롯한 여러 분야의 연구에 실질적인 도움을 주고자 합니다. ‘服飾’ 학술지에는 복식사, 복식미학 및 패션디자인, 패션마케팅, 및 심리, 의복구성 및 텍스타일, 복식일반을 비롯한 복식 전반에 걸친 학자들의 연구 성과를 싣고 있습니다. ‘服飾’은 2003년부터 한국연구재단 등재학술지로 지정되었으며, 지금까지 연 10회 발행되던 학술지를 게재논문의 질적 향상을 위하여 2020년부터는 연 6회 발행하고 있습니다. 또한 논문 Full-Text등을 전산화하여 인터넷에서도 검색이 가능한 정보화사업을 하고 있습니다. The purpose of the Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (JKSC), the academic journal of the Korean Society of Costume (KSC), is to contribute to the development and diversity of the study of costume by becoming a means to scholarly exchange. In other words, the goal is to contribute to the development of the fashion industry and to give practical assistance to various design-related research by prompt exchange of information from the various fields of costume studies. JKSC covers a broad spectrum of research outputs from the field of costume studies, such as the history of costume, dress aesthetics, fashion design, fashion marketing, psychology, clothing construction, and textiles. First published in 1977, JKSC has been listed on the Korean Citation Index (KCI) by the National Research Foundation of Korea (NRF) since 2003. Once published as frequently as 10 times per year, the JKSC has, since 2020, been published six times per year in order to better promote the qualitative improvement of its academic papers. KSC is now in the process of informatizing a system to provide a range of online services, while its full-text electronic resources are already available online.

http://onkjournal.co.kr/sobis/ksc.jsp KSCI KCI

제66권8호

  1. 정미연;황선진 1
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.001 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study was to analyze the effects of comparative advertisement brand typicality and need for recognition in outdoor apparel market. This study was created with a mixed factorial design of 2 (Advertisement types: Comparative advertisement vs. General advertisement) X 2(Brand Typicality: High Brand vs. Low Brand) X 2 (Need for Cognition: High vs. Low). The results of this study are as follows: First, it was shown that comparative advertisement had a greater positive influence on attitudes toward advertising intentions in comparison to general advertisements. Second, while comparative advertisement was more effective than general advertisement for outdoor apparel brands with low typicality. Third, consumers with higher need for cognition showed a preferred attitude toward advertising intention when met with comparative advertising in contrast to general advertisement. Fourth, when consumers with higher needs for cognition were exposed to advertisement for brands of lower typicality, there was higher positive influence on the attitudes toward advertisement intention with comparative advertisement in comparison to general advertisement. This means the comparative advertisement may be effective for the new garment brand or the garment brands having low typicality to secure the cognition quickly from the consumers having high need for cognition.
  2. 김영삼;전여선;박근정;김장현 14
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.014 PDF KSCI
    This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.
  3. 박광희 33
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.033 PDF KSCI
    This study classified respondents by degree of obesity using Body Mass Index(BMI) and investigated the differences in self-esteem, food lifestyle, social-cultural attitudes towards appearance, and diet-related attitude and behavior such as trial number of diet, exercise time and period, use of diet information, interest in weight control, diet motivation, and dietetic therapy. A survey was conducted with 258 adults between the ages of 20 and 29 who lived in Daegu and Uijeongbu from November $17^{th}$ to December $14^{th}$ 2014. Data collected from the respondents were analyzed using descriptive statistics, factor analyses, analyses of variance and chi-square tests. This study divided the respondents into three groups (the underweight, the normal weight, the overweight) according to Body Mass Index. The results showed that there were significant differences in food lifestyle (health-conscious, popularity-seeking, taste-seeking), social-cultural attitudes towards appearance, exercise time and period, use of diet information, interest in weight control, diet motivation, and dietetic therapy among groups classified by degree of obesity. However, there were no differences in self-esteem, convenience-seeking, and trial number of diet among them.
  4. 신주영;남윤자;김경선 46
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.046 PDF KSCI
    Countries have different brassiere patterns, and this study produced and compared 3/4 brassiere patterns from different countries to determine the difference in patterns, and to investigate the stress distribution and shape of cross section while wearing brassieres using 3D virtual fitting system. Despite the growing interest in underwear, there is a lack of related books and research on brassiere patterns, which causes the difference in sizes and pattern drafting methods by countries. Thus, research on this is needed. 3D virtual fitting system has been introduced to compare patterns, thereby improving visible effects and reducing the loss in cost caused by underwear pattern fitting test. According to the result of pattern analysis, The Secoli type exhibited the least breast cover rate (14.9 cm), while the largest cover rate was shown in Christina and ESMOD types (17.7 cm). It is believed that the difference in pattern drafting causes the difference in the total length of a brassiere. Furthermore, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres drafted from basic bodice pattern were found to be longer than the Christina and Han Sunmi brassieres attained from direct pattern drafting. Moreover, the darts' volume of upper and lower cups in Christina and Han Sunmi types was similar in shape. The shapes of cradle drafted from basic bodice pattern were a straight line, while those from direct drafting formed a curved shape. In fitting multiple cross sections, the Secoli, Moda Burgo, and ESMOD brassieres had gaps between the brassieres and the body. Among these, the largest number of gaps was observed in the ESMOD type pattern. This study aimed at performing comparative analysis of various brassieres' pattern drafting types as a basic research for developing a brassiere pattern drafting type.
  5. 장인우 61
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.061 PDF KSCI
    This study is to understand the meaning, the location, and the construction of Hyeonhun (玄纁) through the records and relics of the Chosun Dynasty. Hyeonhun means farewell gifts for the dead. Hyeonhun was very personal and was considered to be essential ritual supplies. it was newly made for not only first funeral(初葬), but also the second funeral(改葬), was individually made as well as in the couple funeral(夫婦合葬). the Hyeonhun ritual was performed while dressed in a simabok(緦麻服). The ritual started with washing of the hands(盥手) and deep bowing(再拜) twice. The Hyeonhun was placed on the lid of the inner coffin among the 3 coffins in Chosun tomb's way. The Hyeon was placed on the right side and the Hun on the left side of the lid.(玄右纁左). Hyeonhun are comprised of one, two, five of ten pieces. Most of the excavated Hyeonhun were two pieces : Hyeonhunsokbaek(玄纁束帛) consist of ten pieces, of which six were Hyeons and four were Huns. The records indicated that the materials used to make Hyeonhun was silk, but the excavated relics satin and twill, single gauze in the excavated relics advanced than the records.
  6. 장애란;현명관 78
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.078 PDF KSCI
    The purpose of this study is to develop textile pattern designs by utilizing the prototype of traditional culture extracted from cultural resources in order to establish a specialty strategy for local cultural contents. To achieve this, the study selected the Hyojaemunjado as source of Jeju traditional culture. Jeju's Hyojaemunjado is characterized mainly by the creative and unique formativeness of Jeju's character paintings. Character paintings often contained images related to the characters featured inside characters, or composed stroke with symbolic iconography. The main subjects of Hyojaemunjado were stories that alluded to the Confucian virtues. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to remind people of the real meaning of Shin(truth) by developing textile pattern designs, which borrows the tessellation technique for design, and the dominant characteristic of geometric abstraction. This study used theoretical research and empirical analysis. First, the study did the theatrical research on Hyojaemunjado based on literature and precedent studies, and then analyzed the style of expression and formativeness on the Shin character paintings through real analysis of Jeju's Hyojaemunjado kept in Jeju National University Museum. Second, based on the analysis of the style(three-tier composition) and formativeness of Hyojaemunjado, it analyzed the formativeness of the iconography about Shin, i.e. character types(semi cursive style, square style) drawn according to the symbolic meaning, palace, unknown flower, pheasant, tile fish and constellation. Based on analysis of the iconography, it stylized the motives that became available on the Archimedean tiling of tessellation, and then developed the textile pattern designs by arranging the iconographic motives with Platonic tiling and Semi-tiling. The reason why this study borrowed tessellation was to create various visual effects using the size of angle, symmetry and change and joint with simple figure.
  7. 최해주 98
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.098 PDF KSCI
    Knitwear has been used as an active and functional clothing item due to its flexible and soft nature. Diverse design expressions have made knitwear into an essential fashion item for people today, who are constantly seeking for ways to display their individualism. The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual wearing conditions, and the preferred designs of knitwear for female college students in order to provide a baseline data, which can be used to develop knitwear designs for the subjects of the study. Survey by questionnaire of 135 female college students in 3 universities in Seoul were analysed. The results of the study are as follows: First, the most owned knitwear were sweaters and cardigans. Knitwear was viewed as soft and warm, as well as versatile. It was not restricted to certain sizes, and was comfortable to wear for different activities. Seound, the most preferred items were sweaters and cardigans. The most preferred styles were round neckline sweaters and open V-neckline cardigans. Third, the most preferred designs were plain designs with achromatic colors and wool-blended fabrics. The most preferred images were simple images. The most preferred fit was loose enough for little bit of room inside. Fourth, appropriateness and design of the knitwear were assessed during the purchasing stage. the most preferred method of purchase was purchasing via online stores after researching the knitwear through various channels, such as store visits and the Internet. The preferred price of knitwear was below 100,000 KRW. Fifth, the most common complaints were as follows: changes in the shape and quality of the knitwear after a wash, appearance of nap, and loose threads. In short, it is necessary for female college students to develop high quality knitwear with designs that can display individuality, while being simple.
  8. 김수경;김문영 109
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.109 PDF KSCI
    This study is to explore the ways to increase the export performance of start-up companies, as opportunities are rising along with more companies entering the global market. Thus the study analyzed the factors affecting export performance of the start-up company by mainly looking at the international marketing capabilities of enterprises type of marketing strategy and internal environmental capabilities. The following were derived as factors for marketing 4P strategy: innovation of product, flexibility of export price, differentiation of distribution channels, diversity of promotional activities, and positive-ness of promotion. For internal capabilities of enterprises, innovation of CEO, initiative of CEO, risk susceptibility of CEO, information power of export market, and information power of competitor were derived as factors. Two types of performances were considered for export performance, financial and non-financial. Among innovation of product and risk susceptibility of CEO the non-financial performance of export performance, and only differentiation of distribution channels of marketing 4p strategy the financial performance. It showed that since performance was different depending on the entrepreneurship of the CEO, only innovative products differentiated from small and medium enterprises. risk susceptibility of CEO increased export outlook by corporate acknowledgment and image, creation of potential customers, and financial performance affected only differentiation in distribution channel rather than entrepreneurial spirit, information power, or organizational flexibility because of short business career and insufficient period enough to gain trust. Therefore, start-up companies need to improve their non-financial export performance by increasing innovation of product and risk susceptibility of the CEO. The companies need to widen the differentiation of distribution channels in the financial export performance.
  9. 조우현;김혜경;동준희;박민재 123
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.123 PDF KSCI
    Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽], which was published in the late Joseon Dynasty, was representative reinterpretation book of Ga-ryae [家禮] and it was a widely used and cited in the late Joseon Dynasty. This book contains Confucian values about the ritual of Confucian scholars of Joseon Dynasty. This study is a description of historical investigation and production of men's mourning dress based on Sa-ryae-pyeonram [四禮便覽] the result, of the study shows empirical attitude of Confucian scholasr in the late Joseon Dynasty. Through industrialization, traditional culture has been able to survive through preservation. Wearing the traditional mourning dress is not the only way to embody the traditional values in the modern society. It is will be necessary to study contemporary mourning dress as a reflection of traditional value.
  10. 박동진;이혜주 138
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.138 PDF KSCI
    This study analyzed the effects of CEO's authentic leadership on job satisfaction and organizational performance in a fashion company, and the differences in the CEO's authentic leadership, job satisfaction and organizational performance by the size of the companies. The study analyzed responses collected from questionnaires filled out by 440 employees of fashion companies. The results of this study were as follows; First, the transparency, future orientation, self-awareness, balanced process, and ethicality of CEO's authentic leadership positively influenced the wages or system satisfaction. The CEO's transparency, future orientation, self-awareness, and ethicality positively influenced job satisfaction. Also, the CEO's transparency, future orientation, self-awareness positively influenced the working condition or environmental satisfaction. Second, the wages or system satisfaction and working condition or environmental satisfaction of employees positively influenced the management performance of fashion companies. And the wages or system satisfaction, job satisfaction and working condition or environmental satisfaction of employees positively influenced the new product performance and job performance. Third, the CEO's authentic leadership of fashion companies positively influenced the management performance, and the CEO's transparency and future orientation positively influenced the new product performance. In addition, the CEO's self-awareness, balanced process and ethicality influenced the job performance. Fourth, there were significant differences in the CEO's authentic leadership, job satisfaction, management performance and new product performance by fashion companies' size. The results of this study will be useful in successful business strategy and improving the performance of fashion companies.
  11. 김양희;류경화 157
    https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.8.157 PDF KSCI
    This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.