Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
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Development of Textile Design Using the Formality of Gwamun in the Goryeo Dynasty

고려시대 과문(窠紋)의 조형성을 활용한 텍스타일 디자인 개발

  • Jiyeon Kim (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Jeong-ah Kim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Hannam University)
  • 김지연 (이화여자대학교, 의류산업학과) ;
  • 김정아 (한남대학교, 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2024.10.31
  • Accepted : 2024.11.23
  • Published : 2024.11.30
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Abstract

This study explores the history and defining characteristics of Gwamun during the Goryeo Dynasty and how these elements can be applied to contemporary textile design. Gwamun is a pattern style that features repeated arrangements of various motifs within a defined border. It was particularly popular in Korea during the Goryeo Dynasty and in China during the Song and Yuan Dynasties. The Gwamun styles found in Goryeo relics are categorized based on the shape of the border into three types: Dan-gwamun, which has a round shape; Danhwa-gwamun, characterized by a round flower shape; and Siche-gwamun, which resembles the end of a persimmonstalk. In this study, three pattern types and nine design motifs were derived from the formative characteristics of Gwamun. These motifs were then used to create unit patterns based on the arrangement techniques of Goryeo Dynasty textiles, resulting in a total of 18 unique textile designs. The color palette utilized corresponds to the 2025 trend colors, and each textile pattern was reinterpreted with modern hues and design methods while maintaining traditional forms and values. The developed textile patterns were incorporated into a Cheollik one-piece design using CLO 3D software. This virtual application confirmed the potential for integrating traditional Goryeo Dynasty patterns into new Hanbok designs. Overall, this work provides valuable insights that contribute to the diversification and global expansion of K-fashion.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

이 논문은 2024학년도 한남대학교 학술연구비 지원에 의하여 연구되었음.

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