본 연구의 목적은 Navajo 직물의 역사적 발달을 고전시대를 중심으로 살펴보고 특히 외부영향에 따른 직물의 변화를 고찰하는데 있다. 구체적으로 1) 고전시대의 전통적인 직물은 어떻게 발달하였는가\ulcorner 2) 고전시대 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향요인은 어떤 점이 다른가\ulcorner 예 초점을 맞추었다. 연구방법은 아메리카 인디언의 이동,문화 Navajo 직조 및 직물에 대한 문헌을 바탕을 조사하였고 아리조나 주립박물과 아리조나 역사 박물관을 방문하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또 비교 미학적 차원에서 고전시대 navajo 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향 요인을 분석하였고 외부영향을 받은 직물의 예를 시각적자료로 제시하였다. 이연구는 인디언직물에 대한 이해, 고전시대. Navajo 직물의 문헌고찰을 통한 민족의복의 문화적측면에 기여할수 이고 현대적 감각을 지닌 Navajo 직물을 한국직물에 접목 응용하는데 도움을 줄수 있다 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. Navajo 직물을 고전, 전환, 양탄자 시대로 구분되었고. 이중에서 고전시대가 navajo 직물의 특성을 가장 잘 나타내었으며 발달된 직조기술을 보였다. Navajo인들의 직조기술은 1863년경 최고조에 달했다. Navajo 직물의 디자인 주제로 주로 인간을 둘러싸고 있는 환경에서 얻어졌고 이것들은 직선의 기하학적 형태로 구체화되었다. 또한 직물에 표현된 색도 자연과 밀접한 관련성을 갖는 있었다. 2. Navajo 직물의 주용한 용도는 여성용 드레스, 남성용 셔츠는 어깨에 걸치는 두르개였다. 여성용 드레스는 동일한 크기의 직물의 두장을 직조한 후에 꿰매었고 남성용 셔츠는 머리가 들어갈수 있는 구멍이 있는 장방형 판쵸 스타일이었다. 어깨에 걸치는 두르개는 여성의 경우 가운데가 검은색이고 가장자리가 푸른색인형태오 흰색과 붉은 색이 교대로 나타나는 형태의 2가지가 있었고 남성용은 고전시대의 대표라고 일컬어지는 족장 두르개였다. 3. Navajo 직물은 외부의 영향을 받아 많은 변화를 가져왔다. 즉 스페인 사람들로 인하여 면 섬유대신 양모섬유를 사용하게 되었고 전통적 모양과 다른직물이 출현하게 되었다. 또한 인디고 염류, 색소니 실, 바에타 직물의 도입으로 다양한 색상의 표현이 가능해졌고 이와 관련하여 다이아몬드 십자형 톱니형 무늬드이 나타나게 되었다. 4, 고전시대를 대표하는 직물로 족장 두르개, 쇼올, 안장덮개를 들수 있으며 이 직물들에서 뚜렷하게 외부영향 요인을볼수 있다. 즉 족장 두르개의 가장 정교한 단계에서 다이아몬드 무늬가 가장가리 가운데 모서리에 위치하여 9지점 배치를 이룬 것 쇼올의 경우 폭보다 길이가 긴 형태의 비전통적 모습을 나타낸 것 안장덮개에서 보여지는 여덟포인트 별 무늬도 외부의 영향을 받은예이다. 뛰어난 직조기술로 유명한 navajo인들은 변화에 잘 적응하는 특성을 갖고 있었다. 외부의 영향을 그들은 긍정적으로 받아들였고 자기 자신들의 필요에 맞도록 수정하여 정체감을 잃지 않으면서도 문화를 발전시켰다. 따라서 고전시대의 Navajo 직물은 고유적 요인과 외래적 요인의 조화를잘 나타내고 있으며 디자인의 탁월함이 세련됨 천연염료와 인조염료의 배\ulcorner에 의한 색상의 우월성 등으로 오늘까지 높이 평가되고있다.

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

The purpose of this study is to classify of the Heart shaped Earring in old tombs of Three Kingdom States. First Heart shaped Earring is 7 part in according to heart styles. I-A type was original style and that was influenced by scythe style. I-A II-A type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in Kokuryo Pacijae ancient Silla Gaya. I-B II-2-A type was also found in most of the old tombs except Kokuryo. Then II-2-A type was transmitted to Japanese Heart shaped Earring. I-A, I-B, II-1, II-2-A type was general style in ancient Silla gaya. Ii-1-B, II-2-B. II-3-A type was excavated from the only Pacjae tombs and II-3-B type was excavated from Kokuryo tombs. II-3-A, II-3-B type was unique style that was found in old tombs in Kokuryo, Pacjae.

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

The purpose of this study is to offer a new inspiration for fashion design relating the "Romanticism" in art to one in fasion-examining the circumstance expressionad the latest trend which is involved with it. Since. 1990. Romanticism is motivated and represented in the middle of aridity in this age which is going on the end (of age). To say the details Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is classified in four categories : Retro Avantgarde, Minimal and Ethnic. First Retro mood in Romanticism is represented by reappearing the costumes in medieval Renaissance Baroque Rococo, Romantic era Specially corsets crinolines bustle decorative ribbons frills and Medieval symbols in religion are important factors in intuitional symbolic Romanticism. Second Avantgrde mood in Romanticism is mainly represented in the oriental patterns colors items being motivated by Eastern customs images and cultures. Today they appear in modern concept reinterpreting 'fusion" "hybrid" and "cross-over". Romanticism in fashion is creating new forms and beauties absorbing the past and the present. In addition it is motivated by the nostalgic mood. the expectation for the future and the refineent. Romanticism would be an important fashion theme to offer new inspirations for the fashion in 21th century rather than remain at the reappearance.er than remain at the reappearance.

This study was to identify the dimensions of consumer's purchasing motives and purchasing delay reasons toward casual hanbok. Other objective was to examine relationship between these variables and future purchasing intention. Th 22 purchasing motive questions and 19 purchasing delay reasons were selected through the result of self-questionnaire analysis. 302 purchaser and 297 consumers who delay for particular reasons in Pusan responsed to the second questionnaire of purchasing motives and purchasing delay reasons toward casual Hanbok. The results as follows: 1. For factor analysis 22 purchasing motive questions were subjected to the principle component analysis with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 6 major factors. Six dimensions are consciousness of nation goodness of design conformity with fashion charming apperance relaxation fo body and mind nation goodness of design conformity with fashion charming appearance relaxation of body and mind and pursuit of individuality. These factors explained 62.0% of total variables. 2. Consumer's purchasing motives such as consciousness of nation goodness of design charming appearance and relaxation of body and mind has predicting power to the re-purchasing intention of casual hanbok 3. For factor analysis 19 delay reason question were subjected to the principle component analysis with orthogonal rotation after extraction of 5 major factors. Five dimensions are non-fitness for occasion and body shape unsatisfaction with design unsatisfaction with price need of information search for better product and preference for traditional hangok. These factors explained 60.4% of total variables. 4. Delay reasons of unsatisfaction with design and price were positively related to the future purchasing intention. This delay reason is caused by forces external to the consumer and the consumer has engaged in information search. This result explained this type of consumer has the strong future purchasing intention.

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the origins of knitwear the history of patterned knits. Aithough historians know little about the origins of knitting many believe it was practiced as early as the 4th century by nomads roaming North Africa. later Arab raders adopted the craft which helped then while away the hours as they traveled across deserts in camel carabans, Its origins lie in the need for close-fitting and elasticated covering for the body in particular the head hand and feet. it first developed in the Mediterranean countries and later in Central and particularly Northern Europe. Early evidence of multicolored knitting is said to date back to the Egyptian Copts of 600-800 A.D. medieval knitting is developed through the Church and monastery. The increasing demand for knitted products already observable in the fourteenth and fifteenth centries and the number of preserved knitted articles increases inexcavated materialos from Europe. The improvements in technique stimulated the developement of the hand knitting industry in the early sixteenth century. The best-known source of production is the guild organization and their mass production consisted of the carpets cushion coverings and other small items for furnishing interiors but mainly of clothing. The demand for knitted goods was such that in the late sixteenth century it was mechanised, The knitting frame invented in 1589 by William Lee English priest was the most perfect machine of this period. The mass production of fully-fashioned and seamless garments in the late nineteenth and twentieth century was dangerously competitve to traditionally woven and sewn cloth in. As fashions changed knitwear has had an almost continuous ruse in public favour and the popularity of sports has encourage the fashion for flexible easy-fitting and absorbent garments.

The purpose of the study is to show concretely the design features due to cltohes image after classifying the clothes image examining relations between clothes images and design factors. Samples of the study were 507 female university students. Materials of the study were 309 slide film using the spring and fall issues of magazines and catalogues in 1996 and 1997. SAS PC was used to analyze materials and finally priniciple component analysis the analysis by quantification theory 1. The results of the study were as follows. The most important images of clothes were fashion dignity activation and simplicity. In the relationship between the main image and item factor, one-piece jumper half-coat culotte skirt pantaloons and slim pants had an important effect on the fashion image while two-piece jacket, blouse, straight pants had an effect on the dignity image and three-pice, T-shirt, shirt-vest pantaloons normal pants culoote skirt and gather skirt strengthen active image. In the relationship between the main image and silhuette X-silhouette fitting upper and lower clothes upper clothes having waist line or hip bone length and mini-skirt were the factors that raisen fashion image. And in the A-, X-, Y-silhouette having normal fit upper clothes below the knee length skirt and the upper clothes below the hip line were main factors in dignity image. And H-silhouette big size sleeves mini-skirt the upper clothes below hip line were the factors that strengthened the active image. In the relationship between fashion image and detailed factors roll stand and sports collar set-in and shirt sleeves having 5-rate and long sleeves strengthened fashion image. And flat tailored collar boat and high nceckline and bow detail set-i sleeve had an important effect on the dignity image. And shirt collar boat and V-neckline shirt dolman and 7-rate sleeves were the factors that raise active image.

Because adolescents are much inflicted with the sense of obsession in endless competition with their feers the costume of the pop singers relieving this agony and anxiety is becoming the object of immitation more than that of any oother entertainer. In this perspective it was thought that it was very necessary to attempt to investigate what relationship sense of mental anxiety the costume singers recently have worn had with adolescents sense of anxiety. The anxiety questionnaire used by Chu Young-sook and Kim Jung-hui and the questionnaire drawn up as the result- of the pilot-test and the pre-test were used and the questionnaires drawn up by a total of 228 middle schoolgirls in seoul were used a sfinal data of annalysis. Of them the anxiety questionnaire was made up of 8 sub-scales such as classic·social·morbid·learning examination·school record·poverty·war and other to anxieties. in order to survey the overall content concerning the costume of the singers preferred by teenagers the other questionnaire presented three vaiables such as musicality fashionability and dance as the distinct characteristics of singers and hiphop style tidy style and sexy style of clothing as the style of clothing preferred of singers' clothing. The importance fashionability and imitability of clothing were investigated as variables in relation to singers' clothing behavior. The SPSS PC+ program was used as the analytic method of data which were tested by the frequency analysis Duncan's multiple anaylsis of variance t-test and so on. As a result of investigation middle schoolgirls having a high level of learning and examinatior anxieties preferred the singers excellent in musicality while middle schoolgirls having a lower level of classic anxiety preferred the singers excellent in fashionability and dance wearing the hiphop style of clothing. And it was shown that middle schoolgirls having a lower level of classic anxiety preferred the singers wearing the clothing of sexy style. In the light of these results it was shown that there was the correlation between anxiety and clothing preference. Accordingly it is thought that the purpose of this study was achieved to some exent.

The purposes of this study were to classify the university women according to their life styles and to analyze the cosmetic consumption behavior of classified groups. The results of this study may suggest cosmetics production and sales plan to manufactures and distributers and to provide cosmetic consumption guides for the university women. For empirical study a questionnaire developed by researchers was distributed to 456 of university women in Chonbuk province from Aug. 26 to Sep. 17 1998. Frequencies and percentages were claculated. And factor analysis cluster analysis and $\chi$2-test were used. The results were as follows: 1. University women were clustered into 5 types of sound and self pursuit type realistic and fashion pursuit type external and liberal type delightful and enjoying type and passive and stagnate type according to their life styles. 2. Sound and self pursuit type was characterized by the faithfulness to school and home life and economical lining. They got cosmetics information through direct experiences by use of samples put on full make-ups to protect their skin and selected refill cosmetic products to save money. 3. Realistic and fashion pursuit type were sensitive to fashion and had a strong desire for material achievement. They put on full make-ups exchange unsatisfactory cosmetics at the store where they bought and had a lot of imported cosmetics experiences. 4. External and liberal type showed little concern with saving and had progressive thinking. They bought cosmetics at the department store got informations from market-oriented information sources. perferred shopping at department stores considerred price most important when selecting cosmetics exchanged unsatisfactory cosmetics at the store they bought when they were not satisfied with the flavor or skin troule. 5. Delightful and enjoying type showed the least faithfulness to their home and school life. They put on partial make-ups for the correction of facial defects or etiquette. 6. Passive and stagnate type enjoyed home life but were passive in real life and open-mindness They got cosmetics information from marketer-oriented information sources bought cosmetics at discount stores considered price most important when selecting cosmetics put on basic or at least mke-ups to protect their skin had the least experience in the imported cosmetics and refill products.

In contemporary fashion metal have used which is as the material with a sufficient potentiality of expression which is displayed by an unique characteristic involved only in metal. In this paper metal expressed in contemporary fashion is researched. The first thing the formative characteristic of metal is researched under the consideration of type technique and color of metal used in contemporary fashion. Metals such as gold silver bronze aluminum thin lead and iron are usually used in fashion and those metals are used in various types such a thread fabric board leaf a and cable. Those types of metal as above are applied to the clothing by the techniques of weaving embroidering metal leaf printing or moulding which gives the formative characteristic to the clothing. In color metal has an effect on the colors of surroundings by its smooth and unique luster and its effect of reflection and produces the visual formative characteristic through the effects of contrast. The esthetic will of metal expressed in modern fashion is researched in this study under the facts studied as above. first metal expresses the future oriented esthetic Second metal has the characteristic of attracting the attention Third metal is used as valid techniques to express the artistic formation for clothing escaping from the idea that the clothing is only for wearing. Finally metal is used as an anti-cultural tool of fighting against the existing order or spirit.

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.