Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study on the High Content Ceramide Stabilization Formulation with Cyclodextrin

사이클로덱스트린을 함유한 고함량 세라마이드 안정화 제형 연구

  • Ye Ji Kim (COSMAX R&I Center) ;
  • Sang Woo Han (COSMAX R&I Center) ;
  • So Min Lee (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Byungsun Cha (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Hyojin Heo (Department of Applied Biotechnology, Ajou University) ;
  • Sofia Brito (Department of Applied Biotechnology, Ajou University) ;
  • Lei Lei (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Sang Hun Lee (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • You-Yeon Chun (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Ha Hyeon Jo (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Hyung Mook Kim (Global Cosmeceutical Center, Semyung University) ;
  • Byeong-Mun Kwak (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University) ;
  • Bum-Ho Bin (Department of Biological Science, Ajou University)
  • 김예지 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) ;
  • 한상우 (코스맥스(주) R&I center) ;
  • 이소민 (아주대학교 생명과학과) ;
  • 차병선 (아주대학교 생명과학과) ;
  • 허효진 (아주대학교 응용생명공학과) ;
  • ;
  • ;
  • 이상훈 (아주대학교 생명과학과) ;
  • 천유연 (아주대학교 생명과학과) ;
  • 조하현 (아주대학교 생명과학과) ;
  • 김형묵 (세명대학교 화장품임상연구지원센터) ;
  • 곽병문 (아주대학교 생명과학) ;
  • 빈범호 (아주대학교 생명과학과)
  • Received : 2023.03.09
  • Accepted : 2023.06.16
  • Published : 2023.06.30
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Abstract

In this study, we would like to study the stabilization of the high content of ceramide formulation by containing cyclodextrin. Ceramide, which constitutes the intercellular lipid, a human skin barrier, is a very important ingredient in moisturizing maintenance by protecting moisture in the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. However, since ceramide is poorly soluble, even if it is included in the cosmetic formulation, it has a problem that it is slowly gelled or crystallized and deposited over time, making it difficult to containing a high amount of ceramide. Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide connected with glucose molecules and has a cylindrical structure with hydrophilic outer surface and hydrophobic inner surface, which is known to improve the physicochemical properties of drugs such as improving solubility and absorption of poorly soluble drugs. We demonstrated the stability of the formulation containing high amount of ceramide by measuring hardness and observing emulsion drops with polarized microscope. This study also demonstrated that the high-content ceramide formulation containing cyclodextrin has the effect of preventing gelation or crystallization of ceramide, thus having excellent environmental conditions stability and skin moisturization.

본 연구에서는 사이클로덱스트린을 함유하여 고함량 세라마이드 제형 안정화 연구를 하고자 한다. 인체 피부 장벽인 세포간지질을 구성하는 세라마이드는 피부 속 수분을 보호하고 피부 장벽을 강화함으로써 보습유지에 매우 중요한 성분이다. 그러나 세라마이드는 난용성이므로 화장품 제형에 포함되었다 하더라도 서서히 겔화(gelation) 또는 결정화(crystallization)되어 경시적으로 석출되는 치명적인 문제점을 갖고 있어 고함량 처방하는 데 어려움이 있다. 사이클로덱스트린은 글루코오스 분자가 연결된 환형 올리고당으로 그 외부 표면은 친수성이고 내부는 소수성인 원통형 구조를 가지고 있어 난용성 약물의 용해성 개선 및 흡수성의 개선 등 약물의 물리화학적인 성질을 개선시키는 것으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구진은, 사이클로덱스트린을 활용하여 세라마이드 안정화 제형 실험 후 경도 측정 및 편광 현미경 관찰을 통해 세라마이드 석출 여부를 확인하였다. 본 연구 결과 사이클로덱스트린을 함유한 고함량 세라마이드 제형이 세라마이드의 겔화 또는 결정화를 예방하여 석출을 방지하는 효과가 있어 제형 안정성, 환경 조건별 보관 안정성 및 피부 보습력이 우수한 효과가 있다는 것을 확인하였다.

Keywords

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