한국의류학회지 (Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles)

  • 제47권3호
  • /
  • Pages.544-559
  • /
  • 2023
  • /
  • 1225-1151(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2234-0793(eISSN)
한국의류학회 (The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

현대 패션의 DE&I에 대한 비판적 담론분석 -뉴욕타임즈의 인종 기사를 중심으로-

Critical Discourse Analysis of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion in Contemporary Fashion -Analyzing Articles on Race in The New York Times-

  • 이명선 (성균관대학교 의상학과) ;
  • 임은혁 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Myeongseon Yi (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Eunhyuk Yim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 투고 : 2023.02.24
  • 심사 : 2023.05.25
  • 발행 : 2023.06.30
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

Social discourses surrounding diversity, equity, and inclusion (DE&I) in the fashion industry are vital as they extend beyond language and encompass social practices. This study aimed to understand how discourses on DE&I with in the fashion industry are reconstructed and practiced in society. Therefore, this paper analyzed DE&I in the fashion industry, by focusing on the New York Times articles, employing a quantitative research model based on corpus analysis and a qualitative approach through critical discourse analysis. Results of the analysis of textual practice, showed that the New York Times emphasized black individuals as the central discourse and created a critical racial narrative regarding DE&I in the fashion industry characterized by a dichotomy of black vs. white confrontation. Furthermore, results of the discourse practice analysis revealed that the dichotomy of racial confrontation in the New York Times article tended to select the subject of discourse related to racial DE&I in the fashion industry according based on social and historical context. Thirdly, the analytical results of sociocultural practices indicated that the dichotomous racial discourse between black and white, propagated by the New York Times, spread across social media, transforming fashion from an industry to a domain where black individuals struggle for human rights.

키워드

과제정보

이 논문은 박사 학위 논문의 일부임.

참고문헌

  1. Bolsover, G. (2020). Black lives matter discourse on US social media during COVID: Polarised positions enacted in a new event. ArXiv:2009.03619. https://doi.org/10.48550/arXiv.2009.03619
  2. Burns, L. D. (2019). Sustainability and social change in fashion. Fairchild Books.
  3. Carney, N. (2016). All lives matter, but so does race: Black lives matter and the evolving role of social media. Humanity & Society, 40(2), 180-199. https://doi.org/10.1177/0160597616643868
  4. Cavusoglu, L., & Atik, D. (2019, July 11-14). A call for diversity and inclusion: Examining fashion experiences of minority women [Conference session]. Global Fashion Management Conference, Paris, France. https://doi.org/10.15444/GFMC2019.06.08.02
  5. Chua, J. M. (2019, November 21). Why fashion needs chief diversity officers. Vogue Business Talent. https://www.voguebusiness.com/talent/articles/chief-diversity-officers-inclusion-burberry-gucci-hm/
  6. Cohn, N., & Quealy, K. (2020, June 10). How public opinion has moved on Black lives matter. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2020/06/10/upshot/black-lives-matter-attitudes.html
  7. Dowd, M. (2022, August 26). Edward Enninful also wears Prada. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/08/26/style/edward-enninful-fashion-editor.html
  8. Du Bois, W. E. B. (1903). The souls of black folk: essays and sketches. AC McClurg & Company.
  9. Dunivin, Z. O., Yan, H. Y., Ince, J., & Rojas, F. (2022). Black Lives Matter protests shift public discourse. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 119(10), Article e2117320119. https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.2117320119
  10. Eddy, M., Friedman, V., & de La Merced, M. J. (2022, October 25). Adidas ends partnership with Kanye West at a considerable cost. The New York times. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/25/business/adidas-kanye-west.html
  11. Entwistle, J., Frankling, C., Lee, N., & Walsh, A. (2019). Fashion diversity. Fashion Theory, 23(2), 309-323. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1567065
  12. Fairclough, N. (2001). Critical discourse analysis. In A. McHoul, & M. Rapley (Eds.), How to analyse talk in institutional settings: A casebook of methods (pp. 25-38). Continuum.
  13. Fairclough, N. (2003). Analysing discourse: Textual analysis for social research. Psychology Press.
  14. Foucault, M. (1972). Archaeology of knowledge and the discourse on language (A. M. Seridan Smith, Trans.). Pantheon Books. (Original work published 1969)
  15. Foucault, M. (2003). Abnormal: Lectures at the College de France, 1974-1975 (Vol. 2). Macmillan.
  16. Friedman, V. (2019, June 12). The resurrection of Dolce & Gabbana. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/12/fashion/dolce-gabbana-resurrection.html
  17. Friedman, V. (2020, February 4). Miuccia Prada will be getting sensitivity training. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/02/04/style/Prada-racism-City-Commission-on-Human-Rights.html
  18. Friedman, V. (2022, November 8). At the Oscars of American fashion, a new generation rises. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/11/08/style/cfda-awards-2022.html
  19. Friedman, V., Tillet, S., Paton, E., Testa, J., & Brown, E. N. (2021, March 4). The fashion world promised more diversity. Here's what we found. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/03/04/style/Black-representation-fashion.html
  20. Gee, J. P. (1999). An introduction to discourse analysis: Theory and method. Routledge.
  21. Genzlinger, N. (2019, July 29). Arthur McGee, fashion designer who broke racial barrier, dies at 86. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2019/07/29/fashion/arthur-mcgee-dead.html#:~:text=McGee%2C%20said%20that%20he%20died,Avenue%2C%20Bloomingdale's%20and%20Bonwit%20Teller.
  22. Gossett, T. F. (1997). Race: The history of an idea in America. Oxford University Press.
  23. Ham, S., & Kim, Y. (2014). Public relations as discourse struggles: An analysis on the construction conflict of power transmission facilities in Miryang-city. Journal of Public Relations Research, 18(1), 276-319. https://doi.org/10.15814/jpr.2014.18.1.276
  24. Harrison, D. A., Price, K. H., & Bell, M. P. (1998). Beyond relational demography: Time and the effects of surface- and deep-level diversity on work group cohesion. Academy of Management Journal, 41(1), 96-107. https://journals.aom.org/doi/abs/10.5465/256901
  25. Hsu, T. (2018, March 29). To avoid more racist hoodies, retailers seek diversity. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/29/business/fast-fashion-diversity.html
  26. Jansen, M. A. (2020). Fashion and the phantasmagoria of modernity: An introduction to decolonial fashion discourse. Fashion Theory, 24(6), 815-836. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2020.1802098
  27. Jeremy, H. (1998). A concise glossary of contemporary literary theory (3rd ed.). Hodder Education Publishers.
  28. Kim, D. J. (2018). Study on racial theories and transformation of passing discourse in the U.S. The Journal of English Cultural Studies, 11(3), 73-94. https://doi.org/10.15732/jecs.11.3.201812.73
  29. Kim, H. G. (2011). An analysis of social media discourse on the agent in the press. The Journal of the Korea Contents Association, 11(6), 242-251. https://doi.org/10.5392/JKCA.2011.11.6.242
  30. Kim, J. H. (2002). Irrational cognitive strategies and stress. Korean Journal of Health Psychology: Health, 7(2), 287-315.
  31. Kollen, T., Kakkuri-Knuuttila, M.-L., & Bendl, R. (2018). An indisputable "holy trinity"? On the moral value of equality, diversity, and inclusion. Equality, Diversity and Inclusion, 37(5), 438-449. https://doi.org/10.1108/EDI-04-2018-0072
  32. Lee, C. J. (1999). Dualistic thinking and post-dualistic thinking: From a point of psychoanalysis. Journal of The Society of Philosophical Studies, 46, 139-167.
  33. Lee, C. S. (2015). 한국 사회의 인종차별적 담화구조: 코퍼스 기반 미디어 비평담화 분석 관점에서 [Racist discourse structure in Korean society: From the perspective of corpus-based media criticism discourse analysis]. Chimmundang.
  34. Lee, E. (2020, December 15). The white issue: Has Anna Wintour's diversity push come too late? The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/24/business/media/anna-wintour-vogue-race.html
  35. Leri, A. (2020). How firms fail at D&I: Inclusion, hegemony, and modest fashion. Journal of Business Anthropology, 9(2), 301-316. https://doi.org/10.22439/jba.v9i2.6126
  36. McKay, P. F., Avery, D. R., & Morris, M. A. (2009). A tale of two climates: Diversity climate from subordinates' and managers' perspectives and their role in store unit sales performance. Personnel Psychology, 62(4), 767-791. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1744-6570.2009.01157.x
  37. Meyersohn, N. (2022, October 25). Kanye West's ugly break-up with Adidas and Gap shows the risks of celebrity partnerships. CNN Business. https://edition.cnn.com/2022/10/25/business/celebrity-brand-partnerships-risk/index.html
  38. Mondal, S. (2021, September 15). Diversity and inclusion: A complete guide for HR professionals. Ideal. https://ideal.com/?s=Diversity+And+Inclusion%3A+A+Complete+Guide+For+HR+Professionals
  39. Oh, S. M., Lee, H. A., Jang, K. S., & Kim, Y. W. (2012). Analyzing discourse competition about the free school meal case in the context of the critical public relations perspective. Korean Journal of Communication Studies, 20(2), 73-103.
  40. Oswick, C. (2010). The social construction of diversity, equality and inclusion: an exploration of academic and public discourses. In G. Healy, G. Kirton, and M. Noon (Eds.), Equality, inequalities and diversity: Contemporary challenges and strategies (pp. 18-36). Palgrave Macmillan.
  41. Oswick, C., & Noon, M. (2014). Discourses of diversity, equality and inclusion: Trenchant formulations or transient fashions? British Journal of Management, 25(1), 23-39. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-8551.2012.00830.x
  42. Park, D. (2017). '개념' 없는 사회를 위한 강의 : 변화를 향한 소수자의 정치전략 [A lecture for a society without 'concepts': Minority political strategies for change]. Owoluibom
  43. Paton, E. (2018, March 19). 'I feel like I am part of a great moment'. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2018/03/19/fashion/african-models-fall-2018-fashion-weeks.html
  44. Pelled, L. H., Eisenhardt, K. M., & Xin, K. R. (1999). Exploring the black box: An analysis of work group diversity, conflict and performance. Administrative Science Quarterly, 44(1), 1-28. https://doi.org/10.2307/2667029
  45. Phillips, N., & Hardy, C. (2002). Discourse analysis: Investigating processes of social construction. Sage Publications.
  46. Rahman, K. (2022, May 19). Support for Black lives matter plummets among African Americans: Poll. Newsweek. https://www.newsweek.com/support-black-lives-matter-plummets-among-african-americans-poll-1708122
  47. Robertson, K. (2021, December 4). Conde Nast knows faded glory is not in style. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/04/business/media/conde-nast-anna-wintour.html
  48. Sabharwal, M. (2014). Is diversity management sufficient? Organizational inclusion to further performance. Public Personnel Management, 43(2), 197-217. https://doi.org/10.1177/0091026014522202
  49. Shin, J. J., Choi, S., Lee, R., Lee, C. W., & Yu, S. (2013). A study of anti-racial discrimination policy: A case study of USA, Canada and Australia (IOM MRTC Research Report Series No. 2013-05), Migration Research and Training Center. https://www.mrtc.re.kr/eng/data/02.php?admin_mode=read&no=176&make=&search=&s_url=
  50. Taylor, C., & Marchi, A. (2018). Corpus approaches to discourse: A critical review. Routledge.
  51. Tillet, S., & Friedman, V. (2020, June 24). It's time to end racism in the fashion industry. But how?. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/24/style/fashion-racism.html
  52. Vadukul, A. (2020, June 12). 'We fascinated them': Shailah Edmonds on a golden era of black models. The New York Times. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/06/12/style/shailah-edmonds-black-model-1970s.html
  53. Van Dijk, T. A. (2015). Critical discourse analysis. The Handbook of Discourse Analysis, 466-485. https://doi.org/10.1002/9781118584194.ch22
  54. Weiss, C. H. (1974). What America's leaders read. Public Opinion Quarterly, 38(1), 1-22. https://doi.org/10.1086/268131
  55. Wodak, R. (2001). What CDA is about: A summary of its history, important concepts and its developments. In R. Wodak, & M. Meyer (Eds.), Methods of critical discourse analysis (pp. 1-14). SAGE Publications.
  56. YW Boston. (2019, March 26). Beyond the DE&I acronym: What are diversity, equity, and inclusion? https://www.ywboston.org/2019/03/beyond-the-acronym-dei/