The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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Exploring phoenix patterns - Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and fashion design expressions -

봉황문양 탐구 - 둔황 막고굴과 패션디자인 표현기법 -

  • Jingyi Zhang (Dept. of Fashion Design, Pukyong National University) ;
  • Myung Hee Lee (Dept. of Fashion Design, Pukyong National University)
  • 장정이 (부경대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 이명희 (부경대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2023.06.27
  • Accepted : 2023.08.19
  • Published : 2023.08.31
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Abstract

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

Keywords

References

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