This study investigate through the Balin-banchado in the Kookjangdogameuigue how the system of banchado ceremony exchanged during the middle late the Yi dynasty and in the period of introducing Wastern civilization The Balinbanchado is carry a coffin out of the house to the royal mausoleum. The characteristic in the general strucutre share banchado with rites of introduction rites of center and rites of finishing. Balin-banchado varies according to the objects and the times of a state funeral. In comparsion with Karaebanchado there are investigate the general structure cer-emonial arms and ceremonial costumes. The special feature of two banchado varies rites of center among rites of three. in the ceremonial arms aspect the characteristic of two ban-chado differ from the objects and the times. In the ceremonial costumes the peculiarity of two banchado can be divided into the guard costumes and the ceremonial arm costumes. The most formal attire of the guard costumes. were murning dress and yang-kwan-chobok and samo-danryeong In the ceremonial arm costumes the most outstanding was hongkun-hongeui baik-kun-baikeui in two banchado.

The purpose of this study was to review the influence of nylon to Korean clothing and tex-tile industries from 1945 to 1970. To achieve this purpose newspapers magazines adverti-sements and industrial statistics were surve-yed and reviewed. The result showed that nylon products were presented at first by US army in 1945 and diversed through Korean War, The influence of nylon to clothing life were increased by the point of import of nylon in 1954. After the im-port of nylon filaments in the period 1957-1963 the need of consumers lead the mass products of nylon from 1963.

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi(枕草子) \lrcorner$ This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 10000. In this book many kinds of clothing ornament color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name In detail there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Clors 11 Materials Patterns the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in Makur-anosorsi were reflections of the reality of that times. 3. From ancient times japanse Costume was much influenced by Korea. but around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been pre-viosly used in neighboring countries Korea and China But after they were imported to japan some of them were changed to japans hybrids especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan Clothing Colors were used in various ways sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also signifi-cant meaning. This meas that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in japan by the 10th cen-tury. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk This is the reason why $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi \lrcorner$ was the expression of the Royal Court.

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

Yanbian is the area where many Korean-Chinese have settled and have undergone a unique culture. This study is intended to examine the clothing life of Korean-Chinese in Yanbian in the aspects of the cultural marginality and the effects of other cultures. Nowadays they have three kinds of dresses" Han-Bok In-Min-Bok and the western dress. han-Bok is the result of cultural marginal phenomenon so they pre-serve 1920s style which already disappeared in South Korea. In-Min-Bok is the production of Communism which is an 'invention' from the viewpoint of Cultural-Anthropology. However both Han-Bok and In-Min-Bok are gradually disappearing from the daily life. Today it is quite common for us to see a number of people wearing western dresses on the street. In their clothing life the acculturation to the Chinese wasn't traced which may be due to the strong 'National I dentity' of them.

In this study I purpose a new approach to the study of Korean costume history which includes a statistical method used in the prac-tical measurement of excavated Po's and the analysis of their quantitative changes. In the framework used in this study I de-pend on the nineteen variables picked out from the typological and chronological analysis of excavated clothes. The interrelationship of the variables as well as the standard of each part and its deviation in other forms are may main concern. Other methods are also very useful in my thesis: Correlation analysis Regression analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Discrimination analysis Cluster analysis Factor analysis One way analysis of variance. The findings of my study can be summarized as follows: 1. Every type of po has a general tendency to have more broadened sleeves while it does not show any considerable changes in the total length and in the width of armholes. 2. In the Correlation analysis each part of Po's is handled separately accordign to its chronology and type. The Regreesion analysis makes it possible to provide the sizes of miss-ing parts in excavated clothes and the numeri-cal value of each part needed in the pattern making. 3. The Discrimination analysis of the Po's whose types are unknown leads to the con-clusion that Chongsam and Chikryong Po are classified into Chikryong Po whereas Hongui is classified into Jooui In addition I propose discriminational function by which the age classification is possible discovering the variables associated with time change. 4. Five items-Gerneral Park's clothes Taewongun's clothes and three others produced later for the purpose of preserving Korean costume are proved to be in a differ-ent group and hence analyzed separately in the visual grouping of changui which is done after the cluster analysis and the factor analysis. 5. The results of the one way analysis of variance reveal that there is a difference in each part from period: the back width the sleeve length the sleeve width thelean fig-ure the breasttie length the breasttie width outside quesset upper inside quesset lower outside neckband length insideneckband length etc.

The objectives of this study were to classify daily clothing selection motives and to group men into life style types and to examine the differences in daily clothing selection motives according to the life style types. Questionnaire comprised of three sections: 36 Likert type items of life style measure; 29 Likert type items of daily clothing selection motives measure: and 4 demographic variables. Samples were 267 salary men in gheir 20's to 30's in Seoul Korea. The data were analyzed using factor analy-sis cluster analysis one-way ANOVA Dun-can's multiple range test and t-test. 1. Five factors of life style were derived by factor analysis ; F. 1 'appearance oriented' f. 2. 'positive activity' F. 3 'economy oriented': F.4 'active-leisure';F. 5 'contemporary' Four types of life style of men were defined by cluster analysis of the five factors: T. 1'posi-tive activity'; T. 2.'economy interest'; T. 3'contemporary' : T 2'economy interest' T.3'contemporary' ; T. 4 'appearance interest' 2. Four factors of daily clothing selection motives were derived by factor analysis: F.1 'clothing harmony'; F.2 'clothing utility'; F.3 'psychological influence'; F.4 'exogenous situ-ation adaptation 3. There were significant differences in daily clothing selection motives according to the life style types. The types of positive activity economy interest and contemporary had 'clothing utility' motive more than appearance interest type. Economy interest type had 'hpsychological influence' motive more than other three types. Economy interest type and appearance interest type had 'exogenous situ-ation adaptation' motive more than other two types 4. 20's and unmarried men had'psychological influence' motive more than 30's and married. Upper class had 'clothing harmony' and 'ex-ogeneous situation adaptation' motives more than middle and low. Men with less education had ' clothing utility' and 'exogenous situation adaptation' motives more than did more edu-cation.

Wangeja Chulgungdo (The Painting for a Crown Prince's Outgoing for Schooling to Sungkyunkwan) for this study which is held by the Korean university Museum is a kind of documentary paintings which not only have the value of art history but also give a glimpse of the court ceremonies for a Crown Prince. This painting offers various historical clues to understand the procedure for a Crown Prince's official entrance of Sungkyunkwan participants of the ceremony and other ceremony-related items$\ulcorner$Wangseja chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ was the painting drawn for a series of court procedures of Crown Prince Munjo's official en-trance of Sungkynkwan. When he was old enough to begin learning Sohak on March 11. 1817 that is ; he held Heonjakrye(a ceremony for offering drinks to the ancestors) at Munmyo passed Iphakye(a ceremony for en-trance of school) at Myungryundang and received Suharye the next day. $\ulcorner$Wangseja Chulgungdo$\lrcorner$ had the strong char-acteristics of documentary paintings in terms of art history which was intended to leave the historical event of a Crown Prince's entrance. It reflected the traits of documentary painting style in late Chosun Dynasty; a technique that strongly relieved the ceremonial scenes against the background such as mountains and rivers; a painting that not only captured the vivid actions of personalities ar the crucial moment of the ceremony but also depicted the cer-emonial vessels and items very realistically. Authors could confirm the ceremonial think-ing of the traditional society through a Crown Prince's entrance which controlled the details of every part of the performances of the court ceremony.

Clothing is high-involvement products which is closely related with human being both physically and psychologically. It is the prod-uct bought by consumer repeatedly and needs lots of information according to the changing of modes. The comsumer is very sensitive to the advertisement when they purchase the clothing products. Therefore the importance of the advertising is remakably emphasized in these days. According to the qualitative and quantitat-ive growth of advertisement the unique mar-keting strategy must be deviced that is differ-ent from the past. This thesis focuses onthe importance of afection which is more pre-ferred when consumer contacts the advertise-ment. And this study purposes on the provid-ing the basic data to plan effective clothing advertisement by way of analyzing how atti-tude-forming affects the purchase intend of the comsumer. The findings of the study are as follows. 1. Sense-pursuit tendency is strongly ap-peared among the low-age not-married groups. 2. By the factor analysis of consumer re-sponse in each advertisement 5 factors proved to be valid ones 3. There were significant differences be-tween the brand-used and advertisement ex-perienced customers according to the adver-tisement/brand attitudes. 4. There were no significant differences be-tween the application of clothing advertise-ment and demographic character. 5. The affective response more affects on cognitive response and purchase intend in 4 modes of advertisement. 6. From the pathes of the brand-used experi-enced to purchase intend the characteristics showed up in each advertisement.

This paper is to study the characteristics of fabrics dyed with astringent unripe persimmon juice. The cotton silk rayon and nylon fabrics were dyed with astringet unripe persimmon juice. The structures of natural fabrics dyed fabrics and dyed fabrics followed by washing were examined by scanning electron mi-croscopy. Surface reflexibility of VIS trans-mittance of UV VIS and NIR were analyzed. The study conclues as follows: 1. Colour of cotton fabrics dyed with persim-mon juice became darkended as a function of exposing time to sunlight. That colour was chaged after washing. 2. Blocking effect of ultraciolet light and visible ray was increased in all dyed fabrics. Especially dyed cotton fabric blocked UV light perfectly and the blocking effect was still remained after 9 washings. 3. Persimmon juice dyeing produced coating effect to fabrics besides dyeing effect accord-ing to the scanning electron micrographs. In a word the cotton fabric dyed with per-simmon juice has blocking effect of UV light stiffness. Therefore I think persimmon juice dyeing is a very useful textile finishing and ex-pect a wide application of the technique in fu-ture.

Woolen fabrics were manufactured in Korea since the early prehistoric period and were manufactured and used from the period of the three Kingoms and Koryo through the Chosonera. These materials were developed in to woolen fabrics through a tradition of thou-sand years. In Korea the Orient Culture of no-madic tribes and Mesopotamia Culture of stock-farming come together and developed these original woolen fabrics cultures. During the Chosen period woolen goods were frequently manufactured and used. Those re-mains consist of various hats and shoes made up of felt. And the remains which of a kind of woolen fabrics were made from the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. And there were especial woolen goods shops as Choung Po Joun.

The product evaluation and purchasing behavior of US brand jeans have been studied. The intrinsic and extrinsic cues are usually adopted to interpret the purchasing decison making processes. Among extrinsic cues price and brand name have been studied exten-sively but country-of-origin has not been examined in Korea. With the liberalization of retail industry foreign brands are aggressively penetrating in Korean pparel market. Since the penetration of imported apparel has increased tremendously lately the consumer attitude toward foreign produced clothing has great importance. The findings of the study were 1) Price was the most important among extrinsic cues ex-cept quality. Brand name was more important than store and country-of-origin. 2) The country image had significant influence to the preference as apparel production country. 3) The evaluation and willingness to buy of the jeans were greatly influenced by the be-havioral charcteristics of consumer variables. 4) The model to predict the willingness to buy of the jeans has been developed.

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.