Today, we live in the fastly changing society, rapidly developing scientific civilization and repeatly confusing political culture. Therefore, man persuits the emotional rest in "eros" and sympathizes with eroticism. Such an eroticism represents too much in art and costume all over the world. the purpose of this study is to classify the ex-pressive style of eroticism which is the feature of the costume in the first year of 1990's and to analyze its expression meaning. This study will be a basic data of new design development and help predict the costume in the latter half of the yeat. The method of this study was performed by using the literature related to the eroticism and the study of preceeding researchers. To analyze the costume style the its implied meaning being used to express the eroticism of 1990's, the magazines(Elle, Vogue, WWD, Collections etc) and the literatures related to fashion were used. The styles and meaning of eroticism expressed eroticism by using the minimal design which exposes wholly or partly by using a transparent vinyl and a see-through clothing. The sexy style arose from the expression of social rebellion and the exposure of suppressive sex as a psychological repulsion against the older generation. 2) Deshabille style : This style is the conver-sion to the outer garment of an underwear. The excessive exposure which just concerns the inti-mate parts of the body by using the thin cloth or lace for an underwear. This style can be recognized as the beauty destruction and ugly 3) Glamour style : The style is made up of the high-grade cloth such as silk and velvet and expresses the bodily beauty. This style falls into a rebellious culture and comes from the inten-tional expression to escape the modern life which is straight and hard. 4) metallic style : This style uses variously the new material such as vinyl-coating, enamel and represents the eroticism through the original expressions.pressions.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships between demographic and psychological variables and clothing behavior with reference to sex difference in adult and elderly groups. The clothing behavior was measured by Clothing importance, Interest, Conformity, Modesty, Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, Fashion, and Clothing satis-faction. Psychological variables in this study were self-esteem and life-satisfaction, and demographic variables were sex, education, family type, health, and clothing expenditure. The hypotheses set up in this study were as follows : First, a causal relationship will exist between demographic and psychological variables and clothing behavior in both adult and elderly groups. Second, in clothing behavior a main effect will exist between male and female groups and between adult and elderly groups. Third, in clothing behavior and interaction effect will exist between sex and age. The subjects of this study were 496 adult males, 459 elderly males, and 446 elderly females residing in Pusan area. The material used in this study to measure the clothing behavior was a 5-point rating scale with 31 items in 9 sub-areas developed by the author. The data were collected by five investigatiors well trained in interview before-hand. The following conclusions were obtained from the relults and discussions of this study : First, sex, education, and clothing expendi-ture has a causal relationship with clothing behavior in adult group. Females, higher-educated group, and the group with more clothing expenditure reveal higher concern for clothing. In adult group life-satisfaction does not have any causal relationship with clothing behavior in general execpt for clothing satis-to Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, and Clothing satisfaction in the group. Second, in elderly group sex, education, and health significantly contribute to clothing behavior. A cencern for clothing is higher in female, higher-educated group, and the group with higher perception in health. Self-esteem has a causal relationship with Clothing importance, Conformity, Management, and Clothing satisfaction, whereas life-satisfaction has a strong causal relationship with clothing behavior in general. Third, in both adult and elderly groups a sig-nificant sex diference exists in clothing behavior. Females show higher concern for Clothing importance, Interest, Psychological dependence, Aesthetics, Management, and Fashion than males. On the other hand, males reveal higher concern for Conformity and Clothing satisfaction than females. Fourth, a significant interaction effect exists between age and sex, while elderly females show lower concern for Clothing importance, Interest, and Psychological dependence than adult females, elderly males show higher concern for the same sub-areas of clothing behavior than adult males. This signifies the increase of the concern for clothing in elderly males with the decrease of social activities. Fifth, adult female group reveals lower Con-formity in clothing compared with the other groups, which signifies the higher individuality in clothing behavior. On the other hand, the elderly groups show significantly higher Conformity than the adult groups. this signifies the importance of the consideration for the variables other than individuality in clothing behavior for the group.

Recently Southeast Asia has developed, so the world concerns about these regions. Ethnic fashion in 90's is mostly the influence of these regions' folk costume. The purpose of this study is to review aes-thetic aspects of folk costume in Southeast Asia, to investigate the influence on modern fashion and to predict the possibility of Asia fashion's adaption to modern fashion and to help the cre-ation of fashion design. First of all, the folk costume in Southeast Asia is classified drapery style and sarong style. These non-west clothing appeal to modern fashion as the oriental tranditional beauty. Ethnic fashion appeared in 1990's is attempted to be more complex and variable than the pre-vious ethnic fashion. Asian ethnic fashion influenced from folk costume of Southeast Asia is-wholly or party-the style, color, motif from each country's folk costume. And each country's unique art became the motive of the creative design. Specially, Aosai and Quan in Vietnam and sar-ong style in most Southeast Asia are important motives expressing minority's nostalgia. These are expressed in variable ways. Which are harmonized with latest other fashion trend : retro style and naturalism, Layered look, hippie look, unfinished sewing technic and manual technic are used one image matched the folk costume of Southeast Asia which is natural. Another characterstic in Asian ethnic fashion is a multi-ethnic. This harmonizes the different culture between the Orient and the West beyond the age and culture, and combines each folk costume. It is involved that the fashion can develop indivisual country's costumes mixed with her own unique characteristics and the fashion break the traditional concept and disagree with a certain coordinate rule and it indicates that the fashion shows various style, mood, volume and room as well as space. Like this recent Asian ethnic fashion comes to us in a strange favor. The people who are tired of traditional western civilization's outcome will receive a great tastes from the Asian ethnic fashion.

This Paper is intended to analyze color preferences for apparel, and color preferences according to personality types. The subjects are one hundred twenty five female university students majoring in clothing, textile & design. Color stimulus are divided according to season, value and chroma, and personality types are classified into four : introverted, achieving, age-gressive and conservative. Duncan test, factor analysis and descriptive statistics have been applied to data processing. The findings are as follows. In terms of hue preferences, winter colors are most preferred and autumn colors follow. In re-gard to value preferences, low value colors have been found to be preferred and in respect to chroma preferences, low chroma colors have been found to be preferred. Seasonal colors, value and chroma show significant differences at the level of P<.001. In terms of color preferences for apparel fabrics according to personality types, winter colors are most preferred regardless of person-ality types, and autum colors follow. The introverted and the conservative dislike summer colors least and the achieving and the aggress-ive, spring colors. In respect to value preferences, low value colors are preferred irrespective of personality types. The introverted and the achieving dislike high value colors least and the aggressive and the conservative, mid value colors. With regard to chroma preferences, all person-ality types have been found to prefer low chroma colors. They dislike mid chroma color, and high chroma colors are least preferred.

The Purpose of this study was to investigate homology between the Popular music and Fashion of youthful subculture and how the image of popular music have influenced on the 90's fashion. As the result, Korean youthful subculture analized to be different from western youthful subculture. In western countries, the style of youthful subculture groups spread to tricle up as developed themselves but represented tricle down phenomenon in Korea. Because life con-dition of Korean Youthful was different from westerns in everything. The Image of popular music have an influenced on the 90's fashion, it is be classified into the Jazz image, the Country & Western image, the Rock image, and Hip-Hop, Ragge image. 1. The jazz image from Jazz music has come back dandism of the nostalgia mood and intro-duce ethnic sense into fashion. 2. The Country & Western image is reflected in fashion of accessories details, materials and Coordination item. 3. The rock image from Acid Rock and Punk Rock effected the advent of hippie mood fashion, ethnic, ecology, new unisex fashion and Punk fashion trend. 4. The hip-hop, raggae image from Rap and Raggae music showed on fashion of primitive mood's naturism, Sports wear's generalization and dualism. After the 90th, youthful fashion of new gener-ation may be infered constantly on the move toward $\ulcorner Fashion democracy \lrcorner$formation.

Clothing as one of elements of culture has been interwoven with cultural diffusion, and accompanied the most visible change. In this paper, it was focused that the process and the characteristics of western clothing adop-tion of Korea from 1876 to 1945 corelating with cultural diffusion theory. They were analyzed through the change of clothing reformation system by government, school uniform, and social phenomenon. The finding of this paper were as followings; 1. The process of western clothing adoption was forcibly demanded by Japan, therefore influenced by Japan. 2. The clothing reformation which was forced to accept western style was confronted by complex of cultural, psychological and economical resistance. 3. The fashion leaders of this period were Korean students studying abroad, diplomatic officials, members of the armed forces, government officials, students of western educational systemed school, and lady of evangelist. 4. Man adopted western clothing earlier than woman. 5. Western clothing adoption was took precedence in case of formal wear, diplomatic official's attire, military uniform, and school uniform. 6. In this process, we can find 'transculturation' by Malinowski and 'reinter-pretation' by Herskovits. 7. This process was a kind of 'reorientaion'. 8. The change of clothing which was affected by the tradition, for example, robe for the ancestral rites was evolutionary than others. 9. Clothing elements based on mental or internal characteristics like which clothing was hardly changed by compulsion or extortion. 10. The external trends of clothing change during this period were simplicity, utility, and decrease of status symbols.

The purpose of this study were to investigate the conceptual framework of situational vari-ables, and to find out the causal relationships of apparel buying behavior on usage situations and consumer characteristics. Data were collected viaa questionnaire developed on the previous studies from 386 housewives living at Seoul and Pusan, and analyzed by T-test, Factor analysis, and Path analysis. Results indicated that there were significant differences of apparel buying intention on the types of apparel usage situations. The communi-cation situation was found to be composed of Printed Information and Interpersonal Infor-mation, and the buying situation to be composed of Consumer Conditions, such as weather or mood, Shopping Company, Store Atomosphere, Display, and Store Service. The product char-acteristics considered by consumers in apparel buying process were composed of Practically, Fashionability, Brand, and Approval of others. The causal relationships of apparel buying behavior were significantly different on the types of usage situations and the degree of clothing in-volvement.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the Ku which was worn by nomadic tribes which was Khitai, Mongols and Manchus. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were very important clothes that nomadic tribes put on in order to protect them against the cold. The Ku was an outfit for protection against the cold. It was made of ani-mal fur and its style was tight sleeve and long dress. 2. The Ku was worn in all social classes including emperor, nobles and the masses in ancient China and Asia dynasty. After the nomadic tribes estabilished dynasty in China the style of Ku was changed. All kinds of animal fur was used to make the Ku but the volume of fur, kinds and colors were classified severely by their social position. In Khitai dynasty the Ku was worn in same style. But the emperor wore the Ku of silver marten. The noble class wore the Ku of purple, black and blue marten and silver squirrel skin. The masses wore the Ku of the other colors marten, sheep, squirrel and dessert fox skin. In Mongol dynasty, the emperor wore the Ku of purple marten, silver squirrel, silver fox and black fox skin. The nobles wore the Ku of the other colors marten and squirrel. The masses wore the Ku of degraded animal fur. Before the Manchus estabilished the varient races dynasty in China, the rich man preferred the Ku of marten, squirrel, fox, goat furs. But the poorman preferred the Ku of cow, horses, pig, sheep, cat, dog, snake and deer skin. After the manchus conquered the China, the manners of dress were changed. Generally the fur did not appear in right side of garment, but high quality or noble fur appeared outside. Sometimes the inside or outside of Ku was made of silk fabrics and sleeves, neck-band was made of the high quality fur.

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationships between the interest of apparel ad-vertising direct mail(DM) and the consumers' characteristics ; like their marital state, age, educational level, expenses on clothing purchase, and rigidity. Samples were 243 women(24∼35 years of age) in the Seoul, Korea. The data were analyzed using t-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan's multiple range test, and discriminant analysis. The results of the study were the followings. 1. The department store sent out the most ap-parel advertising DM and the most common dis-tribution method was carrying the DM with the newspapers, 2/3 consumers paid attention to the contents of the apparel advertising DM with 'some interests'. 2. Jackets and pants were the most purchased items after seeing the apparel advertising DM. 3. The interest in the contents of the apparel advertising DM varied according to the consumers' marital state ad the expenses on cloth-ing purchase. 4. Rigidity, age, educational level, and the clothing purchase expenses contributed to discriminant the interesting or uninteresting group in DM. The accuracy rate of the predicting the groups by the 4 variables was 60.91%.

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

The purpose of this research is to open new horizon in the plastic art centering the clothings, to examine the characteristics of the clothing style of Surrealism closely which is being lighted up again newly in the recent culture that is in a state of flux, and futher to contribute to the cre-ation of future clothes by analyzing Surrealism once again which is considered to have affected most in the aspects of idea and technique from the era of modernism to the era of post modern-ism, to understand and develop the relation of modern style of paintings and clothing which consist of many complicated and diverse elements. As for the method of research, after analyzing the formation and characteristics of painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism were classified largely into D paysement and Automatism, which were then reviewed. And the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism were compared and analyzed with painting style of Surrealism, for this, fashion of Surrealism dur-ing recent five years from 1990 to 1994, among the fashion from Pr t- -Porter concentrated re-view was made for the ones made public at Paris-London Collections. By the result observed through this research, the trompe-l'oeil double image technique of many clothes created by E. Schiaparelli who was strongly influenced by Surrealism in 1930s were succeeded with its inspiration of Surrealism by the radical fashion designers recently and we were able to know that it is being created again by fresh senses. Followings are the discussions on homogenity of the characteristics of fashion style of Surreal-ism with the painting style of Surrealism Therefore if we analyze the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism, Automatism ex-pression style which takes out only image borrowing the power of unconsciousness, instead of factual transposition, is forming the main cur-rent after 1990s. We can find the fashion style of this Surrealism appear persistently, entirely irrel-evant to the silhouettes of 20th century.

The purpose of this study is to introduce and research the traditional Korean costume collections of Dr. McCune who was born in Pyung-Yang in 1907 and resided until her marriage to George S. McCune in about 1930. Her collections consist of three categories : children's costumes, adults' costumes, access-ories. The characteristics of collections are summorized as follows : 1. Deep wrappings are found at the front part of the top clothing when worn. The front gusset (SUB) has been dramaticaly tilted due to the difference in lengths of the top and bottom parts of the front gusset. 2. Assymetry was one of the principles of decorating Korean costumes. The assymetry were repeated at the GIT and SUB of CHOGORE with patchwork patterns. 3. Primary colors were favored in Korean costume. Hue contrast in color combinations was prefered as well, such as : yellow CHOGORE and purple blue CUFFS, a red SUN pattern matched with green embroidery. 4. Surface patterns were not so popular in Korean costumes, while the most colorful and fabulous patterns were shown through the various embroidery artifacts. Patterns were used as a way of expressing of their desires or longings in Korean costumes. The main themes of the patterns were longevity and happiness. The patterns such as peony, lotus, chrysanthemum, bamboo and bat were implying symbolism at that time. 5. Natural materials were prefered for the garments, Silk and cotton were used as the main materials of the costume collections. Studies of Korean Costume collections owned by international collectors are meaningful to boost the arena of Korean Costumes as well as fill up the vacancy left by lost costume artifacts.

The purpose of this study was that the real clothes is based on the cultural characteristic of the nation and is influenced by the consumers' psychology and desire in their daily lives. At this point, I investigated what was the most desirable clothes for the women in their home and at their office and found out how this aspect was expressed by Donna Karan design. Donna Karan noticed that executive women didn't want to wear such a masculine clothes, so she designed sensual and womanly clothes. She choosed active and comfortable fabric and made silhouette to cover woman's imperfect body. The colors of clothes and accessories were made to coordinate easily. Especially in advertisement she presented a executive New Yorker woman in trust as a symbol of American culture. Now, Donna Karan is one of the most successful fe-male designers and her influence is all over the world.

The objective of the study was to provide fun-damental data on somatotype for elderly women by classifying the somatotype and analyzing the characteristics of their somatotype. The subjects were 368 women ages of 60∼84, they were measured direct anthropometry. In or-der to find out differences among the age groups, the 368 subjects were grouped into two age groups(Group 1 aged 60 to 69, Group 2 ; aged 70 to 84) Data were analyzed using Factor analysis, Cluster analysis, Duncan test and Analysis of variance. The results of this study were as follows. 1. The characteristics of Elderly women's somatotype were bending of the upper-torso, fat-ness of the waist and abdomen, drooping of the bust and shoulder and hip. In addition, height, girth, depth and width items were decreased in their sizes respectively. 2. Through the factor analysis, we extracted 5 factors from anthropometric measurements. Factor components were obesity, height, girth of the leg and arm, length of the upper-torso except the center front length, the center front length, we categorized by 4 clusters using 5 factor scores. And after the cluster analysis using 5 factor scores, 4 clusters were categorized. The characteristics of clusters were as follows. Type 1 was characterized by short, obesity type, and droopy bust. Type 2 was characterized by short and slender type, dropped bust, and bending somatotype from the lateral view. Type 3 was characterized by middle sized and straight somatotype from the lateral view. Type 4 was characterized by tall and obese type from the lateral view.

The present study aims at investigating the style change of the Korean women's traditional costume and analyzing its character in accordance with the social changes during the period from the civilization in 1884 to the present. The design of the tranditional costume which might be formed in the era of the Three Kingdoms had been slowly modified, and the Korean jacket and skirt design was settled in the Chosun period. In the end of the Chosun period, the drastic social changes such as civilization and revolution, together with the introduction of western dresses, affected strongly the traditional costume design. This led to a change from the old dress design to the stylish and practical one because civilized women and high school girls wore the modified costume composed of long jacket and short skirt or western style dresses. In recent years after 1960's Korean women usually wore traditional costumes as ceremonial dresses be-cause the western style dresses replaced the tra-ditional costume in everyday life. After 1970's, however, the A-line silhouette, combined with ornaments, adapted to the traditional costume in order to emphasize women's beauty, thereby resulting in remarkable modification in the tra-ditional costume. In those days, the large pro-duction of various textiles such as nylon and tetron and the appearance of the traditional costume designers played an important role in developing beautiful traditional costume designs and bringing closer together with general public women. These recent design changes might be classified generally by the following three stages ; (1) "the period of settlement" (1965 1975), (2) "the period of maturity" (1976 1985), and (3) "the period of stabilization" (1986 1995). The costume design of each period was discussed and compared in detail according to historical events. From this study, inherent beauty of the Korean traditional costume can be recognized again, and clarified its position as our folkdress. It is also suggested that in future its modification should be achieved continuously in accordance with tra-dition and modern sense.h tra-dition and modern sense.